

I know where you're coming from though...
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A severe lack of bad experiences with transmissions
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HarryMann wrote:Andrew, he begged me to sell him the R4, so I complied (ever tried changing a starter on one![]()
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HarryMann wrote:I know where you're coming from though...
Aidan wrote:Interesting, the Van was designed for 100000 miles 160000 km service life , last official service at 150000km, with no gearbox oil change, throw it away buy a T4.
Aidan wrote:service schedule does however state that level should be checked
Aidan wrote:does not need changing for vehicle life 10 years, last scheduled service is 90k miles, 100k throw it away and buy a T4
Note also that the oil and any additives used in production may differ from that available to the consumer
service schedule does however state that level should be checked so if your box weeps at all the level may not be correct and especially because they put less oil in the 2wd petrol box in order to give them an easier gear shift they are prone to running low with disasterous results for the mainshaft bearings and especially the 3rd/4th synchro parts, I can tell you that 80% of third gears have excessive cone and synchro ring wear due to lack of lubrication
note all syncros had 4.5 litres regardless of engine type
note the petrol engined 2wd vans gearbox is tilted more towards the front of the vehicle so the oil level in the differential housing is lower anyway, and then they put less oil in ? Go figure.
VW fit a 4 pinion differential in a 2wd 2.1 van but not in a 2.1 non difflock syncro, again go figure
VW fit a 4 pinion differential in a 2wd 2.1 van but not in a 1.6TD with more torque at lower revs, again go figure
VW fit a 4 pinion locking diff in the gearbox on a syncro but only a 2 pinion one in the front, even on a 16" with difflock where they uprated the front outer CV joints, again go figure
2 pinion front diffs are very prone to internal wear due to the loads on the cvs and the crap access and awkward changing procedure meant they fitted removeable inner boots so you can relube insitu to try and help reduce the wear on the cv joints which is transferred to the output flanges and ultimately the differential, but in practice how may inners get serviced before they fail ? hence the high wear rates seen on front diffs
Can someone who is qualified categorically prove that gearboxes fail because the oil wasn't changed please step forward - and I mean qualified in the subjects of lubricants and gearboxes - and prove me wrong.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/generica ... Id=7010993" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;The stresses placed on your clutch and gearbox are some of the greatest on your bike, making the gearbox oil one of the most important components.
Regardless of the manufacturer’s specifications, ideally you should change gear oil every 6,000 km (just under 4,000 miles). Transmission oils will deplete over time and lose their ability to protect the gear and the clutch. Use only specialist motorcycle or scooter gear oil!
jebiga41 wrote:Can someone who is qualified categorically prove that gearboxes fail because the oil wasn't changed please step forward - and I mean qualified in the subjects of lubricants and gearboxes - and prove me wrong.
Applies to bikes but this is what Castrol say on the subject
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/generica ... Id=7010993" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;The stresses placed on your clutch and gearbox are some of the greatest on your bike, making the gearbox oil one of the most important components.
Regardless of the manufacturer’s specifications, ideally you should change gear oil every 6,000 km (just under 4,000 miles). Transmission oils will deplete over time and lose their ability to protect the gear and the clutch. Use only specialist motorcycle or scooter gear oil!
Aidan what oil do you recommend for a gearbox again?![]()
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