Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Cant remember this chap's name but I think those tyres are 33" on banded steel rims, 8x15 - dont quote me on this though. He managed to get them on the rear by employing major surgery on the rear arms but it looked quite good - much better than those arms with a bit of angle iron welded in!!
Cant imagine his wheel bearings lasting too long though but my God does it look cool or what!!!!!
the wheels on that blue doka are 10x15 with 33x12.5 tyres i would,nt band a set of standard wheels out to that size ! although i did start out with that idea !!!! it was far cheaper and stronger to buy a set of 10in wheels and drill the right stud pattern into them !!!!!
Taigagreen - Do you not have clearance problems with the 235/70. I have 225/75 MT on mine just now and the fronts scrap the rear of the wheel arch when I am off road or take a corner aggressively. I am running Merc CL500 alloys. I also have stronger springs (same length as the 2wd) on the front and a spacer on the rear to match the front. I am not too worried about the power as I have a about 190 ponies and loads of torque. I am looking at fitting the 16" arches to give me the space I need .
Cheers
Rob.
You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough.
1987 2.9 litre VR6 powered Syncro - Westy wannabe.
slobbo wrote:Taigagreen - Do you not have clearance problems with the 235/70. I have 225/75 MT on mine just now and the fronts scrap the rear of the wheel arch when I am off road or take a corner aggressively. I am running Merc CL500 alloys. I also have stronger springs (same length as the 2wd) on the front and a spacer on the rear to match the front. I am not too worried about the power as I have a about 190 ponies and loads of torque. I am looking at fitting the 16" arches to give me the space I need .
I put the 235/-16s on my doka first. Had to either remove a small section of the rear front wheel well or bend it out. Chose to bend, looks better and can be remedied. Then I put the same wheels on the camper and no clearance issues except now the left front wheel touches on the front of the arch under braking/cornering. So out came the dremel and a hammer. There is adjustment on where the front wheel sits in the wheel well. If I had the time I'd wait with modding the metal until the wheels had been properly adjusted.
I think you can see how the rear of the arch has been bent. Just put a 2x4 on the outside of the wheel and have someone turn the steering for you while you check how far out you want it.
On my last syncro I had wheels from a CL600. Are yours the same?
Like this:
Now
88 Westfalia syncro AAZ i/c
91 Caravelle syncro DJ
89 doka syncro DJ
89 Westfalia California JX
84 Reimo Camper 1.9 WBX
90 Caravelle Coach JX
98 Sharan 110hp TDi
Just a quick question to all those who have fitted alloys to your syncro's, Did you have to extend the studs or drill out the alloys? Just a glimer off hope so I don't have to dismantle the front & rear hubs.
Cheers
Jim
2.1 89 Caravelle Syncro
Laverda 750s (the big Lav)
Can I extinguish that glimmer?
Alot of alloys (mercs) will need bolt holes enlarging a couple of mm....No biggy
& yes studs will need extending, ie new front bearings required, To take out material that is meant to fix the wheel on with is not a good idea. Its quite likely that the alloys will be under-rated anyhow & to make them weaker........
The merc wheels required longer studs. Other wheels I've used, such as the allroad wheels, passat steels and a few others does not call for longer studs.
Now
88 Westfalia syncro AAZ i/c
91 Caravelle syncro DJ
89 doka syncro DJ
89 Westfalia California JX
84 Reimo Camper 1.9 WBX
90 Caravelle Coach JX
98 Sharan 110hp TDi
