Jacking/Axle Stand Position?

[JCL]

I've just purchased a jack and axle stands (2tonne capability with chocks & a trolley and wrenches on offer in Halford currently for £39.99), intend to change the engine and gearbox oil today. Two questions (haynes and whiki helpful but want clarification before I do some damage!). Warm up engine prior to draining or not? Experienced mechanics always seem to be split down the middle on this one and i admit that I tend not to with my cars anymore. However, I understand that by warming the T25 I will reduce the likelyhood of stripping the sumplug thread.

Secondly, jacking points to raise rear of the van? Haynes says rear axle final drive casings, Im not sure I would recognise them so if in doubt I will hesitate. Axle stands to be positioned at the same points yes??

Many thanks for any advice.

JCL

[CovKid]

Idea of warming oil is it flows better and you're more likely to get more out. You don't need to jack up to drain engine oil but for gearbox you're better off jacking up each rear wheel at a time and then lowering the wheel onto a big thick stout piece of timber - just enough so you can crawl under safely. I keep some sawn up chunks of railway sleeper for jobs like that. A pit is ideal as it keeps vehicle level, but few of us have access to one of those.

[JCL]

Halfords dont stock railway sleepers

Where do you position your timber supports covkid, I may position my stands at the same point you see.

Thanks for the advice.

[syncropaddy]

There are box section cross members where the rear trailing arms mount. These are sound enough for your axle stands to locate. T25s dont have rear axles so you'll be pushed to find the 'rear axle final drive casings' Haynes mention. Position the jack under the normal jacking point and jack away.
As regards your gearbox oil, you might like to read this

[JCL]

Thanks syncropaddy, helpful post.

[pocolow]

I drive the van onto a high kerb on one side and two stout pieces of wood on the other...bingo high,safe, level and cheap