Right, now I have calmed down a little, here's a little tip I can offer on this absolute "bar-steward" of a job! My Van is a 2.1 DJ Syncro Doka...
Sequence goes a little like this:
Disconnect battery
Disconnect CV joint and let axle hang freely
Remove diff lock actuator (if present) - 2x 7mm bolts, then pull actuator out a little, tap out roll pin that locks the tip of actuator in to shaft, remove actuator. Remove 2x 10mm bolts that secure actuator bracket to gearbox. Remove spacer plate.
Undo lower 15mm headed nut on starter motor.
Remove air filter unit to access upper starter motor nut. Access is very limited here... Undo nut - you may have to wedge a flat-bladed screwdriver against the end of the starter motor bolt; I know I had to!
Now withdraw starter motor bolt with a magnet on the end of an aerial type thingy...
Take a very deep breath...
Now dive under van and wrestle the bugger off - just joking, you have to be very patient here. Pull the starter motor as far forwards as you can. Don't worry about undoing any wires yet, as you can do this when you have motor away from gearbox. You now need to edge the end of the starter past the diff lock shaft. This is very, very tight - a proper squeeze! I find swearing a lot and cursing the dimwit who designed this abortion of a setup normally helps lower the blood pressure... With a little skill, daring and dexterity it will eventually get past the diff lock shaft and you can just squeeze motor out on an angle.
Now undo you electrical connections, and she's out!
Now here's my little tip after looking at the design and shaking my head so much it nearly fell off...
Lock two M10 nuts together on the lower starter motor stud. Withdraw stud and launch in to orbit as this is the cause of mucho grief! Purchase an M10 socket cap (Allen bolt) screw 20 - 25 mm long. Grind a little off the outside diameter of the head of the bolt so that is passes through the starter motor easily and doesn't foul against the side of the motor when you try to refit it.
Now you can refit your new starter motor with a hell of a lot less grief. And in future it will come off so much more easily.
Hope this helps a few of you! Matt
Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
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- keeno
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- Location: St. Agnes, Cornwall
Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
1989 RHD Tristar Syncro
My other ride is a 572 hp DG Wasserboxer powered Oval...
My other ride is a 572 hp DG Wasserboxer powered Oval...
- slobbo
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Re: Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
I find this job a lot easier if you let someone else do it. 

Cheers
Rob.
You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough.
1987 2.9 litre VR6 powered Syncro - Westy wannabe.
My site - My obsession - http://www.aircooledcrazy.com
VW Xmas cards - http://www.ceinwen.co.uk
Rob.
You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough.
1987 2.9 litre VR6 powered Syncro - Westy wannabe.
My site - My obsession - http://www.aircooledcrazy.com
VW Xmas cards - http://www.ceinwen.co.uk
- keeno
- Registered user
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 04 Aug 2009, 08:15
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: St. Agnes, Cornwall
Re: Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
slobbo wrote:I find this job a lot easier if you let someone else do it.
That would be the best tip, without a doubt!

1989 RHD Tristar Syncro
My other ride is a 572 hp DG Wasserboxer powered Oval...
My other ride is a 572 hp DG Wasserboxer powered Oval...
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Re: Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
Its alway harder on a petrol doka due to the engine bay being so high up too.
jed
jed
Re: Syncro Starter Motor Replacement Tip
Doesn't just dropping the front of the gearbox help a lot ??
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Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1