New AAZ installed but getting buzzer of doom! Help!

[ringo]

I've just fitted the engine and it runs and sounds great -but im getting the oil light flashing permanently and the buzzer of doom occasionally.

This happens when idling. (I havent dared do anything else yet).

Disconnecting the leads from the two oil senders makes no difference whatsoever.

Does anyone know of a way to test if its the electrics or the engine causing this fault?

Its happened to me before after leaving the van for a few days - after driving for 20 minutes the light went off so i put it down to a bad connection.....

Thanks

Ringo

[andysimpson]

I've just fitted the engine and it runs and sounds great -but im getting the oil light flashing permanently and the buzzer of doom occasionally.

This happens when idling. (I havent dared do anything else yet).

Disconnecting the leads from the two oil senders makes no difference whatsoever.

Does anyone know of a way to test if its the electrics or the engine causing this fault?

Its happened to me before after leaving the van for a few days - after driving for 20 minutes the light went off so i put it down to a bad connection.....

Thanks

Ringo

Ground the yellow wire, and leave blue off oil light and buzzer should be off. If it has a rev counter is it working?

[ringo]

Thanks Andy,

I'll try that tomorrow.

It hasnt got a rev counter (i wish...).

Ringo

[ringo]

Well, good news. Sort of.

Nothing turns the buzzer off so (following your instructions) im putting it down to an electrical fault.

How the hell do i switch it off? Its undrivable!

Ringo

[windysurfer]

Have you seen this Ringo?

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... fo/dop.htm

[ringo]

Your a legend Gaz! - just what i need

Ringo

Have you seen this Ringo?

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... fo/dop.htm

[Norm Birch]

have exactly the same problem with the aaz thats just gone into my syncro,

am a little unsure of a couple of things though,
1, do the sensors from my old engine (jx) need to be put into the aaz, or will the aaz ones work?

and

2, if i follow the method from the brickwerks link above, will the buzer of doom do it's job when needed, if i do at some point get catastrophic oil pressure drop?

cheers

[ringo]

1. Yes
2. I fitted an oil gauge as the oil light no longer works when you disconnect it.

Ringo

[Norm Birch]

two concise answers,

thanks

[Norm Birch]

no way of having the buzzer working as it should then?

cheers
norm

[ringo]

If you fix the problem that's making the buzzer sound then yes.

My fault turned out ti be a faulty pcb - and I haven't got round to sorting it yet.

Why is your buzzer going off? Any luck finding the problem? Its not always easy to find out.

Ringo

[Norm Birch]

forgive my ignorance here, myself and my mechanic mate (who's done most of the work), have managed all the nuts n bolts bits, even sorted the turbo, n also goten together an uprated clutch assembly - disc, pressure plate and fly wheel from three different vw setups etc....... oil cooler n inter-cooler are coming once everything is working as it should.
but neither of us is too hot with a wiring diagram.

is it realy as simple as this:-

buzzer sounds if - oil pressure (signal from sensor) is less than 1 bar when the engine is revving at a speed of 2000 rpm or more (signal from alternator)...... thank you brickwerks!!

so assuming buzzer (and whatever little brain unit thingy it has) in the dash are working as they were with the old engine, then i must have an incorrect signal from either the oil pressure sensor or the alternator.
in this case most likely the signal from the alternator, as i'm getting the buzzer sounding below 2000 rpm.

have i just dramatically over simplified things???

could anyone tell me which is definitely the correct wire for and how it connects to the alternator(think this bit may have been bodged a bit!) and can the same signal be used to run a rev counter?..... (if i ever get one)
will it help if i use the alternator from my JX engine? should i of done that in the first place?

thanks all for the help
norm.

hang on, brickwerks page on this may have FINALLY made sense to me(my dullness showing through here)(again), so will give all that a try tomorrow,
all advise gratefully received though.
thanks

[ringo]

is it realy as simple as this:-

buzzer sounds if - oil pressure (signal from sensor) is less than 1 bar when the engine is revving at a speed of 2000 rpm or more (signal from alternator)...... thank you brickwerks!!

so assuming buzzer (and whatever little brain unit thingy it has) in the dash are working as they were with the old engine, then i must have an incorrect signal from either the oil pressure sensor or the alternator.
in this case most likely the signal from the alternator, as i'm getting the buzzer sounding below 2000 rpm.

have i just dramatically over simplified things???

Yep - theres also the low pressure sensor which sounds below 0.3bar (i think) below 2000rpms or something like that. Two sensors - one at the end of the cyclinder block and one above the oil filter housing.

could anyone tell me which is definitely the correct wire for and how it connects to the alternator(think this bit may have been bodged a bit!) and can the same signal be used to run a rev counter?..... (if i ever get one)
will it help if i use the alternator from my JX engine? should i of done that in the first place?

I cant remember which wire it is on the AAZ alernator. Its recommended to use the JX one (its not that hard a job to change with a 3/8" socket extension) although i did like the self tensioning setup of the AAZ alternator. However, using the JX one will mean your rev counter will work correctly.

Doesnt the brickwerks info say to ground this to test the buzzer? I cant remember...

Ringo

[rsxsr]

I believe the buzzer ecu needs an rpm signal from somewhere. Without an rpm signal I would think the ecu would be lost as to what to do when. I don't have access to all the nice T25's sold over there, but in the US the only place to get an rpm signal from was the "W" terminal on the back of the alternator. This signal from the alternator is not a conventional analog rev counter output. If you are flybywire, you might be able to get an rpm signal from the ECU as I did. I am only driving my rev counter though. I disabled the dynamic oil buzzer system by permanently grounding it at the cluster. Regards,