Finally bought myself a van - 84' Autosleeper, and it's great.... and thanks to this forum I can hardly wait 'till morning to go and try the fridge again... this time with the engine running !
But... heading out next weekend with the wife and baby (and dogs) so the fridge will be running on Gas (if I can get it lit)...
Two questions - How can I be sure the CO is being vented correctly ? I'm tempted to buy a CO Detector just to be sure.... but secondly how safe is it if the pilot goes out ? I presume it's just like the boiler at home and the gas shuts off straight away...
Can I check all this stuff out ?
Cheers, and thanks for all the great stuff on here...
Fridge Safety
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paulheywood
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Till someone who's more fridge-wise than me comes on answers... keep the windows open, turn off the fridge when in bed and get a few CO indicator strips for peace of mind anyway 
All I can find in the Wiki on friodges is this:-
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... s/lighting
Pizz poor if you ask me
All I can find in the Wiki on friodges is this:-
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... s/lighting
Pizz poor if you ask me
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
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vanjam
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I'm a bit enthusiastic about this cos we once had a tiny fire in our van (not gas related) which made me realise just how careful it's worth being about these things. I realise your concern is CO, but fire and CO are closely related risks.
I think the absolute priority is switching off the gas when you're sleeping. even if yo've established that the flue is fine, I'd still turn off the gas at night because of the combined fire/CO risk.
Can you visually/physically check the flue? If not, can you identify where the flue exits from the side of the van? If you can do the latter, with the fridge running, you should be able to detect an outflow of warm exhaust gas from the flue. You may also be able to view the flame through a vision panel in the fridge. The flame sholud be blue in colour. If the flame is significantly yellow, then there's not enough oxygen getting to it and it wil be producing CO - not a problem of itself if the flue is ok but it means the flame needs more oxygen.
We use our gas-only ancient fridge, we light it when we're static and it does fine, but we turn the gas completely off for sleeping and when we're moving. The stuff in the fridge stays reasonably cool despite the on and off approach. We also keep about 8 of those coolbox ice blocks in our freezer at home and take a coolbox with us when we go.
Even if you're sure about the integrity and connection of the flue, I'd still turn off the gas when you're sleeping in there.
On a related note re gas, have you got a drop-out hole in the place where you're keeping your gas cylinder? This allows leaked gas to exit the van avoiding an explosive build up It's usually a hole in the floor and shold technically be of a diameter capable of venting gas faster than the bottle can produce it.
Having said all this, I hope you enjoy your first weekend!
Cheers
Jim
I think the absolute priority is switching off the gas when you're sleeping. even if yo've established that the flue is fine, I'd still turn off the gas at night because of the combined fire/CO risk.
Can you visually/physically check the flue? If not, can you identify where the flue exits from the side of the van? If you can do the latter, with the fridge running, you should be able to detect an outflow of warm exhaust gas from the flue. You may also be able to view the flame through a vision panel in the fridge. The flame sholud be blue in colour. If the flame is significantly yellow, then there's not enough oxygen getting to it and it wil be producing CO - not a problem of itself if the flue is ok but it means the flame needs more oxygen.
We use our gas-only ancient fridge, we light it when we're static and it does fine, but we turn the gas completely off for sleeping and when we're moving. The stuff in the fridge stays reasonably cool despite the on and off approach. We also keep about 8 of those coolbox ice blocks in our freezer at home and take a coolbox with us when we go.
Even if you're sure about the integrity and connection of the flue, I'd still turn off the gas when you're sleeping in there.
On a related note re gas, have you got a drop-out hole in the place where you're keeping your gas cylinder? This allows leaked gas to exit the van avoiding an explosive build up It's usually a hole in the floor and shold technically be of a diameter capable of venting gas faster than the bottle can produce it.
Having said all this, I hope you enjoy your first weekend!
Cheers
Jim
1985 1900DG wc liesuredrive hitop with small amounts of rust
Re: Fridge Safety
vanjam, (Jim),
What a well written, easily understood reply.
Surely deserves to be wikied?
Thank you.
Mike
What a well written, easily understood reply.
Surely deserves to be wikied?
Thank you.
Mike
Yup, 'tis!
Wikie'd
Wikie'd
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cumbriankeith
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fridges and stuff
Here are some links to useful web pages on fridges:
http://www.vdubs.freeuk.com/fridges.html
http://www.swift-owners-club.com/soc1/tips/fridges.html
Perhaps these could be wiki'd as I have seen this stuff come up many times.
In my opinion if you have the fridge installed correctly with the flue and vents through the outside skin of the camper - and the back of the fridge isolated from the inside (like mine is!) then you should not be concerned about leaving the fridge running on gas 24/7. We certainly do.
http://www.vdubs.freeuk.com/fridges.html
http://www.swift-owners-club.com/soc1/tips/fridges.html
Perhaps these could be wiki'd as I have seen this stuff come up many times.
In my opinion if you have the fridge installed correctly with the flue and vents through the outside skin of the camper - and the back of the fridge isolated from the inside (like mine is!) then you should not be concerned about leaving the fridge running on gas 24/7. We certainly do.
Keith
Membership number 38
Membership number 38
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Louey
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We don't know where you are based paulheywood, if you could add a location to your profile we can point you in the direction of someone who can check it over for you.
First person who springs to mind is member 'headley18 / pete (rustybus), he can be contacted on 0777 151 3944.
First person who springs to mind is member 'headley18 / pete (rustybus), he can be contacted on 0777 151 3944.
Louey
▀▄▀▄▀▄▀▄█▓▒░ Camping is in my blood! ▒▓█▀▄▀▄▀▄▀▄▀
▀▄▀▄▀▄▀▄█▓▒░ Camping is in my blood! ▒▓█▀▄▀▄▀▄▀▄▀
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paulheywood
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Horza
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I'm with kieth, why would you have a fridge installed in your van and then be scared to use it over night? CO (carbon monoxide) will still kill you if you are awake and gas still makes a nasty boom in daylight. If you are unsure of your gas fridge or any other appliance you shouldn't be using it AT ALL!!!!! The Wiki BTW should reflect this, we shouldn't be telling folk that if they think there is something wrong with their gas they are still alright to run it through the day.
The most important thing about gas installs in vehicles is to have them checked by a competent person to ensure safety of the install. If you don't feel you are up to it then find a profesional to do it. Caravan service places should be able to do this or at least point you in the right direction.
Forget passive CO strips BTW. Get a CO alarm, or better yet a combined CO2/Fire alarm. They are not expensive and could be a life saver.
The most important thing about gas installs in vehicles is to have them checked by a competent person to ensure safety of the install. If you don't feel you are up to it then find a profesional to do it. Caravan service places should be able to do this or at least point you in the right direction.
Forget passive CO strips BTW. Get a CO alarm, or better yet a combined CO2/Fire alarm. They are not expensive and could be a life saver.
Euan
Economic migrant, cultural extremist and religious bigot.
Economic migrant, cultural extremist and religious bigot.
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Ivorblueun
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If all is installed properly there should be no problems regular servicing/ checks better still, this said however with all these things a check is only as good as the day it was done and if things do go wrong for piece of mind and for not much cost a CO alarm is a worthwhile investment.
Stu
mine was a blue 89 Td Hitop
mine was a blue 89 Td Hitop
All points noted, I will try to find a few minutes to refelct what everyone has said, and the links provided, in the Wiki asap...
Thankyou all, keep them coming if you feel you have soemthing worthwhile or relevant to add !
Thankyou all, keep them coming if you feel you have soemthing worthwhile or relevant to add !
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
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Mocki
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turning the fridge off at night defeats the object, like Euan said, if its safe use it as it was designed, if its not get it looked at or throw it away!
the idea of turning gas off overnight is silly, its less likely to leak at night and cause a problem than in the day anyway, you dont go lighting burners / fags ect in your sleep do you?
get the whole system checked if you are that unsure
Mark (German is in cov, he may be able to look for you, he's a fridge man by trade iirc
the idea of turning gas off overnight is silly, its less likely to leak at night and cause a problem than in the day anyway, you dont go lighting burners / fags ect in your sleep do you?
get the whole system checked if you are that unsure
Mark (German is in cov, he may be able to look for you, he's a fridge man by trade iirc
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911
________________
1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
tel / txt O7947-137911
________________
1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
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vanjam
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I 'm sorry, didn't want to suggest that properly engineered and inspected installations should be subject to such draconian safety controls but the original question suggests a certain lack of clarity as to the safety of the installation.
I take the point from Mocki, Horza and Keith and agree with it . A properly engineered option is best and ought to provide full confidence. If that option includes the lightweight helical aluminium flue which my admittedly old factory installation did, my confidence in it is reduced, the stuff is not substantial enough to resist wear and movement. With regard to encolsure of the back of the fridge, I also agree. I've recently refitted my interior and have taken particular care to ensure effective fire compartmentation between the back of the fridge and the gas cupboard next door to it and to provide adequate ventilation. I'm just not convinced that I want to take a risk in such a confined and flammable environment when I find that I can keep stuff really nice and cool even when I turn the gas off at night. We experienced a small van fire that arose from two 1.5V AAA batteries shorting out in a drawer, it onyl got the stage of smouldering cotton wool but it was bloody frightening.
When I stripped my old interior out, it was clear that fire protection and ventilation/flue had been conpromised by bodges over the years and I'd rather someone had a warm beer than reaped the whirlwind of a fire or CO incident.
Sorry for not qualifying my comments
Jim
I take the point from Mocki, Horza and Keith and agree with it . A properly engineered option is best and ought to provide full confidence. If that option includes the lightweight helical aluminium flue which my admittedly old factory installation did, my confidence in it is reduced, the stuff is not substantial enough to resist wear and movement. With regard to encolsure of the back of the fridge, I also agree. I've recently refitted my interior and have taken particular care to ensure effective fire compartmentation between the back of the fridge and the gas cupboard next door to it and to provide adequate ventilation. I'm just not convinced that I want to take a risk in such a confined and flammable environment when I find that I can keep stuff really nice and cool even when I turn the gas off at night. We experienced a small van fire that arose from two 1.5V AAA batteries shorting out in a drawer, it onyl got the stage of smouldering cotton wool but it was bloody frightening.
