Thankyou for all your kind replies about locating my oil pressure senders ( both working ok) ; It turns out that my oil pressure buzzer/ alarm light is a dash board issue; as a few other lights seen dodgy ( like the glow plug light) I suspect it needs a new circuit board ? is that what its called? or even a new dash unit completely;
Has anyone had this problem? and if so where and what did you start replacing? I would be very grateful for anyones help! Margaret
Buzzer of doom!
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- pocolow
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Re: Buzzer of doom!
Seems we have the same problem..... 

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- VWCamperfan
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Re: Buzzer of doom!
Try cleaning the connector on the back of the instrument cluster. These have been known to play up sometimes! even just giving it a wiggle can cure it! (Or make it worse!).
Mark.
I'm Not A Complete Idiot... Some Bits Are Missing!
1.6 Modified CT engine.
I'm Not A Complete Idiot... Some Bits Are Missing!
1.6 Modified CT engine.
Re: Buzzer of doom!
Some 'Wet or Dry' cut to fit round the of the end of a credit card fits nicely into the female side of the connector
We're doomed!
Re: Buzzer of doom!
Thankyou Mark for your ongoing advice Margaret
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Re: Buzzer of doom!
I would suggest changing your speedo as I did after having the BOD going off for no reason
proved this by going some would say fooishly right arround the top of scotland with it going of only at 2,000 RPM changed the KPH ones for a MPH one and it was gone
proved this by going some would say fooishly right arround the top of scotland with it going of only at 2,000 RPM changed the KPH ones for a MPH one and it was gone
Steve
Late Atlantic
Late Atlantic
Re: Buzzer of doom!
Dear Steve
Thanks for your advice; but it had the speedo changed not long ago... The buzzer is coming on over 2000 revs the alarm is flashing constantly.
If my oil pressure senders are ok and my oil level ok and my engine sounds ok; could it be the oil pump?
Ive checked my dash and all my connections doesnt seem to be a problem
If its the oil pump what sort of a job is this?
Thanks hope you enjoyed yourself in Scotland Margaret
Thanks for your advice; but it had the speedo changed not long ago... The buzzer is coming on over 2000 revs the alarm is flashing constantly.
If my oil pressure senders are ok and my oil level ok and my engine sounds ok; could it be the oil pump?
Ive checked my dash and all my connections doesnt seem to be a problem
If its the oil pump what sort of a job is this?
Thanks hope you enjoyed yourself in Scotland Margaret
- AngeloEvs
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Re: Buzzer of doom!
You said in the first post that both your oil pressure senders checked out ok. Does this mean that you checked the oil pressure sender nearest the water pump is connecting to chassis when the engine is switched on? If it is then you need to check that it continues to read the same when you rev the engine (preferrably with the engine at normal operating temperature). The buzzer sounds if this oil pressure switch 'opens' (no longer connects to chassis)and your engine rpm exceeds 2000. These tests need to be done directly at the switch itself, alternatively, arrange for an oil pressure test to be carried out.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
Re: Buzzer of doom!
Late vans 87 on have the buzzer of doom and this is controlled by 2 oil light switches.
When the ignition is on and the engine is not running one of the switches will be open circuit and the other closed circuit.
When you start the engine the open circuit switch closes (or at least should) and the closed circuit switch opens.
Check this.
Also as mentioned above. The contacts on the back of the dash board to the vehicle loom must be clean.
I have experienced the buzzer of doom going off due to corrosion on the ribbon on the back of the dash.
In my work as a T3 mechanic I clean this area as a matter of course now as it is such a common problem.
Remove the black plastic guard from around the ribbon and give it a scour over with scotch bright pad or a new green pot scourer.
Also check that non of the cables that go to the switch are melted to the exhaust causing a short circuit to the oil light switch circuit.
When the ignition is on and the engine is not running one of the switches will be open circuit and the other closed circuit.
When you start the engine the open circuit switch closes (or at least should) and the closed circuit switch opens.
Check this.
Also as mentioned above. The contacts on the back of the dash board to the vehicle loom must be clean.
I have experienced the buzzer of doom going off due to corrosion on the ribbon on the back of the dash.
In my work as a T3 mechanic I clean this area as a matter of course now as it is such a common problem.
Remove the black plastic guard from around the ribbon and give it a scour over with scotch bright pad or a new green pot scourer.
Also check that non of the cables that go to the switch are melted to the exhaust causing a short circuit to the oil light switch circuit.
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Tim Shettle
07810 320 464
Tim Shettle
07810 320 464