Testing oil pump
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
- albertramsbottom
- Trader
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 18 Aug 2008, 08:38
- 80-90 Mem No: 5813
- Location: Lampeter, West Wales
- Contact:
Testing oil pump
Hi
Is there a way I can test a oil pump becuase after 20 mins of driving me engine overheats. Im not sure that the oil pump is working properly or it might be a blocked oil cooler
Cheers
Is there a way I can test a oil pump becuase after 20 mins of driving me engine overheats. Im not sure that the oil pump is working properly or it might be a blocked oil cooler
Cheers
2ltr 1982 Aircooled
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
- CovKid
- Trader
- Posts: 8411
- Joined: 30 Apr 2006, 13:19
- 80-90 Mem No: 3529
- Location: Ralph - Coventry (Retired)
- Contact:
Re: Testing oil pump
....or problem with cooling or timing
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 35
- Joined: 03 Sep 2009, 09:05
- 80-90 Mem No: 7507
- Location: Hereford, Worcester, Chepstow
Re: Testing oil pump
Does the oil warning light work, if so does it come on when the van heats up? What makes you think there may be an issue with the oil pump?
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2872
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Re: Testing oil pump
Overheating........... explain....... how do you know its overheating? temperature gauge?? (you have an Aircooled..)
Engine stops? if it does it will likely be very rattly and smokey after cooling down and "unsiezing"...........
Is the engine just stopping after a certain time?
Has it been set up properly?
You need to give us a much clearer description of whats happening..
"testing the oil pump" is a red herring... if it was low oil pressure it would have siezed solid........
Things to check..
All tinware in place and tinware seal intact and sealing......
Timing set correctly (IIRC 5 deg BTDC vac connected)
Dizzy advance/retard systems working correctly
No intake system leaks...
Carbs set correctly..
Oil cooler clear
thermostat working or in "failsafe" position (if in failsafe position, an Aircooled should never over heat, especially this time of year..)
Engine stops? if it does it will likely be very rattly and smokey after cooling down and "unsiezing"...........
Is the engine just stopping after a certain time?
Has it been set up properly?
You need to give us a much clearer description of whats happening..
"testing the oil pump" is a red herring... if it was low oil pressure it would have siezed solid........
Things to check..
All tinware in place and tinware seal intact and sealing......
Timing set correctly (IIRC 5 deg BTDC vac connected)
Dizzy advance/retard systems working correctly
No intake system leaks...
Carbs set correctly..
Oil cooler clear
thermostat working or in "failsafe" position (if in failsafe position, an Aircooled should never over heat, especially this time of year..)
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 938
- Joined: 13 Nov 2005, 09:35
- 80-90 Mem No: 1959
- Location: aberdare south wales
Re: Testing oil pump
albert, when i saw your van at camperjam there were lumps of tinware missing. have you sourced and fitted em?
98 Westfalia James Cook
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2872
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Re: Testing oil pump
jason k wrote:albert, when i saw your van at camperjam there were lumps of tinware missing. have you sourced and fitted em?
Mmm.. that wont be helping then.. its like driving a watercooled with little water in it.........
- albertramsbottom
- Trader
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 18 Aug 2008, 08:38
- 80-90 Mem No: 5813
- Location: Lampeter, West Wales
- Contact:
Re: Testing oil pump
jason k wrote:albert, when i saw your van at camperjam there were lumps of tinware missing. have you sourced and fitted em?
Sorry guys been on an epic trip driving to the gambia
No I havent sourced them yet but it never happened before and these peices where missing since I brought the thing.
None of the top engine tinware is missing.
How do I know its overheading? Becuase there is so much heat generated the wheels are getting too hot to touch.
The oil light flickers on tick over, so im thinking that the oil pressure is oil, maybe due to the oil cooler being partially blocked, the timing to far advanced (cooking the oil) or blocked oil channel or faulty oil pump.
Where should I start?
Cheers
2ltr 1982 Aircooled
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
- albertramsbottom
- Trader
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 18 Aug 2008, 08:38
- 80-90 Mem No: 5813
- Location: Lampeter, West Wales
- Contact:
Re: Testing oil pump
toomanytoys wrote:Overheating........... explain....... how do you know its overheating? temperature gauge?? (you have an Aircooled..)
