cab heating

[stephen t25]

Hi all, just got back from the shops in my 1982 1.6 ct tin top and i was very cold as i have no heating, does any one know any devices that i can fit to warm things up that don't cost the earth ? THANKS ..

[The Bobdogs]

Sort out your heat exchangers and ducting...! When working right they are great heaters.
Do the control flaps work or have they been stuck in the 'off' position?

[CovKid]

Insulate it - max of £20 to do that. https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... n#p7420035" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[stephen t25]

No control flaps, cables or fan/blower tin ware so was thinking something electric whilst the engine is going... help i'm cold.

[CovKid]

Just wedge the heating permanently on. Case of crawling underneath but do it now. Can't recommend insulation enough though otherwise what little heat there might be will be lost. A mate in a T2 used to have a curtain he pulled across behind both front seats if it got really cold.

[HarryMann]

Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)

http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html

Specifically page 3 http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heatdum.html

[dugcati]

Where in the UK are you? there are a few of us CT lovers on the forum... it's possible one of us maybe nearby to you

[HarryMann]

No control flaps, cables or fan/blower tin ware so was thinking something electric whilst the engine is going... help i'm cold.

You'll be needing a Kw or so to make much difference, that's a 100 Amps !

Most cab heaters are several Kw, spare heat output from engine is several Kw

[CovKid]

A few lessons can be drawn from T2 owners here. Insulation/lagging as I've mentioned makes a big difference. For instance, many T2 owners lagged the central heat transfer pipe from front to back (much being lost here) and lagging all doors and panels keeps a lot of heat in. If flaps are wedged fully open and everything well insulated, technically you should bake in there. I melted some wellingtons in the back of a beetle once.

I covered quick insulation in another thread and most it cost was £30. Last few days have been very cold at night but after about 5 mins running, the van is so toasty I have to back the heater off and turn blower off altogether. I've had air and watercooled vehicles and both can work really well if there are no escape routes for heat other than pipes that supply interior.

My winter tip for defrosting the windscreen is plonk a hot water bottle on the dash way before you go out - hey presto windscreen defrosted

[Damien]

The stuff below is far superior to the standard card pipe for front to rear, my van has no heater control pods and its pretty warm in the front. Will be sorting that issue out and fitting some of this stuff along with insulating the inside to see what improvement it offers. Size might not be right as it was just a quick search.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hydroponics-Insul ... 1c0dd19748" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CovKid]

And if that doesn't work, its long-johns, arctic socks and a bobble hat

[stephen t25]

Got one of these on its way, will post if it is any good..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 285439982&

[CovKid]

Yes do. 300 watts is a fair bit. Wonder how long it'll be before battery is sucked dry whilst parked

Its a 12v fan heater essentially. Would do the job whilst running but think the 90amp alternator is a must. Anyone want to do the calculations?

[CovKid]

25 amps. Thats some draw.

[kevtherev]

propex can supply all the heat you need
blown hot air heating
loads of it.

just cough up the wonga and it's your's.

or eber, my pals got an Aircooled, his ebber runs on the hoof.
This is the 21st century, you should not be cold in your van