I've taken the dash of mine out today to sort some on going wiring niggles. One of these is that the water coolant led flashes, and the level needle goes right over to the right when I start up. However by putting the side or full head lights on the led stops, and even without the lights on, the needle returns to normal after a minute or so. I've read other posts about module 43 and wiring - is there a way to test the module, or do I just replace it as a 'test'?
p.s. if anyone wants photos or descriptions for taking out the dash, and splitting the heater to change a motor, please feel free to ask
Gutted, I need to drill 3 of the 4 bolts for the heater matrix out of the bulkhead tomorrow but am also going to clean up the crowns. Thanks for the reply - did wonder about buying new shiny crowns but couldn't find anyone that stocks them, plus I guess some tlc and the originals should be fine.
but i have thermostat fault as no hot fluid getting to radiator and after bleeding etc .
My camper takes about an hour of normal driving before I get any hot water coming out of the bleed screw, but you dont want to here that now do you! I am too scared to take apart my thermostate housing so have left as is.
2)
Remove the module 43- if the gauge reads normal with it removed then get a replacement. !
when you say normal do you mean the car is warm and is running, the gauge is wrong. you switch off remove module 43 then switch on again and if the gauge is now centre then module 43 is the problem?
The dash is all back in, the heater works a treat, but having cleaned up and checked the earths, and removing the module as mentioned above, I still have the flashing LED. It stops when the lights are turned on though!
Hmmmmmmmm, well, irrespective of the light not flashing when the lights are on, I filled the expansion tank TO THE BRIM (as mentioned in other posts) and the light only flashes for 20 seconds or so, as it should apparently, and then goes out thanks for all who got back to me