Engine stops? if it does it will likely be very rattly and smokey after cooling down and "unsiezing"...........
Is the engine just stopping after a certain time?
Has it been set up properly?
You need to give us a much clearer description of whats happening..
"testing the oil pump" is a red herring... if it was low oil pressure it would have siezed solid........
Things to check..
All tinware in place and tinware seal intact and sealing......
Timing set correctly (IIRC 5 deg BTDC vac connected)
Dizzy advance/retard systems working correctly
No intake system leaks...
Carbs set correctly..
Oil cooler clear
thermostat working or in "failsafe" position (if in failsafe position, an Aircooled should never over heat, especially this time of year..)
Right 3 small under van tinware bits missing (engine bay good and sealed
Timing not sure
Dizzy advance and retard systems working I think but not sure how to test
No intake system leaks (def), new pipes etc
Carbs done by gassure
Oil cooler clean (unlikey so I need to remove the engine)
Thermostate working (dont know but its in the failsafe postion
Cheers
PS slight oil leak from oil cooler grommets
2ltr 1982 Aircooled
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
- VWCamperfan
- Registered user
- Posts: 993
- Joined: 08 Jul 2007, 19:47
- 80-90 Mem No: 4000
- Location: Sheerness, Kent.
Re: Testing oil pump
I don't think your engine is overheating. I think your brakes are binding if what you say is correct about your wheels being too hot to touch. There's no way your engine could generate enough heat to make your wheels so hot you can't touch them without melting all over the road!
Your oil pump is fine. If it wasnt your engine would be siezed by now.
As far as I can remember, there are no parts of the under engine tinware that can be missing without causing a problem. I can't even remember any small bits under there!
The timing would be first thing to check followed by the oil cooler airways.
Also, replace your oil filter if it has not been done recently as this can cause low oil pressure if partly blocked but if the low oil pressure warning lamp is only flickering at idle then that could just be a well used oil pressure switch coming in a bit early or even the idle setting a bit too low.
Your oil pump is fine. If it wasnt your engine would be siezed by now.
As far as I can remember, there are no parts of the under engine tinware that can be missing without causing a problem. I can't even remember any small bits under there!
The timing would be first thing to check followed by the oil cooler airways.
Also, replace your oil filter if it has not been done recently as this can cause low oil pressure if partly blocked but if the low oil pressure warning lamp is only flickering at idle then that could just be a well used oil pressure switch coming in a bit early or even the idle setting a bit too low.
Mark.
I'm Not A Complete Idiot... Some Bits Are Missing!
1.6 Modified CT engine.
I'm Not A Complete Idiot... Some Bits Are Missing!
1.6 Modified CT engine.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 938
- Joined: 13 Nov 2005, 09:35
- 80-90 Mem No: 1959
- Location: aberdare south wales
Re: Testing oil pump
VWCamperfan wrote:As far as I can remember, there are no parts of the under engine tinware that can be missing without causing a problem. I can't even remember any small bits under there!
.
correct!! it all has to be there to work. esp the lower stuff
otherwise the heat is not getting out.
as the other chaps say, get the rest of the tin fitted, check timing but if steve did it im sure its right, and then start looking at brakes, flexis sticking handbrake cables etc.......
98 Westfalia James Cook
- albertramsbottom
- Trader
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 18 Aug 2008, 08:38
- 80-90 Mem No: 5813
- Location: Lampeter, West Wales
- Contact:
Re: Testing oil pump
jason k wrote:VWCamperfan wrote:As far as I can remember, there are no parts of the under engine tinware that can be missing without causing a problem. I can't even remember any small bits under there!
.
correct!! it all has to be there to work. esp the lower stuff
otherwise the heat is not getting out.
as the other chaps say, get the rest of the tin fitted, check timing but if steve did it im sure its right, and then start looking at brakes, flexis sticking handbrake cables etc.......
Ok thanks Jason and everybody else
A bit more info is that it was fine then I had a new head fitted. The carbs where just lifted of and put on the shelf and I told the guys (well recommened on this forum) not to touch them.
