split charge help

[hixsy]

hello i got all the stuff in for the split charge, the relay wires etc, upto the relay its chargin at 14v on the side it says to connect to 2nd battery its just reading wat the batteries on 12.8, im pretty sure theres no charge gettin thru. i aint got the no charge wire in yet but wouldnt the charge be coming thru the relay without it anyway ?

can some point me out where the best place to get into the no charge light plz aswell thx

[CovKid]

No it won't. No path for it.

See: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... l#p7421066" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take connection direct from alternator (crimp into small blue wire). Long run yes but its troublesome from dash.

[hixsy]

so if theres no wire connected to the warning light the charge wont come through too second battery ?

[kevtherev]

so if theres no wire connected to the warning light the charge wont come through too second battery ?

no
because it's the trigger

[hixsy]

lol, serves me right for tryin to get out the easy way, connected the wire and it works fine ! thx

[CovKid]

When you think about it, if the two batteries were permanently connected you'd effectively have two batteries in parallel then, and as one went flat, so would the other. The idea of the relay is to only allow a connection when there is actually charging going on and it needs to be able to sense that - hence the trigger. Once charging stops, it is then isolated (relay clicks off) so it can be used on its own for lighting etc without flattening the other. They do both share the same earth, but thats all.

My stereo is also supplied from second battery now as it makes no odds whilst driving but if parked I can have it on without affecting starting battery. Also worth noting that if you pay attention to consumption by using low-energy interor lights etc, there is no reason why you can't use an ordinary battery rather than a proper leisure one, but as I say, be aware of consumption. Even a stereo will flatten a car battery in no time.

[hixsy]

thx for the info kinda makes sense to me now !

im using a car battery now 60AH one, i would ultimately like to get a 90ah and will when i get the cash together. Ive got the chinese voltmeter mod monitoring my starter and will put a switch in so i can monitor both. i just cant believe how cheap it is to put a 2nd battery in, tis sweet !! ive got it setup with its own little 10 way fusebox and will run all me extras thru that and anything i wanna add in the future will go there too.

[Cafnod]

Glad its all worked out for you.
I always put a fuse in the feed from the relay to the second battery too.
If they relay sticks then the wiring loom wont get destroyed with a possible fire risk when starting the van.

[CovKid]

You won't get much better than what you've got there to be honest. i struggled a bit getting 100amp battery cables to terminal connectors but its all in now and very reliable. The consumption side is worth looking at as that way you're not quite so reliant on a mains hookup where many campers are. Other things that can work are rechargable batteries for small electrical items and really I could do with getting into the swing of topping up those too in a more self-sufficient way using wind and sun. A wind-up radio is a great thing to have onboard, likewise wind-up torches but batteries are improving all the time including the newer 'instant charge' variety that we'll see more of in the coming years.

The fuse is definately a good idea although I'll admit I have no fuses either before or after relay. Looking for a nice big screw-down fuse holder for that job.

Get lagging those vans though. Heat retention is becoming more critical as the weeks roll by....

[hixsy]

ok the good news, split charge is working, the bad news, my amps are now picking up the alternator

this is my setup now behind the passenger seats, i have a 2 passenger seat setup. Is that the fuse box you want covkid ?



the ground was on the battery in this picture, but now ive moved it to the frame behind and even tried it to all the seatbelts bolts but im still getting alternator through the amp, do i need to put more grounds of the batteries or run a longer ground as far away from the batteries for the amp?

[Cafnod]

Hi Hixsy have you tried screening the feed wire to the amp?
Hi Ralph vehicle wiring products sell strip fuse holders, or if you are on a budget just buy the strip fuse and make up a holder with a bit of brass studding, some brass flat bar and a few nuts.
If money is really tight you can make strip fuses out of old bear cans.
I had to make up my own busbars cos I couldnt find any suitable ones.

[hixsy]

i have a ground loop isolator, but to be honest the first time i wired it in it made no difference, its was only when i moved the ground from the battery the alternator noise stopped.

Wat is screening the feed wire m8 ?

[Cafnod]

Use screened cable to feed the amp, + & -, sometimes it works.

[Red Westie]

What about a good old suppressor....used to fit dozens to alternators of this era...see pic:
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur ... N%26um%3D1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Martin

[hixsy]

where can i get one of these amazing devices ?