Just looked on the GSF website and there seems to be 2 types for a 2.1
20024E SILENCER-BQ T25 2.1 112 BHP Water Cooled 8/85 > 11/90 86.50
or
20024 SILENCER T25 2.1 112 BHP Water Cooled 8/85 > 11/90 59.50
whats the difference other than the price and BQ after the more expensive one?
going to do exhaust and paint job this year
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eatcustard
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Re: going to do exhaust and paint job this year
https://www.penguinjones.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; PM me for your 10% discount
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CovKid
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Re: going to do exhaust and paint job this year
Maybe the 'E' stands for Expensive? 
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pocolow
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Re: going to do exhaust and paint job this year
BQ stands for Best Quality ,and as it suggests it is a better quality silencer(most likely the grade of steel) 
the E probably means the manufacturer..ie Ernst..Mark
the E probably means the manufacturer..ie Ernst..Markthecampervanman.blogspot.co.uk/
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clartsonly
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Re: going to do exhaust and paint job this year
grrr snapped the first bolt with my new stud extractor, a lazer "impact stud extractor" I have a blow torch now to try heat cycles. I have seen drill outs and if I mange to get out any unreachable studs I will get a drill out for the snapped one. at least I know how much a stud can take before it snaps.
the stud extractor is really good but I will try tapping the end of the stud whilst I try to undo them.
the stud extractor is really good but I will try tapping the end of the stud whilst I try to undo them.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
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clartsonly
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Re: going to do exhaust and paint job this year
Well at least I have started making some progress, I have now removed one stud and snapped 5, and two have so little left on them nothing can grip them. I started drilling out one at the front with a "drill around corners drill" I got most of it out and realised I have wasted maybe £100 and about 15 hours. So spent 2 hours taking everything off ready to remove the engine (that at least was enjoyable).
I am removing the rear splash shield with the engine and engine bearer, mainly because it has corroded onto it, will get a hoist and then grind off the engine bearer nuts as they are corroded too.
The thing is now, when the engine is out do I:
1) take the engine to be drill / tapped professionally
and then
2) send off the carb for a service
3) try and get the thermostat housing also removed as it is split by the corroded bolts. I will need a replacement thermostat housing if anyone knows where one is? it is the plastic one.
4) get new tinware
5) what about engine overhaul at the sametime?
6) paint it red
or does this simply make it much more expensive, than it is worth.
I changed the clutch a couple of years ago but could not get to the crank shaft to change that seal, I could maybe try that again.
All of this on my drive as I dont have a garage.
I am removing the rear splash shield with the engine and engine bearer, mainly because it has corroded onto it, will get a hoist and then grind off the engine bearer nuts as they are corroded too.
The thing is now, when the engine is out do I:
1) take the engine to be drill / tapped professionally
and then
2) send off the carb for a service
3) try and get the thermostat housing also removed as it is split by the corroded bolts. I will need a replacement thermostat housing if anyone knows where one is? it is the plastic one.
4) get new tinware
5) what about engine overhaul at the sametime?
6) paint it red
or does this simply make it much more expensive, than it is worth.
I changed the clutch a couple of years ago but could not get to the crank shaft to change that seal, I could maybe try that again.
All of this on my drive as I dont have a garage.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..