water temp question on 2.1 petrol ????

[denis9]

Hi, can anybody help? When driving back from action Sunday night to Portsmouth in my 2.1 water cooled petrol. The temp gauge started to flash after about 50 miles, the gauge was in the middle over the light. So I stopped checked the level behind the number plate which was at max, the tank inside the engine bay is only half full, should this be full to the top? when I started again the light stopped flashing for about 15-20 miles then started again so I stopped and started again and it went out for a few miles but started again so I just stopped and started again. This happened 5-6 times over the end of the journey. I never went over 60mls an hour so I wasn't pushing it. The temp needle never went above halfway the whole journey?

[andisnewsyncro]

The expansion tank, in the engine comartment, should be brim full at cold
The light also functins as a "low coolant level" warning I think, have a search on bleeding the coolant system and work beck from there to the sensors etc.

[Aidan]

sounds like your darlek cap needs replacing it's not holding pressure or allowing reverse top up

[t25darren]

Hi There
Well it must be a common problem as ours did the same last weekend.

If air is in the system the sender can be damaged ! so change it before refilling with antifreeze and bleeding (will save you money) see bottom of page for part number etc.

Here are the fixes though!

1- have you lost water recently or let any air in the system?- If yes the 1st thing you need to do is drain the system and refill as per manual with 50 / 50 mix of water & antifreeze. Be sure to bleed the system as below--

Bleeding-
1 remove top grille
2 remove the air valve (13mm spanner reqd)
3 open the bleed valve on the thermostat in the engine bay (be careful as this is fragile)
4 remove the expansion tank lid (blue screw cap normally)
5 fill the tank with 8 ltrs of antifreeze followed by water (at this stage run engine and get a helper to keep topping expansion tank up until full to top.
6 Rev engine to 2000 rpm until water WITHOUT bubbles runs fron the rad bleed valve at front and then replace the plug.
7 ensure expansion tank is full and replace top.
8 Close bleed valve on thermostat housing and stop the engine.
Almost done now!

Now part 2 (which must be done also)
9 Raise the front of the van 400mm (jack it up or drive it up a big bank)
10 Uuscrew the radiator bleed screw (13mm spanner) again but this time only 3 turns.
11 Undo the thermostat bleed valve again
12 remove the expansion tank lid again and be ready to top up
13 run the engine at 2000 rpm again until water flows from the rad screw (NO air bubbles must be visible)
14 close the rad valve screw (13mm Spanner)
15 top up expansion tank again until full
16 replace expansion tank top
17 close thermostat valve and stop engine.
18 fill the feed tank (the one in the back access via number plate with antifreeze to max level)
19 Run the van until hot-
20 Job Done


If that does not work its the sender to the rear of the thermostat housing that is duff. Part number 93492 from any GSF depot at £5.60!
Remember that you will need to bleed and refill the system after fitting as detailed above. Hope that helps?

Darren

[Aidan]

you don't need to prat around raising the van, put the heater on , run it and just get it to temp so tstat opens, bleed the rad with some revs, lock off, let it cool so you can release the expansion cap then refill at rear with engine running cap off, again a few revs will allow you to 'overfil' , cap on let the revs off then take it for a run up and down a an incline or two then leave to cool down thoroughly then check expansion tank is full and top up top up tank to max with neat coolant. Keep an eye on top up tank for a week and top up as necessary.

[t25darren]

You are correct Aidan but your way does not always work (although it does most of the time). best to do it as VW suggest if you want it right 1ST time!!
That way you do it once and only pay for the antifreeze once!

DARREN

[toomanytoys]

Raising it either end doesnt help much, only of any use when the system is "dry" and filling filling it....
Senders wont be damaged by low water... over temperature will damage them though.. (but if its got that hot, the engine wont be in very good nick either )

As Aidan has said.. ensuring the system is topped up as much as poss and get it heated up, to get a little pressure in the system so the rad bleed screw can be cracked... ensure the "top up" tank is well up before leaving to cool.. repeate this a couple of times over a weeks driving will rid the remaining air from the system..
If you find you have repeated air ingress then there is most likely a leak in the system somewhere.. normally it will suck air back in via that as its easier than overcoming the small vac pressure required in the pressure cap..

[Ian Hulley]

Hi There

Welcome to the club.

Ian

[denis9]

Thanks very much for the help guys, I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers Denis.

[t25darren]

Thanks Ian
Hope to meet you soon?

Darren

[Ian Hulley]

Hope to meet you soon?

Darren

Yep, hope so, we malinger round the club camping scene as much as we can ... perhaps Cromer ? The pleasure will be all mine

Ian

[t25darren]

we need to catch up with you guys from the club, whens the next one we can attend with club 80 90?
We are going to vanfest but were told there was no space on the club stand???

Darren & Suzanne

[Ian Hulley]

we need to catch up with you guys from the club, whens the next one we can attend with club 80 90?

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=56661

It's a classic

[t25darren]

Thanks Ian
We are on the list now (real bonus is its just down the road for us too!!)

See you all there