i don't fancy taking out the drain plugs, i hear you have to take off the pushrod cover plates and take off the exhaust manifold bolts to access ..
i just want to undo the lower hoses and flush the system after revving up to temp and opening up the thermostat, is that correct?
could anyone point me to a good straightforward way to doing this? i am about to dump a load of comma xtream in there for the winter because it's more water than coolant in there right now.
Pushrod covers plates? exhaust manifold bolts? where did you get that from? and there is no need to run the engine up either....
Just pull hoses and force flush with your domestic hose pipe until everything runs clear.
Martin
On wings like angels whispers sweet
my heart it feels a broken beat
Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep
Brown eyes are lost afar now sleep xxHayleyxx
from the wiki, "Avoid removing cylinder head drain plugs if you can avoid it as to get to them you need to remove the push rod protection plates. These are bolted to the exhaust manifold which will most likely be corroded unless they are under 2 years old, and the exhaust stud will probaly snap off leaving you with a blowing exhaust".
shouldn't you run the engine up to get the thermostat up to temp so it opens, therefore you're pushing water around the block and flushing that out as well?
however i would like it to be as easy as crack a hose and flush.
i don't fancy taking out the drain plugs, i hear you have to take off the pushrod cover plates and take off the exhaust manifold bolts to access ..
i just want to undo the lower hoses and flush the system after revving up to temp and opening up the thermostat, is that correct?
could anyone point me to a good straightforward way to doing this? i am about to dump a load of comma xtream in there for the winter because it's more water than coolant in there right now.
cheers!
That sounds abit worrying...So you want to get it red hot then take a hose off Your heading for a trip to hospital matey and if your planning on flushing it with fresh/ cold water you could end up cracking something too..
IAN
well, just thinking about this now, if the thermostat isn't open, then you're flushing your rad, not the block.
to flush the block you would probably have to stick the hose through the thermostat housing with the thermostat out, or take the water pump out and flush from there. just taking this from experience with other cars.
Done mine recently and took about an hour to do, whilst stone cold i just removed the rad bleed screw then diconnected the two large hoses that run from the rad to the engine ( at the engine end ) then put the bleed screw back in and back flushed through the header tank then blowing into the header tank hard to force the water out till it ran clear, then reconnected all the pipes and filled it up with 16.5 ltrs of premixed blue coolant, then took it for a drive to let the stat open then returned home left it over nite to cool right down befor rechecking the level and filling the header to the brim,
She's now protected to -35 and if it gets that frickin cold i won't be leavin the house anyways
I'm in my own lill world but its ok cos everyone here knows me !
thanks for the reply mate, how do you release your coolant pipes frmo the thermostat housing, is it just worm drive clips and flat head screwdriver or do i need to pull the socket set out?
mine were the pinch together with stilsons type and keep well out of the way when you blow into the header tank as there will be some crap come out of the pipes, just flush and back flush down as many pipes as you can till the water runs clear
I'm in my own lill world but its ok cos everyone here knows me !
i see what you mean about getting some air pressure there for flushing, i did my best flushing out and then put some pre-mixed in, i am up to about 5.5 litres of coolant in there, i just need to top up with a few litres of concentrate!
Nice one fella, once all topped up just run it for ten miles so the stat opens then leave it to cool and check levels then check regularly over then next couple of weeks.
Its not such a bad job to do is it ?
I'm in my own lill world but its ok cos everyone here knows me !
you say blue coolant, that is sounds odd to me, all t3 vw's should run a 50-50 mixed with water g12 coolant which is bright green in colour. g12 is no longer avalible and has been replaced with g12+ which is should be mixed 50-50 with water again and is bright pink.it is still used in vw's today, the reason that you should only use these coolants is becouse the head bolts go through the water jackets and the wrong coolants will rot the studs over time and muller the engine.
i may be wrong but changing the coolant for the right one has got to be cheaper than a new engine?
i would have to ask them if they stock a G12 or an eqliverlent, if you were to go to TPS (vw) or GSF as many people do they would only sell you G12+. it would be worth cheaking out. may be there is some thing on the wiki about this. prevenshion is always better than cure.
Your heading for a trip to hospital matey and if your planning on flushing it with fresh/ cold water you could end up cracking something too..
