2ltr cu Aircooled dizzy

[thebeach2008]

hiya does anyoone have any ideas regarding replacing a suspect dizzy its on a cu enging the type with two vac ports, as i think my retard isnt working(no engine speed drop when connecting the retard pipe) im getting bad hesitation as well as a lack of power, you dont seem to be able to buy a replacement for it, just kampers do a bundle that is a 009 i think but you have to remove the electronic ignition, is there a work around if my dizzy is faulty cheers gary

[dugcati]

DONT get a 009 dizzy - they are possibly the worst thing you can do!

GSF and others do replacement single vac units if you find that is dead - you can prove the vac unit by sucking on the pipe and then holding the vacuum there with your tongue - if the mechanism either doesn't move or slowly creeps back the vac unit is dead.

Put a wanted ad up as there will be someone somewhere with a 2.0l dizzy going cheap

[jason k]

whs/\/\/\/\/\/\

do not fit a 009

[BOXY]

I'm getting really paranoid now.

My van has had a 009 dizzie since I bought it 18 months ago. It seems to run ok, has seen +75 mph on the speedo, manages Cornish hills at 40mph plus (except 2nd gear ones), and turns in 16-20 mpg. I've even overtaken other T25s on the A30!

Is the 009 really so bad? I've just timed it up at just over 30' BTDC at 3000 rpm and have done a run from Plymouth to Padstow without the engine melting. I'll fill her up at the weekend and see if the mpg has improved.

Of course if anyone has a dual vac advance dizzie I'll get in line behind Gary for donations. I'd be happy to fit it and see how much better it is than a 009 as long as I get to keep the winner.

[dugcati]

The 009 will work - the problem with them is they are designed as a floor the throttle and rip down the drag strip dizzy - the power curve on them is all wrong for economy everyday driving and as there is no vac advance your stressing the engine/using more fuel because the ignition isnt being advanced enough under low revs but high load - ie grinding up hills in 4th at 30 MPH

[BOXY]

What does the advance curve of the standard ignition look like?

From what I can find on the web it sounds like the 009 dizzies vary a lot due to iffy build quality. I'd be interested to see exactly how mine compares to the standard set-up at every 500 rpm. Maybe I'm lucky and mine isn't too far from where it should be apart from the top end?

I'll keep a look out for a dual vac dizzie because now I want to find out what I'm missing out on.

[thebeach2008]

what do you do regarding the retard and advance pipes if you have the 009 , what do you set the points to, i dont have a 009 but wondered how you would set yours up , worth knowing in case mine dies would be a good temp fix cheers

[dugcati]

Advance curve on an 009 is stepped - just off idle and again at about 2700 rpm.....




- as I said earlier they are kind of designed for a floor it off the lights a drag strip dizzy - they are certainly not meant for dragging a 2 ton T25 about

You only really need the advance pipe if you put a vac on it - that said the bob weights inside the 009 dizzy are still giving the wrong advance curve for the engine! points should be set to standard .16" in old money or .4mm (I think!)

Seriuosly - rather than looking at the pros/cons of 009's EVERYONE here will tell you to bin/ebay/bury/burn/just get rid of the 009 and put on the proper dizzy - even if you post this up on the likes of Volkszone etc they will ALL shout "GET RID OF IT"

Timing on an 009 is usually done at full advance - set up the strobe, fire up the donkey and rev it upto around 3000rpm and set the timing to 30 degrees - if it idles OK and runs at lower revs then well done your part of an elite group - if it wont....... well as said in other words "your trying to use what is essentially a racing dizzy on a street engine" If you put solid lifters,fast cam's high comp pistons, ported heads.... you get the picture

[BOXY]

Hi, the vacuum take off ports are blanked with a short piece of flexi hose and a solid plug. (sawed off shanked bolt). No connections on the dizzie.

I set the points using a dwell meter. From memory I think it was 46 degrees. This actually gave a smaller points gap than the figure in the Haynes manual.

I set the advance at about 32 degrees at 3000 rpm (using a tacho). This was the maximum the advance even if the revs were increased. (Someone has since told me that trusting the plastic timing scale probably isn't that accurate?)

I haven't filled up since I made these adjustments so I'm not sure if the fuel economy has improved or not. The performance doesn't seem to have been affected at all. I need to wind up the idle though because its now settled down so much I can't hear the engine running when I stop at junctions! It sounds like its below 500 rpm.

I'm going to see if I can get hold of a dual vac dizzie to see how much of a difference it makes but I think I can live with the 009 for the moment.

[dugcati]

heheh - as I said earlier....

Timing on an 009 is usually done at full advance - set up the strobe, fire up the donkey and rev it upto around 3000rpm and set the timing to 30 degrees - if it idles OK and runs at lower revs then well done your part of an elite group - if it wont....... well as said in other words "your trying to use what is essentially a racing dizzy on a street engine" If you put solid lifters,fast cam's high comp pistons, ported heads.... you get the picture

[thebeach2008]

nice one im not going to do it just curious, im just getting no response when i replace the retard pipe, ive been setting the timimg using 28btdc at max movement on the timimg marks with vacs off, but when i replace the retard pipe the revs dont drop down and the timimg doesnt drop to 5atdc, i read somewhere that it means the retard diaphram is split, could there be another cause , its also hesitates under load

[dugcati]

Just clarify the retard pipe you mentioned as there are kind of 2 trains of thought on this - you can say you advance the ignition or retard the engine (both the same thing!) - with a dual vac dizzy descriptions can get confusing!

I wouldn't worry about the retard pipe - goes on the back of the dizzy
Just use the advance pipe on the front of the dizzy - you can test the diaphragm by taking off the dizzy cap, pulling the pipe off the carb and then sucking on it and keeping the suction held with your tongue - if the plate in the dizzy moves back then the diaphram is leaking; if the plate in the dizzy doesn't move at all then either the diaphram is knackered or the dizzy is jammed up/wrong in some way

[thebeach2008]

nice one thanks thats the pipe that doesnt slow the engine down when re attached, theone that goes to the rear of the dizzy, it says in haynes timing should be 5 or 6 atdc with hoses on , can you clarify how i should set it up then, im reving until the timing dot stop seperating and adjusting it until they rev at 28btdc where should idle sit in that case are we stilllooking at around 5aftc weather the retard pipe is on or off, when i attach the advance pipe (the front one)my engine speeds up (i read that this means the carbs need setting up, im not sure if my hesitation is timing or carb s, she idle fine but when under load hesitates a lot,i reading conflicting things about setting the timing, if i can get the timing right im hoping to eliminate one problem thanks for the help

[thebeach2008]

was the carb pricey