Cruz wrote:The roller in your video looked rounded on both ends. I find the square ends can sometimes leave a hard line even when you try your hardest not to
Cruz, we have good news and bad news, we checked and we did have some rollers that were rounded at both ends but we have no idea where we got them and we've switched between types with no real probs. Its mostly technique as far as lines are concerned, depending how much pressure you apply at one end rather than the other, and indeed how much you load up the roller and run it off in the tray. If we can clarify where they came from, I'll let you know but most seem to get along fine with straight at one end which is useful when running up to edges. Ten out of ten for observation though
Lastly, well done to bri-on-1 and catflaps - sterling work there. Use G3 to buff out.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
Just to whet your appetite, heres a very cut down version of the prep section. The painting section is in excess of 20 mins alone and the DVD around 45 mins or more (final time not yet known). We cover everything you might need to know plus tips and hints to make the job a lot easier. Hopefully you'll have as much fun watching it as we did making it. This is a low quality version for sample purposes obviously. It also has a subtitle option for the hard of hearing and you get to meet the filler fairy in the full version.....
Hey Covkid, glad to see you are keeping up the good work. Was just looking at the combicolor web site and saw they had posted your youtube vid on there front screen, dont know if you were aware, I expect it has been brought to your attention one way or another.
A few Rustoleum stockists seem to have adopted it Simon (which is cool) and with Rustoleum UK it was kinda tied in with the 80/90 discount I managed to sort with their sales guy - another Simon. The great pity is that its nowhere near as good as the one we've produced (or as funny) but I guess I could link from the You Tube vid to the new one. I had hoped to finish the video with some nicely shot pics of finished vans but time constraints did not allow for that unfortunately. It has taken HOURS and HOURS to E D I T, add notes and subtitles for the deaf but we got there....
Rustoleum and the makers of Vactan have been credited for their assistance. To my knowledge this is the only comprehensive instructional video there is. Plenty of clips around that show nowt but this explains the lot in detail. Applies to any vehicle but features Chickenkoop's camper throughout. Also found an online shop up north that is happy to list the disk and accept orders via credit card or paypal.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
If looking under a microscope, the orange peel effect would look like a mountain range. I understand that sanding the last coat for the final finish, you need to come down to the "valleys", but is this necessary for sanding in between coats?. The reason I ask is that I've been sanding completely flat up to now, but I don't think I'm building up a sufficient thickness of paint as I'm still exposing areas underneath.
My thinking on this now is that for sanding mid-coats, it will be enough to sand just to provide a key as the high and low points don't "build up" with each subsequent coat because the valleys of one coat are filled up by paint from the next. What do others think?
The degree of orange peel is down to several factors including temperature, thinners etc. You don't need it baby smooth between coats - just flatted enough to remove worst and to provide a key.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
You must flat down between coats as this will give you that final smooth coat. If you roller layer after without flatting you'll simply amplify the orange peel - it will NOT miraculously turn into a glass finish just by piling paint on.
The above is from the Wiki which I found in my case to be a bit misleading as I ended up going over board on the mid-coat sanding, literally "flatting back" each time to avoid the risk of "amplifying the orange peel". I think it would be more accurate to say that the sanding mid coats is mainly to provide a key and it is the final "flat" sanding which provides the finish.
Its not misleading. Flatting down is flatting down - it isn't sanding smooth. Besides, only you can see your paint, these judgements become a personal decision based on how good a finish you've got up to then. Its important that people understand the need to knock the high spots off otherwise it will get worse with each layer. As you'll find, no two areas are identical either so theres no hard rule on this. I haven't stated that the paint needs to be perfectly smooth between coats, which would be impractical anyway. The whole point is to get enough layers on (ideally 3 or more) so you can sand smooth on the final coat - if it needs it, but you also have to watch you're not simply building up one giant orange skin.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
Great thread Im gonna give this ago on mine i was going to use matt nato green paint but after reading all about rustoleum im a convert so does anyone have the ral code for rustoleum in a NATO green shade cheers also anyone have any pics of a rustoleum green high top
Is that RAL 9005 by any chance? Looks the same colour I've done my roof.
