Fuel and Temp Gauge

[mush145]

Right got replacement battery and went back to the van. So tested the circuits so from facing the reading on the left side was about 11v the reading on the right was 0. Interestingly when I was testing the left hand side one of the relays in the fuse box was clicking away merrily. Could not find any wire lying around so have not tried shorting it yet.

[AngeloEvs]

A reading of zero volts is wrong and indicates a fault or a mistake when taking the measurements. The centre nut is connected to earth and you should obtain a voltage reading on the nuts either side of the centre earth nut. I would check that the nuts are tight as they can come loose and fail to make contact with the copper strips underneath. The 11V reading on the left nut (when viewed from behind steering wheel) indicates that the Voltage Stabilser is ok but a zero reading on the right one is definitley a fault that needs to be rectified. Does the coolant LED flash when you switch on the ignition?

[mush145]

Will give it another go on the readings. The nuts seem tight but will have another go. The coolant light does flash when the ignation is on.

[AngeloEvs]

If the LED is flashing then the gauge is definitely receiving the 11V . Check again as no Voltage on the other nut explains why the gauge is not working.....

[mush145]

Finally got round to looking at this again. Wife has had me decorating so had no opptunity. Anyway with the help of my Dad looked at again at the reading and to make sure I was correctly on the nuts. I recived a 42 relay so have now fitted this. Facing the guage I was getting a reading of 2.5v on the left side and about 2.4v on the right side. When I shorted the connection the guage did not move but the relays when bonkers and red light did come one. Any thoughts

[AngeloEvs]

The reading is far too low, should be about 10V, so either:-

1. the regulator is duff

2. there is a short circuit across it.

3. the regulator is not making a good contact in the socket into which it fits or the membrane panel at the regulator crimp joints is duff

4 the nut thats secures the regulator is loose.

Is the regulator getting hot, if it is there is a short circuit across its output. If it isn't, remove the dash (only four screws hold it in place, various connections and the speedo cable) and remove the regulator from its socket. With it removed you could put a thin wire link in the regulator socket where the outer legs normally connect. Doing this will feed 12V into the temp and fuel gauges, if they work as normal then the regulator is duff.

[mush145]

Sorry I am going to sound stupid now but which part are we talking about when you refer to the regulator?

[AngeloEvs]

If you look at the picture that you posted (and mine) earlier in this thread you will see a black device held by a nut just to the right of the three nuts that secure the temp gauge, thats the regulator also called a stabiliser. It is mounted in a socket and secured by the nut that you can see. Undo the nut and carefully ease it out of the socket. 12V goes in and 10V comes out and feeds the fuel/temp gauges......except in yours for some reason.

[ermie571]

Angelo,

I have the earlier bus....and get no flashing light on ignition. Never had. Got temperature guage though.
Where does the module live on my bus that controls the flashing red light? Am I looking for a relay type thing?

would be nice to have it working properly!

Em
x

[AngeloEvs]

Em, unfortunately the circuit for the LED is in the gauge itself, either it or the LED has failed or the centre nut of the gauge isn't making contact to the membrane panel. I would check the centre nut first and make sure it is tight as the LED and the internal circuit earths through this. You can check it by holding a wire or attaching one with a crcodile clip to the centre nut and touch the other end of the wire to earth.

[mush145]

Got round to having a look at this again. So a big thank you to start with as I do not think I would have the confidence to take the instrument panel off before Actually when you do take it apart it is not that complicated or difficult to remove. I have done the tests and it does that the regulator has packed up, I have been searching on the internet and do not seem to be able to find a replacement part, any idea where you can pick up one?

[AngeloEvs]

Think they are still available but at an extortionate price. There may be a reasonably priced equivalent ( I seem to recall someone mentioning that there was) but try Syncrospares as they may have a used one available.

[ghost123uk]

Think they are still available but at an extortionate price.

True enough, they are around 25p and then you have to pay P&P on top !!

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/16096-v-reg- ... uctor.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



E D I T = keep reading down this thread as the input and output pins on the one I quoted above are reversed.

[AngeloEvs]

The one listed is a 10v regulator (and correctly priced for such a menial item!) but its not a direct replacement for the VAG (which is listed at megabucks price last time I looked it up). Check the spec sheet and I'm pretty sure you will find that the input and output legs are the other way round compared to the VAG one but you could fit it up side down but the Tab will not be in contact with the heatsink on the dash board which it must to stop it cooking. You could place a nut behind it though and that might conduct enough heat away. It was probably the equivalent I was referring to and saw mentioned in a previous thread. I would check the spec sheet before fitting it........

E D I T.
Heres the data sheet, legs are wrong way around with input on the left so fit it with the tab upwards and a nut behind it......

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/41550.pdf

[mush145]

thanks once again. Looking down the list there does appear to be 12v ones also, do you think these would be better