Heater switch wires ?

[rustydubber]

Hi all,havent had van long,heater didnt work,coud nt turn switch,removed switch today and its been hot and melted switch,
four wires on switch,live is black/red and 3 others go to fan motor,a white a yellow and a yellow/black,really want to make sure
fan motor works before buying new switch,anyone tell me which wires to join to try it,also is this a common t25 fault switch melting,
also there is a factory plug in the centre dash hanging towards gearstick,2 browns a red and a grey/blue,any ideas,havent got a haynes
manual yet cheers,

[CovKid]

Switch tends to take a pounding, the small terminals inside slowly cooked as the heater gradually makes its way to being seized. Thats my take anyway. I freed mine off two years ago but I fear it is only temporary as the fuse will sometimes blow so ultimately will have to fit a brand new switch and motor. In the end, I think thats the best route if you want another trouble-free 20 years use. You can get a temporary reprieve by giving the motor a shot of penetrating fluid but it is by no means a substitute for a total overhaul and refit and certainly not a permanent cure.

Parts are not that much even new, the pain is in stripping out dash to do the job.

[rustydubber]

Thanks for reply,seen new switches on e bay around a tenner,just want to make sure the motor works ok.

[rustydubber]

Thanks for reply,seen new switches on e bay around a tenner,just want to make sure the motor works ok.

[rustydubber]

No one know how to hot wire the heater

[CovKid]

Just taken 5 mins out for you reading manual so soak this lot up. It will clarify what the wires do, which matter to you, and perhaps make it a little easier to grasp what may appear to be cryptic wiring diagrams:

Firstly, go grab your Haynes manual and turn to 12.38 - (wiring diagrams) - its towards the back.

See V2 bottom left? thats your blower motor, and as complicated as yours may seem to be, its just a bigger version of those tiny motors you wired up to a PP3 battery as a kid.

Now, the wire below it is the earth (brown). Most DC motors need power and an earth. Just above the motor there are two other wires that connect to it, but further up there are three that come out of E9 (the fresh air/heater blower switch) - the three wires for the three different speeds. By default the poor motor actually runs full pelt so they added resistors (N23) to slow it down for other speeds.

Basically these are the three speeds and the wires are coloured thus:

1) ge (stands for yellow and motor would be flat out)
2) ge/sw (yellow and black - motor at medium speed) - one resistor now in the circuit, reducing voltage/speed
3) ws (white - motor at slowest speed) - TWO resistors now in the circuit, reducing voltage/speed further.

As long as the motor is earthed, and it should be in situ, apply 12v to the yellow wire first and see if it responds. It should run at full speed, then 12v to yellow & black (slower) and finally white (slowest). Motor could have a bad earth, could be seized, or stone dead but above should help you discover whats going on.

Just WIKI'd this for future reference too. https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... _Diagnosis

[rustydubber]

Excellent,thanks for taking time to research/type that out for me,wife got me a haynes last week but its for Aircooled t25s
cheers buddy