going to do exhaust and paint job this year

[clartsonly]

okay when I say paint job I mean rub off the flowers and animals and creatures and try the "paint my wagon with a roller" for a two tone effect.

can the fibre glass poptop be painted with enamel too?

also exhaust system now I did a search came across JPExhausts who do a kit for £506 ouch. searched brickwerks and that appears to be very similar to the JP exhausts design? are they the same?

I think I will go for a cheaper justkampers one for £306 but I am not 100% sure which one.

it looks like this one?

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25 ... 11610.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the engine is a DF not a DG and aug 1985, the top right J tube doesn't look quite the same as mine I am not sure what that extra bit is?

Also I think I will need to sorn the vehicle as the old exhaust is completely rusted in and therefore my plan for removal is to saw through the j tubes and grind off the heads of the bolts then attempt to carefully drill or easy out or bolt extract the bolts / studs after a good soaking of plus gas. does anyone have extra advice to offer? has anyone used chemical errosion to remove snapped bolts?

I will use the camper once more before the end of the MOT / Road Tax, especially after I have already "regreased" the knocking CV joints which always knock for a while after it has been sitting there in the cold for so long.

[clartsonly]

okay I now have a dremel 300 with cutting discs so tomorrow I am going to start by cutting the exhaust off hopefully leaving enough studs to start penertrating with oil for a few weeks then maybe just maybe I may be able to remove them and replace with new studs within 3 weeks giving myself enough time before I purchase the £300 replacement..

realistically I personnally reckon it will become and engine out and helicoil job, but here I have my fingers crossed.


who wants to bet as soon as I make the first cut our car breaks down!

[eatcustard]

Fiberglass can be painted with Rustoleum.

With the exhaust I am always a little skeptical with JK items, (not always the best of quality)

[kevtherev]

fibre glass can be painted with anything, if it has fibre glass primer on it

[waltraud]

I have recently replaced an exhaust and would say do not waste your money on that JK kit as it will rust through in 4 years again. Instead and for LESS MONEY i would say get yourself a similar designed exhaust as you ahve but the 'J' stle tubes are stainless. Both will set you back £180 from Turbo Thomas and the actual silencer can be had in good quality for another £70-80 quid. You may even gain a few hp but more to the point you will only have to do the job once AND if you ever sell or break the van the Stainless will add value. Tim

[SyncroSwede]

I have just had a full stainless system fitted by the manufacturer as they are local to me. I normally do everything on my van but when I checked out the state of the bolts I caved and paid for 5 hours labour. It actually took most of two days work! (Did ok there then!) It sounds just a little more burbly but not louder and looks awesome.

It's the same system Brickwerks supplies and worth every penny.

[clartsonly]

end of day one, I broke all the weak and feable cutting discs that came with the dremel in a second, have removed the bulk of the knackered exhasut with a £15 angle grinder. so far I have undone two nuts ground off two and need to do the rest tomorrow.

I will check out the turbo thomas approach cheaper is better the JK was the cheapest I have found so far.

[clartsonly]

grrr I need some advice / reassurance

I have the exhaust off now and have left studs length between 8mm and 18mm, I have tried the easiest to reach stud after soaking in 3 in 1 penetrating oil for a couple of days and the tool is just ruining the outside of the stud and not moving it, I dare not put anymore pressue on it.

I have ordered some "plus gas" and need to know if it simply a matter of flooding the studs for a week and then giving it another go, or a different approach. If I snap any of the studs I reckon the engine will need removing anyway so it would be pointless to continue trying to get them out. (this I do not want to do).

Is there any other little techniques has anyone tried that freeze spray or tried tapping it to help the lubricating process, or should I try tightening it a little first?

Also in relation to the final exhaust I am not sure the turbo thomas thing will be suitable, all the ones I have seen are really for show buses / T2's etc and hang out the back of the van, I suppose 4 years of exhaust is what it will have to be, unless anyone has any other suggestions.

[kevtherev]

Heat...

All my studs came out and are now replaced with fresh steel.
Stud extractor or lock two nuts together.
they're not in hard.

I used a pipe wrench, mole grips, lock nuts... etc any thing as long as they're out

Got your nice, zinc plated, shiny new bolts here waiting...

[clartsonly]

so a blowtorch and then let it cool?

there is no way two nuts will fit on any of the ones which are too short, I had to grind off the nuts/bolt tops in order to pull the exhaust free, I will keep trying and maybe need a little more umph, I was pushing so hard earlier it has scraped off some of the engine block where the stud extractor was at a funny angle.

[SyncroSwede]

"I suppose 4 years of exhaust is what it will have to be, unless anyone has any other suggestions."

Yes, Brickwerks stainless exhausts like I posted earlier. Most excellent..

[ghost123uk]

so a blowtorch and then let it cool?

That's what I did on mine, along with PlusGas = it worked for me.

Good luck.

[clartsonly]

a stainless system is too expensive I am afraid.

[kevtherev]

Of course it is..
The standard back box will last longer than the headers any way.
I use GSF for my exhaust parts. I can pick which section I want and they're always on the shelf.

try to copper slip the new bolts into the head.. and use copper or galvanized (not plated) nuts on the union bolts.
then when you have to replace a section it will come apart easy peasy

[clartsonly]

I assume if I am using heat I should be attempting to heat just the stud in order for it to change shape / size enough to break the rust seal, has anyone successfully heated then used the freeze spray to shink the stud and make it loose?