my first breakdown

[billy739]

next to the coil is there a little black box with 2 round plugs in the bottom , each having 3 wires?

there should be , if there is unplug the connectors(just pull out) they should plug together bypassing the unit.

try this for good measure

the box is an idle stabilisation unit and is a common cause of failure and is commonly bypassed in this way.

[Rincewind]

okey dokey

will make sure everything is pushed on properly when i put on new ones tomorrow.....

thing is it drove to cromer and back without a hitch, and started this a couple of days ago

ignition unit has already been by passed, so we can eliminate that

[ermie571]

ummm - maybe I called it the wrong thing....I had bypassed the idle stabilisation unit....(black box, 2 leads that you joing together) I meant the big plug thing that is bolted to the engine bay with all the wires going into it....on a big metal plate. Is this ignition control unit? That's what we swapped out, and what I keep as a spare in the glove compartment.

Sorry if I confused you. (you'll notice the high level of tech talk above.... )

Em
x

[ermie571]

okey dokey


thing is it drove to cromer and back without a hitch, and started this a couple of days ago

yep - mine got all the way to Derby, then played up on the way to Northants!!! Had been running a while. Pulled into the services for fuel, filled with gas, and got a huge bcakfire as I pulled back onto the dual carriageway. If I hadn't stopped, would it have happened at the same time....he had been running so well, with no indication of impending brokeness!

[Damien]

Backfires are generally overfuelling, either by the ignition system not being up to it, leaky breathers or carb problems. My LH carb sucked up a bit of grot and gave the same troubles you have, i found out by taking off the air filter, cranking the engine over, then have a look at the carbs there shouldn't be any petrol coming out, mine was running out. Took the top off cleaned it out and put it back together and all was well again. Is your fuel filter ok? mine was absolutely black (probably caused by me removing tank to replace brake pipes) and somehow it had been punctured

On a safety note:

If you do take top of carb don't press the throttle with your head over the carb (to see how it works), unlike what i did and ended up with petrol in my eyes, it does smart a fair bit.

[Rincewind]

carbs were rebuilt a couple of months ago and the fuel filters are clear

it also backfired and died on LPG so i was getting the same symtoms on both fuels, though i've only run it on petrol since

could the fuel pump be sticking? #E D I T, can;t be that, otherwise wouldn't happen on LPG

just seems to run fine when it goes for about a mile, then dies.

[Damien]

Only other thing i've had that did anything else similar is a dodgy dizzy cap.

[Rincewind]

will source a new one and rotor arm

onloy other thing i can think of is the ignition amplifier module....short of the the whole distributor failing

[Rincewind]

ok after a phone with Steve at Gasure, i'm trying a new ignition amplifier and or distributor

please see my wanted ads


updates as i get em

[davidvincent]

Hi,

Just to be clear - are you saying that after the breakdown the van has never started since? or you got it started but then it dies again?

Dave

[Rincewind]

basically the van starts when cold, off we toddle

we get about a mile or so and the van dies. If i give the van 5 minutes or so it'll restart and drive a couple of hundred yards or so then dies again.

it does it on LPG and petrol, so i'm guessing its not a fuelling problem, more on the ignition side of things.

coil and new HT lead fitted, no difference, so i've got a new ignition amplifier and distributor coming, see if that helps

[davidvincent]

Oh yeah sorry I didn't see that bit in your first post..... ok, well based on that I'd personally rule out the hall sender for now, from my recent experiences mine went in one hit and wouldn't start again - you can read my saga here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=57374" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; if you have no luck with the spark amplifier etc - there is a good tip on how to test the hall sender in that thread.

Are you getting a whole new distributer or just a new cap? New Dizzy should have the hall sender included, I presume (never bought one).

Have you checked for air leaks? You mentioned the problem occurs once the engine is hot - I'm thinking a split somewhere expanding with heat and either letting too much air in or out? Just an idea.

Good luck with it!

Dave

[Rincewind]

thanks for that david, i've had a good read through.

I'm sort of pinning my hope on the ignition amplifier being up the kyber as the dizzy is blue spot one, so not native to a CU engine. Although having read through i now know what the 3 pin plug i have floating about in the engine is for. This leaves me slightly bemused how to test the hall sensor on this dizzy, but all being well i should have in my grubby mits tomorrow a CU dizzy and loom.

I'll change the amplifier first and start the driving round the block sequence again....

[billy739]

also make sure the ignition wiring earth is nice and clean , it will be near the dizzy somewhere.

[Rincewind]

well after a kind offer from a fellow member on here, Mr Fullsunian, he picked me up a ignition amp and distributor.


so i've changed over the ignition amp, but to no effect, it still dies after running for a short while.

i'm now faced at changing the distributor

the one thats currently on is a blue spot, (DG engine?) so not native to the CU engine.

will it be a straight swop over or are they different? i.e different looms?