When I stripped my old interior out, it was clear that fire protection and ventilation/flue had been conpromised by bodges over the years and I'd rather someone had a warm beer than reaped the whirlwind of a fire or CO incident.
Sorry for not qualifying my comments
Jim
1985 1900DG wc liesuredrive hitop with small amounts of rust
And warm beer is fine vanjam, its just that Euro-pizz that needs to be chilled to death and curdle your stomach fats - 'cos warm its just tasteless sugar-water
Be safe not sorry - drink warm beer
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
Re: Fridge Safety
Posted this on the camper forum but thought it worth posting here as well.
Just my own experience, not suggesting anyone does this themselves.
juzzietype25,
You asked a 'Quick Q,' but how long have you got for the answer(s)?
I bought a used T25 Autosleeper from the first owner and the fridge (Electrolux 3 way part/ type can't remember at present but the manual is in the van in my garage), which he told me he had never used, was, like the van 13 years old.
It would not work on 12v when stationary, as there was a relay in the circuit, which I now know is normal, to prevent battery depletion.
It would not work on gas, with the electronic ignition on and although clicking was heard when it was activated. The gas was on at the bottle and at the shut off valve in the cupboard next to the gas bottle storage, the gas selector knob was depressed and held for a minute or more, in position 3 if I remember correctly. No joy so fridge out.
Now to remove fridge as fitted in my van. Gas OFF OFF OFF. Battery disconnected and of course no hook up. Remove square metal vent cover on outside of van, (4 screws). Withdraw vent tube , aluminium, push fit, diagonal. Look in the cupboards on each side of the fridge and you should see a couple of self tapping screws which are just wound into the body/carcass/corpse of the fridge! Primitive is it not?
Now the fridge should slide out, part way, bringing with it a snakes wedding, as someone described it, of wiring. Remember mine was three way.
I now undid the piping at the top of the fridge if I recall correctly, pulled the fridge out further, and cleaned out the accumulated crud from the bores of all the plumbing. Seem to remember some sort of inline filter, re connected everything, confirmed gas flow and checked all joints for leaks with soap/washing up liquid and water.
Checked spark at burner when ignition triggered, and fired it up briefly.
Problem was, every time I pushed the fridge back into position, it would not fire up on gas.
Trouble turned out to be a pinhole in the electrical lead from the ignitor to the "spark point" near the burner. When fridge was out of its normal location it would work fine, but the pinhole on the wire aligned with an earth point when fridge was slotted back into its normal place.
I got over this by sleeving the wire with some tubing, and at last all worked perfectly and has done for about five years..
I do hope this may help someone. If it does, please I do not want to two finger type it again. wiki wiki wiki???
Mike
_________________
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Membership Number 1250
Just my own experience, not suggesting anyone does this themselves.
juzzietype25,
You asked a 'Quick Q,' but how long have you got for the answer(s)?
I bought a used T25 Autosleeper from the first owner and the fridge (Electrolux 3 way part/ type can't remember at present but the manual is in the van in my garage), which he told me he had never used, was, like the van 13 years old.
It would not work on 12v when stationary, as there was a relay in the circuit, which I now know is normal, to prevent battery depletion.
It would not work on gas, with the electronic ignition on and although clicking was heard when it was activated. The gas was on at the bottle and at the shut off valve in the cupboard next to the gas bottle storage, the gas selector knob was depressed and held for a minute or more, in position 3 if I remember correctly. No joy so fridge out.
Now to remove fridge as fitted in my van. Gas OFF OFF OFF. Battery disconnected and of course no hook up. Remove square metal vent cover on outside of van, (4 screws). Withdraw vent tube , aluminium, push fit, diagonal. Look in the cupboards on each side of the fridge and you should see a couple of self tapping screws which are just wound into the body/carcass/corpse of the fridge! Primitive is it not?
Now the fridge should slide out, part way, bringing with it a snakes wedding, as someone described it, of wiring. Remember mine was three way.
I now undid the piping at the top of the fridge if I recall correctly, pulled the fridge out further, and cleaned out the accumulated crud from the bores of all the plumbing. Seem to remember some sort of inline filter, re connected everything, confirmed gas flow and checked all joints for leaks with soap/washing up liquid and water.
Checked spark at burner when ignition triggered, and fired it up briefly.
Problem was, every time I pushed the fridge back into position, it would not fire up on gas.
Trouble turned out to be a pinhole in the electrical lead from the ignitor to the "spark point" near the burner. When fridge was out of its normal location it would work fine, but the pinhole on the wire aligned with an earth point when fridge was slotted back into its normal place.
I got over this by sleeving the wire with some tubing, and at last all worked perfectly and has done for about five years..
I do hope this may help someone. If it does, please I do not want to two finger type it again. wiki wiki wiki???
Mike
_________________
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Membership Number 1250