Hi, it appears me crank oil seal has sprung a leak and now getting plenty of oil dripping from the flywheel when the engine is running. Ive been told i need to remove the engine in order to replace this but was wondering if anyone had any advice and pointers on how to do this smoothly. I can visualise engines and gearboxes carshing to the floor with an almighty bang. Its a T25 1984 CU engine, Aircooled, with a oil puddle underneath. Ive put some stop oil leak stuff which supposibly can slow down these leaks but with no effect.
Cheers
L
Replace Crank Oil Seal
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Replace Crank Oil Seal
Club 80-90 Member 4966
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
Re: Replace Crank Oil Seal
Not sure about an air cooled...
I replaced my diesel one by just removing the gearbox,clutch and flywheel.
Rob.
I replaced my diesel one by just removing the gearbox,clutch and flywheel.
Rob.
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sarran1955
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Re: Replace Crank Oil Seal
Hello!,
Sorry to hear about your oil seal problem, it's been happening in vw aircooleds since the first 1600's, (if that's any consolation).
Yes you will have to have the engine out. This is all very well explained in the Haynes manuals.
A few pointers to make the job easier.
If your engine casing has 2 lifting eyes moulded in (near the engine number at the fan end and behind the carb on the flywheel end), then it is a good idea to use an engine lifting crane. You will need to use 4mm chain and shackles and use (make) a spreader bar , a section of tube longer than the distance between the lifting eyes with holes at either end to pass the chain through. A piece of foam recycled from one of those pool toy batons is good to protect behind the carburettor.
You will use the crane to drop the motor onto a board across the crane base. You will then be able to wheel it easily.
Packer strips to protect the seams of the heat exchangers, or even the rest of the pool toy, are good!
Because the engine and gearbox are attached in a triangular fashion you will have to support the gearbox on a jack, or better,measure from the lowest point of the box( between the drive shafts) to the floor. Subtract 80mm and make up a stout wooden chock to that height. This gives you good clearance and aligns the gearbox nicely for refitting.
Have some flexible wire,(single strand electrical is good), ready so that you will be able to wire the gearbox in place before rolling the motor out,or in case you have to move the van.
You will need a good garage jack. I use a 70 mm hardwood beam with 20 mm spacers at the ends, jacking centrally across the chassis. you will be needing about 700 mm from the floor to the lowest point , the back of the wheel arch.
You will need a clutch alignment tool. If you can get a vw input shaft off another gearbox, makes it easy.
Look very carefully at your clutch and release bearing. Now is the ideal time to replace.
You will have to get the flywheel off. I use a home made long angle iron bar, with lugs welded to fit the clutch bolts to lock the flywheel and a 3/4 inch drive socket /breaker bar/ plus extension tube. Total length 1000mm. I weigh 80 kg and by standing onthe end of this bar I release even the 36 mm early type nut with no effort. Reverse for tightening(!)
The flywheel oil seal is sold apart, order at the same time the oil seal that fits inside the flywheel.
You will have to prise the old seal out,( 2 rounded off medium flat blade screwdrivers are good). DoNT scratch the casing and try to get the seal out cleanly. If all is well, then find a large socket, or tube to fit the inside of the old seal, and use this to drift the new seal in.
Use Hylomar or blue assembly compound to wipe round the edge of the seal.
Tips for assembly:
Make sure that the D bolt and studs are clean, and that the nut spins freely along the thread.
When you are aligning the engine for refitting, make sure that the throttle cable has passed through the front (flywheel) tinware, if necessary undo the 2 screws by N4 cylinder. Clamp it with a mini mole wrench.
I hope this will help. There is always a first time!! My type 2 bay twin cab used to blow its seal every time I thrashed it in third up a gradient with 700 kg. of gravel on board!!
Cordialement,
Sorry to hear about your oil seal problem, it's been happening in vw aircooleds since the first 1600's, (if that's any consolation).
Yes you will have to have the engine out. This is all very well explained in the Haynes manuals.
A few pointers to make the job easier.
If your engine casing has 2 lifting eyes moulded in (near the engine number at the fan end and behind the carb on the flywheel end), then it is a good idea to use an engine lifting crane. You will need to use 4mm chain and shackles and use (make) a spreader bar , a section of tube longer than the distance between the lifting eyes with holes at either end to pass the chain through. A piece of foam recycled from one of those pool toy batons is good to protect behind the carburettor.
You will use the crane to drop the motor onto a board across the crane base. You will then be able to wheel it easily.
Packer strips to protect the seams of the heat exchangers, or even the rest of the pool toy, are good!
Because the engine and gearbox are attached in a triangular fashion you will have to support the gearbox on a jack, or better,measure from the lowest point of the box( between the drive shafts) to the floor. Subtract 80mm and make up a stout wooden chock to that height. This gives you good clearance and aligns the gearbox nicely for refitting.
Have some flexible wire,(single strand electrical is good), ready so that you will be able to wire the gearbox in place before rolling the motor out,or in case you have to move the van.
You will need a good garage jack. I use a 70 mm hardwood beam with 20 mm spacers at the ends, jacking centrally across the chassis. you will be needing about 700 mm from the floor to the lowest point , the back of the wheel arch.
You will need a clutch alignment tool. If you can get a vw input shaft off another gearbox, makes it easy.
Look very carefully at your clutch and release bearing. Now is the ideal time to replace.
You will have to get the flywheel off. I use a home made long angle iron bar, with lugs welded to fit the clutch bolts to lock the flywheel and a 3/4 inch drive socket /breaker bar/ plus extension tube. Total length 1000mm. I weigh 80 kg and by standing onthe end of this bar I release even the 36 mm early type nut with no effort. Reverse for tightening(!)
The flywheel oil seal is sold apart, order at the same time the oil seal that fits inside the flywheel.
You will have to prise the old seal out,( 2 rounded off medium flat blade screwdrivers are good). DoNT scratch the casing and try to get the seal out cleanly. If all is well, then find a large socket, or tube to fit the inside of the old seal, and use this to drift the new seal in.
Use Hylomar or blue assembly compound to wipe round the edge of the seal.
Tips for assembly:
Make sure that the D bolt and studs are clean, and that the nut spins freely along the thread.
When you are aligning the engine for refitting, make sure that the throttle cable has passed through the front (flywheel) tinware, if necessary undo the 2 screws by N4 cylinder. Clamp it with a mini mole wrench.
I hope this will help. There is always a first time!! My type 2 bay twin cab used to blow its seal every time I thrashed it in third up a gradient with 700 kg. of gravel on board!!
Cordialement,
Re: Replace Crank Oil Seal
It would be nice to hear from someone who has replaced the oil seal on a CU engine by removing the gearbox?
Club 80-90 Member 4966
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine