crack in coolant header tank

[sam fodda]

my van was dripping coolant, which i noticed every time i stopped the van, it was coming out onto the fllor below the header tank.
i fiited a new header tank cap as i thought the pressure valve inside may have gone, not filling the top up tank when under pressure, when i did this is noticed 2 small cracks in the top of the header tank.
i started the van and let it run up to temp, coolant is forceing out of the crack and dripping out to the floor, i presume because the pressure is exacping through these cracks that the top up tank is not filling up ( as there is not pressure for the cap valve to open)

my question is, if i replace the header tank with a new one, will i have to re bleed the coolant system or it is just a straight swap.

i would appriciate any feedback as i want to be able to drive the van without worrying about loosing water, cheers all

[collins_sh]

i'd park the van on a downward slope and swap the tanks for new one, this will minimise the bleed you'll have to do later as the header tank will be the high point.

note; when you refill the system move the van and face the van uphill and follow the instructions for bleeding as normal, that are available on this site.

[sam fodda]

thanks for that, so it will defently need re-bleeding then, any ideas as to why the cracks have appaeard?

[tonytech]

I changed the tank on my van. I used a large syringe to empty the tank and I was carefull to keep the pipes upright,
When I refilled the tank I did it slowly and tried to make sure no air bubbles formed.
I didnt need to bleed the system, just kept an eye on the levels for a few days.

Just be sure to buy a Brick works or VW tank, others are poor quality/

T

[collins_sh]

thanks for that, so it will defently need re-bleeding then, any ideas as to why the cracks have appaeard?

you may not need to bleed but it is fairly easy, i actually bleed my van on a steep downward slope contrary to what is described in manuals, its easier this way as the air bubbles make their way to the header tank from the engine pipes. but you should let the air off the top of the rad also.

the crack in the tank is probably down to the plastic getting a little brittle over the 20-30 years since it was installed.

Shane

[Ian Hulley]

you may not need to bleed but it is fairly easy, i actually bleed my van on a steep downward slope contrary to what is described in manuals, its easier this way as the air bubbles make their way to the header tank from the engine pipes. but you should let the air off the top of the rad also.

You'll be getting snotty PM's pointing aout that that's just not physically possible I do exactly the same btw

I fitted a GSF header tank (late WBX system) last night. It took 25 minutes and if done as our friend above says you only need to catch the coolant from the old tank and top up with 1/2 ltr or so.

Oddly the GSF tank (174VG0020) seemed really good quality compared to their earlier poor attempts

Ian.

[collins_sh]

you may not need to bleed but it is fairly easy, i actually bleed my van on a steep downward slope contrary to what is described in manuals, its easier this way as the air bubbles make their way to the header tank from the engine pipes. but you should let the air off the top of the rad also.

You'll be getting snotty PM's pointing aout that that's just not physically possible I do exactly the same btw

I fitted a GSF header tank (late WBX system) last night. It took 25 minutes and if done as our friend above says you only need to catch the coolant from the old tank and top up with 1/2 ltr or so.

Oddly the GSF tank (174VG0020) seemed really good quality compared to their earlier poor attempts

Ian.

ok, i'm more confident when another is doing it that way. there will likely be disagreement by the establishment!!!
another thing to remember is that you should manually 'massage' both the lines either side of the open bleed screw in engine bay (only relevant in pre '85 i think) to get the air outta the hoses, or hoses on one side with the newer set up.
the reason being is the little plastic bleed valve will likely be restricted by gunk gathered over time.
you will hear when just water is coming out of the plastic bleed valve then close it, you'll recognise the feel of hoses that have no air in them.

all performed at 1500-2000 rpm with warmed up engine and you should bleed the van's cooling system in a couple of minutes.

just remember to let air pocket outta the top of the rad aswell by opening the size 13 bleed screw located on top.

[California Dreamin]

I've got two Girling pipe clamps I use for things like this....clamp off the hose pipe close to the tank and the only coolant lost is from the tank. Fit the new tank, top up with a 50/50 mix then release the clamp...no coolant is lost from the engine so no need for any bleeding, really, really simple and no flaffing about!.
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Hose-Pinch ... 8Ta38Ta3b0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin