Kit kat wrappers is a reference to a blowing fuse so rolling up the foil from a Kit Kat wrapper
Back in the distant past (the days when radios had valve in and chips came with fish) we had some lengths of 6" nail known as noblows for fault finding.
Stick the noblows in and wait for the smoke, where there was smoke there was a problem.
In my old workshop the Oxford welder had its own 15 amp round pin socket cos the plugs are unfused, easier than having to no blow the whole socket ring.
I dont want to cut holes in the body, so will be running my new battery feed under the van from the battery box and through the bulkhead where the main harness goes. This makes the run much longer to my new fuse box (sited behind glove box) than going across the floor inside. The connections from the relays will be running behind the dash from the brake in point on existing harness and back again.
The question I have is, the length of the harness runs how critical are they to performance.
I took the feed for the relay directly from the fusebox and mounted the relays next to the fuse box. The rest of the wiring was the existing lighting wiring. The fuses I used were the ones left vacated after connecting the lighting wiring to the relays. I couldnt really get my head round why I needed to run a cable direct from the battery when I was getting the voltage I needed straight from the fusebox. Having said that I'm not an electrician so I'm sure someone will be along in a mo to tell us why we should do that.
The mod I did took me about 20 minutes and the difference is amazing
I have done something similar using the fuse box as the supply but made sure its all fused. However the difference is not that good as i have non H4 Lights What are those all about!!
sciroccotune wrote:I have done something similar using the fuse box as the supply but made sure its all fused. However the difference is not that good as i have non H4 Lights What are those all about!!
I guess my next step is get some H4 lights
You can get H4 bulbs that have the original type fitting. I got some Lucas ones, think they were 100/80w
sciroccotune wrote:I have done something similar using the fuse box as the supply but made sure its all fused. However the difference is not that good as i have non H4 Lights What are those all about!!
I guess my next step is get some H4 lights
You can get H4 bulbs that have the original type fitting. I got some Lucas ones, think they were 100/80w
On wings like angels whispers sweet
my heart it feels a broken beat
Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep
Brown eyes are lost afar now sleep xxHayleyxx
Hi Titus. You mentioned your 'rear' battery? Do you have one in the engine compartment for starting and if so where? I've been wondering if the space opposite the first air filter could house a starter battery.
Nick
Thanks Titus, sounds like the opposite side on a WBX so looks like I've a new project. I'm keen to get the starter battery closer to the starter so that I can stop being embarrased by the pitying faces of onlookers when they hear it's wheezing slow turnover! I know I could refurb the starter and will but, still like the thought of being able to use ordinary sized batteries and it'll keep my passenger seat space clear for dirty washing!
Nick
Additional reading on H4 bulbs and headlight relays from Syncro website...
The graph shown below was constructed by Keith Morris (aka CumbrianKeith) and represents Hella's published light intensity output against supply voltage for a typical headlamp bulb. It indicates why a small drop of applied voltage (due to direct switching contacts, bad earths, too thin wire for instance) can result in very poor headlight brightness. Read on...