removing rear hub

Post by **Simon Baxter** » 07 Jul 2006, 09:36

diviy wrote:and also a big hammer and punch to smack back plate in a bit to fit studs

aaaarrrrggh

*Cringe*

Post by **Simon Baxter** » 07 Jul 2006, 09:40

http://www.aumb39.dsl.pipex.com/brickwe ... upport.htm

If you bought them from me, please don't try to return them!

Post by **HarryMann** » 07 Jul 2006, 10:00

Mark the slot on the nut that the split pin was originally in before removal, and tighten back up till the same slot aligns with the hole.

Don't think this is good advice at all either... should torque to 350~360 ft-lbs and then next split-pin hole.

And as for all this BIG hammer stuff, we've already had a recent topic on here with distorted drive-flanges and pulsing brakes... see Wiki.

As Simon says, Eeer! Cringe..

If we're giving advice to hit something very hard, then a few more details about how to support and where to strike with what might be best

Post by **Tex Ritter** » 07 Jul 2006, 20:55

I must have fitted countless number of HGV wheel studs during my working life and the majority of them have been designed to be 'hammered' home.

Why the strange response?

Tex Ritter

Post by **HarryMann** » 07 Jul 2006, 21:34

If thats me you mean then

Think I was referring to:

and also a big hammer and punch to smack back plate in a bit to fit studs

which didn't sound like too sound advice...

..and to be fair, the pulsing brakes and distorted drive-flange were from garage supposedly 'pressing' them in.

Post by **Tex Ritter** » 08 Jul 2006, 12:47

My apolgies HarryMann

I was reffering to the use of a press to fit wheel studs.

I agree that a press is a handy piece of kit, but it is not necessery in every case.

Like in the scenario 'If you have trouble getting the hub off' and you want to fit new studs, pulling the studs in from behind the hub flange, using the method I advised, is common-place (or was in my day) and is very safe when carried out by a capable person.

Ta Ta for now.

Tex Ritter