One thing to mention here is that the oil light doesnt come on at idle for about 20 mins of driving which kind of tells me that the engine is getting too hot and then the oil is thinning due to the heat.
Its def not the wheels as they spin no probs and if you dip the clutch there is no noticable change in speed.
Cheers
Tinware first
2ltr 1982 Aircooled
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2872
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Re: Testing oil pump
Hold on... there is no way the wheels would be getting too hot to touch from the engine heat... it would mean the amount of heat being given off from the engine would have melted stuff and burnt paint etc... + the engine WOULD be dead......
SO I would be looking more carefully at why they are getting hot.. brakes binding would be the real cause... under normal use the rears generally dont get very warm unless you dive like a loon... or drag the rakes down a big hill...
Does it smoke? either from cold ot when "hot"
are the carbs loose? (air leaks cause a lean mix)
Was the timing "adjusted" after the head was done? (ret\arded timing causes too much heat)
Did they really refit everything and correctly?
What oil is in it?? I'd be using a mineral 20w50, nothing fancy, but also not the £3 cheapo stuff...
I'd suggest getting it up to Steve at Gasure if you can for a thorough service and setup
SO I would be looking more carefully at why they are getting hot.. brakes binding would be the real cause... under normal use the rears generally dont get very warm unless you dive like a loon... or drag the rakes down a big hill...
Does it smoke? either from cold ot when "hot"
are the carbs loose? (air leaks cause a lean mix)
Was the timing "adjusted" after the head was done? (ret\arded timing causes too much heat)
Did they really refit everything and correctly?
What oil is in it?? I'd be using a mineral 20w50, nothing fancy, but also not the £3 cheapo stuff...
I'd suggest getting it up to Steve at Gasure if you can for a thorough service and setup
- albertramsbottom
- Trader
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 18 Aug 2008, 08:38
- 80-90 Mem No: 5813
- Location: Lampeter, West Wales
- Contact:
Re: Testing oil pump
toomanytoys wrote:Hold on... there is no way the wheels would be getting too hot to touch from the engine heat... it would mean the amount of heat being given off from the engine would have melted stuff and burnt paint etc... + the engine WOULD be dead......
SO I would be looking more carefully at why they are getting hot.. brakes binding would be the real cause... under normal use the rears generally dont get very warm unless you dive like a loon... or drag the rakes down a big hill...
Does it smoke? either from cold ot when "hot"
are the carbs loose? (air leaks cause a lean mix)
Was the timing "adjusted" after the head was done? (ret\arded timing causes too much heat)
Did they really refit everything and correctly?
What oil is in it?? I'd be using a mineral 20w50, nothing fancy, but also not the £3 cheapo stuff...
I'd suggest getting it up to Steve at Gasure if you can for a thorough service and setup
Well no not really as the wheels get hot even if I HAVENT DRIVEN THE THING. If I start it amd leave it at idle for about 30 mins the oil light starts to flicker and the wheels are very hot
Cheers
2ltr 1982 Aircooled
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
Street Decals
Vinyl FX Graphics
Design, Creation and application of leading edge vinyl graphics.
Vehicle signage, windows, and decals
http://www.streetdecals.co.uk
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2872
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Re: Testing oil pump
You said after driving it for 20 mins.. now you are saying without driving.... outside in the open air? is the surrounding bodywork getting hot? Lets see pics of the engine bay please...
You know its difficult to diagnose and cure a poss problem via a forum.. we can only suggest things for you to check...
How mechanical are you? can you go through it and check the items suggested??
Jason K said you had tinware missing, you have said you havent sourced them, but in the next line you say there is no tinware missing..... thats confusing.. what parts are missing? or not?? again a nice clear pic or 3 of the engine from top and under neathwould be handy...
You know its difficult to diagnose and cure a poss problem via a forum.. we can only suggest things for you to check...
How mechanical are you? can you go through it and check the items suggested??
Jason K said you had tinware missing, you have said you havent sourced them, but in the next line you say there is no tinware missing..... thats confusing.. what parts are missing? or not?? again a nice clear pic or 3 of the engine from top and under neathwould be handy...