Gearbox. How bad can it be

[Vee_Dub]

Earlier today i took the driveshaft off and I could see that 3 of the bolts have broken off flush at the back of the wheel.

Has anyone had the pleasure of trying to remove these from behind, there is not much space to play with.

What did you use? Will i have to try getting to the broken bolts from the front?

Is it likely these broke one at a time over time rather than all at once?

I bought two cv kits and had thought i'd be putting shaft back on early tomorrow. Not to be.

[HarryMann]

Assuming they are broken off almost flush....

You possibly won't get them out with the access you have into the radius arm... though they can be drilled out , see Wiki, but this is best done by someone with experience and of an engineering background.

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Te ... illing_out

You could also try tapping them around and out, with a sharp centre-punch, or similar chisel styled tool.. to get them moving a bit, then use small mole-grips or similar.

If there is enough projecting, yiou might wind them out as above (mole-grips, pliers, etc.. they could come back out easy once started, don't try to wind them through.

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...but you may have to just bite the bullet and dift the shaft back out of the bearings (i.e. undo the big 46mm castle nuit), to get part of intrest onto the bench or into a vice)

This usually happens because they weren't don up very well, or all surfaces cleaned first and all bolts clean, free running and torqued up evenly...

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P.S. Nobody can do but guess without a v.good photo, what can be done in situ, or without a direct eyeball... this is where forum advice is limited.

[syncropaddy]

Undo the 46mm nut and tap the spline shaft out of the bearing housing so you can do this job on a bench. If the shaft wont come out then undo the 4 bolts that hold on the bearing housing and take the whole lot off the vehicle. Should be easy enough if no damage to the shaft has occured.

[Vee_Dub]

These are the bolts i took out



This is the bolt that a thought was missing and when i toook this out it doesnt look like there is much of the tip come off the thread









Looking at the bolts and how much has broken off, you reckon i could get away with trying to drill/punch/extract it in situ or still better off taken it of the van.

Thanks for the advice guys.

[Aidan]

looks like there's enough to get the mole grips on, or weld onto to make big enough to grab with grips or irwins

[syncropaddy]

A right mismatch of bolts there which I would hazard a guess as its why they all came loose

[HarryMann]

A right mismatch of bolts there which I would hazard a guess as its why they all came loose

Yup, this is the result of a right old bodge-up, but they weren't making furniture...

Fit the front UJ of a propshaft like this and it could kill.

[syncropaddy]

A right mismatch of bolts there which I would hazard a guess as its why they all came loose

Come to think of it, I'd be inclined to replace the stub axle as well because those threads look as though they have been through the wars and so the threads in the sub axle could be the same.

[HarryMann]

This isn't uncommon and they generally survive OK from reading the threads (sic!), the bolt shearing at the edge of the flange, rather than within it.

[ghost123uk]

Hi Vee_Dub and all.

Mine went last night

Managed to limp home (4 miles) by getting 2 of the undamaged bolts back in and getting them as tight as I could with a snug fitting screwdriver blade and driving VERY gently.

Ordered some bolts from Brickwerks ( http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=80 )

Question, Vee-Dub, how did you get on getting the sheared ones out ?
(Not sure whether to have a go myself, or book it in to my local T3 friendly guy).

[HarryMann]

When you get all the bits out & cleaned you will need to degrease and deburr, flat-off (surface) both flange faces before bolting back up, to ensure it doesn't happen again. Circa 30 lb-ft in two stages

[ghost123uk]

When you get all the bits out & cleaned you will need to degrease and deburr, flat-off (surface) both flange faces before bolting back up, to ensure it doesn't happen again. Circa 30 lb-ft in two stages

Ta for that bit of advice

Don't really fancy working at the roadside in this weather (it's gone pretty cold here today)
Plus getting sheared bolts out is often a pain.
Might just let the garage do it, and fix an extra computer or 2 to pay for it !

[jed the spread]

Have you had a go? with no pressure on them from them being tight they will probably spin right out really easy.

jed

[HarryMann]

Yup, I've been welding at the roadside today, definitely very damp air today, but hiding underneath with a big board down one side to suppress the UV Quite cosy under there actually...

Jed's got a pint (Oops! maybe a good point as well)

A scriber is a good tool, or try a centre punch and then an 1/8" drill bit up the middle, that might get it turning in sympathy (backing out behind the flange) All depends where they've broken off, if it protrudes at all, min-moles might grab it. A good battery drill or winder saves running a cable out there, and a big bright LED torch - you're away. You just need a few gloves (that orrible black grease), some rag and a bit of wire to tie the shaft outa de way (stick a carrier bag a round it), and a nice warm yoga mat to lie on, soemthing for a pillow headrest, way to go.....

..good as done already

[sandwedge]

Good time to drop the drive shafts, clean inspect the CV joints and regrease new boots if needed, messy job but well worth doing every couple of years IMO.
Will also mean you can fit new fasteners to all the joints, looks like its been fitted with a right mixed bag of fasteners in the past.
Tighten to 45Nm or 33Foot pounds, and as has been said go round twice just to check they are fully nipped up. I mark mine with a paint pen so I know they are all done.