Hi guys
So I finally managed to remove and refit my spigot bearing and had the flywheel machined smooth as it was scored etc.
I have just tried to refit the new clutch and pressure plate but it seems around 4-5mm to thick so I cant tighten the pressure plate against the flywheel.
I was assured by the parts dealer he has supplied the correct clutch kit.
The diameter is fine it is the depth that's the problem I have measured the flywheel face to outside face to be around 24.5mm but the clutch depth including pressure plate face is more like 29-30mm.
Typically I have thrown the old pressure plate out so I cant compare them . . . FOOL!!
Does anyone know what part No. clutch I may need?
My vehicle is a 2ltr air cooled x reg westy.
Thought I was going to get it back on the road today........!!!!!
Jay
Clutching at straws
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Realize
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Clutching at straws
Everything is Connected. 5993 Air Cooled T25 Westy LHD
Re: Clutching at straws
It does say in Wiki always keep your old parts
Have you checked that there are no allignment dowels on the flywheel that havent got a hole to go into and if so are the dowells too big for the holes
When you say its tight is that tight as in solid or tight as in a bit of resistance against the spring fingers
if its solid and no obstructions then get a genuine clutch from VW and send back the cheapo chineese patten part back to the Supplier
Have you checked that there are no allignment dowels on the flywheel that havent got a hole to go into and if so are the dowells too big for the holes
When you say its tight is that tight as in solid or tight as in a bit of resistance against the spring fingers
if its solid and no obstructions then get a genuine clutch from VW and send back the cheapo chineese patten part back to the Supplier
"Old and Slow and Full of Rust"
But Doc's campers' OK
The Madness Hampsters have visited one night too many!!!
But Doc's campers' OK
The Madness Hampsters have visited one night too many!!!
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toomanytoys
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Re: Clutching at straws
Er..
well if you put the friction plate in the flywheel and then put the pressure plate against it, there WILL be a gap between the pressure plate and flywheel... as if there wasnt it would never grip.. the pressure plate needs "preload" against the friction plate to work... the bolts should do up fine, do them a couple of turns each at a time.. need to align the friction plate so the input shaft will go in when refitting box.. cheap tool is available from local motor factors or GSF etc...
What make and part number of clutch kit?
Friction plate correct way round?
well if you put the friction plate in the flywheel and then put the pressure plate against it, there WILL be a gap between the pressure plate and flywheel... as if there wasnt it would never grip.. the pressure plate needs "preload" against the friction plate to work... the bolts should do up fine, do them a couple of turns each at a time.. need to align the friction plate so the input shaft will go in when refitting box.. cheap tool is available from local motor factors or GSF etc...
What make and part number of clutch kit?
Friction plate correct way round?
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Realize
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: 03 Oct 2008, 21:23
- 80-90 Mem No: 5993
- Location: Bedfordshire
Re: Clutching at straws
Hi guys
Ok so it has been a while (15 years) since I have changed a clutch, just me being silly
you were right to many toys all I had to do was tighten the bolts up evenly.
I have got the gearbox back in now too thank god that is a tiring difficult job on your own.
Just got driveshafts to put back in place starter motor and then try and reconnect the clutch hydraulics.
Will I need to bleed the brakes too considering they are on the same reservoir.
I hope it all works properly, I have spent nearly 3 weeks off the road fixing this most of the time waiting for parts or tools.
appreciate all the advice I have got here very useful.
next job heat exchangers, how much of a pig will they be??
cheers Jay
Ok so it has been a while (15 years) since I have changed a clutch, just me being silly
you were right to many toys all I had to do was tighten the bolts up evenly.
I have got the gearbox back in now too thank god that is a tiring difficult job on your own.
Just got driveshafts to put back in place starter motor and then try and reconnect the clutch hydraulics.
Will I need to bleed the brakes too considering they are on the same reservoir.
I hope it all works properly, I have spent nearly 3 weeks off the road fixing this most of the time waiting for parts or tools.
appreciate all the advice I have got here very useful.
next job heat exchangers, how much of a pig will they be??
cheers Jay
Everything is Connected. 5993 Air Cooled T25 Westy LHD
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toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2872
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
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- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Re: Clutching at straws
No need to bleed brakes, unless the res has been so low to cause a prob.. but if fluid is crappy, worth doing...
Heat exchangers.. could go well.. could be an a***..... you'll want to loosly assemble all parts onto engine then fit silencer box, then do up exchangers, then box....
Heat exchangers.. could go well.. could be an a***..... you'll want to loosly assemble all parts onto engine then fit silencer box, then do up exchangers, then box....