Oil mis-understanding

[albertramsbottom]

Before you say search the forums or check the Wiki - I have!

There seesm to be a big argument as to what oil one should put in to an Aircooled engine.

Most say it should be 15w 40, but just Kampers and some other people such as Lauri Pettitt say it should straight 30

Now what should it be?

Cheers in advance

[Cakewalk]

Bit of a can of worms this one pal!!

The way I understand it is SAE 30 is recommended for air cooled engines that only have a basic oil strainer, so Bugs and early vans (splits and bays)

As the 2Ltr Aircooled Wedge engine has a "modern" screw on, disposable oil filter as well as the basic strainer I think the recommendation is any 20W50 "Classic" motor oil. Its what I use.

I am completely open to correction though

[albertramsbottom]

Bit of a can of worms this one pal!!

The way I understand it is SAE 30 is recommended for air cooled engines that only have a basic oil strainer, so Bugs and early vans (splits and bays)

As the 2Ltr Aircooled Wedge engine has a "modern" screw on, disposable oil filter as well as the basic strainer I think the recommendation is any 20W50 "Classic" motor oil. Its what I use.

I am completely open to correction though

There another grade of oil chucked in to the mix 20w/50

[axeman]

what ever oil that you want to put in it so long as it has the relevent API rating that VW state in there hand book. the API stands for American Petrolium Instertute. I would always use a multi grade as it will perform under a wider temp range, compaired with a straight oil

on my 2 vans 2.1MV (syncro doka) and 2.1 DJ (villa 3 camper) VW at the time of production used a 15/40 mineral oil. but oils have come on leaps and bounds since the vans were prodused, and today i do not think that any car firm would use anything outher that an a synthetic based oil at least, normaly a fully synthtic. rember the oil in all engines cleans lubercates and cools the engine so we are asking a lot from the oil, I have found and put in a 10/60 synthetic (expencive) about £35 for 4 liters in the both vans now. becouse this oil has a very very good working range,

every one will have there own advice and opinion and you will have to manke your own mind up, just one further thing in relation to your engine being air cooled, i also have a 1957 beetle which still has origional engine, it is a toy and only gets used every now and then and i use a 20/50 mineral oil in it, castrol or duckhams i think, but on that i will change the oil 2 times a year. as there is no real filtration on the enginge.

hope that this helps a little

neil

[Ian Hulley]

Now what should it be?

Cheers in advance

If you expect your engine rebuilder to honour their warranty I'd be asking them what THEY want you to put in it !

Ian.

[albertramsbottom]

Now what should it be?

Cheers in advance

If you expect your engine rebuilder to honour their warranty I'd be asking them what THEY want you to put in it !

Ian.

Good point but they have already told me that as I didnt have a complete engine rebuild then they cant gaureentee the top end rebuild. Which is total tosh. I had a massive argument yesterday with them and just kept saying that the engine did not overheat before the rebuild but he was having none of it. How can you prove such things?

Good rep as well

I think that I am going for 15w/40

[CovKid]

Sorry, I'd agree with the rebuilders on this. They can't guarantee the engine if its only had top end work - bit like putting a bionic arm on an old lady. This is the reason I quit servicing for a living. Once had a customer who just wanted oil leaks sorting and I advised them it may just make matters worse. It did, it blew and next thing I was in the small claims court - resonsible for a the whole lot.

Best not to extend this thread too much as its covered in detail elsewhere and we'll just end up replicating it all over again. The definitive answer is you choose what you're happy with (multigrade is fine) but change it regularly. That probably matters far more.

[Red Westie]

1947 Split screen monograde two different grades one for summer/one for winter (thick/Thin)

To Bay Window Still mono CUS THATS ALL THERE WAS! the same, two different grades, summer/winter

Early 70's WayHay! multigrade oil was invented (viscosity index improvers that made one oil behave like 2 different grades)

To Bay Window Now running on SUPERIOR multigrade oil, that would be 20W/50 (the 'W' stands for WINTER BTW)

1979 First of the AIR COOLED T3 (T25's) most dealerships still using 20W/50 but a few are stocking and using the latest 15W/40 mineral

to 1983/84 I think All VW main dealer now using 15W/40 mineral

1984/85? around then, First of the Wasserboxer's (basically an air cooled engine wearing water jackets ) All using 15W/40 mineral

Late 80's (approx) Semi and fully synthetic oils introduced but the lower viscosity not really suited to the older more basic flat 4 design.

to 1991 All the Wasserboxers (1.9/2.1) petrol engines, still using mineral 15W/40 even though semi and fully synthetics have been around for a few years. These newer/longer life oils are basically introduced to enable VW and other manufacturers to extend their service intervals and cater for higher performance/heat and longevity demanded by newer engine types.


So you see None of the AIR COOLED T25's (T3) used monograde, that was much earlier. Besides....why go with older inferior oil technology? Tis A NO BRAINER!
Martin

[albertramsbottom]

Sorry, I'd agree with the rebuilders on this. They can't guarantee the engine if its only had top end work - bit like putting a bionic arm on an old lady. This is the reason I quit servicing for a living. Once had a customer who just wanted oil leaks sorting and I advised them it may just make matters worse. It did, it blew and next thing I was in the small claims court - resonsible for a the whole lot.

Best not to extend this thread too much as its covered in detail elsewhere and we'll just end up replicating it all over again. The definitive answer is you choose what you're happy with (multigrade is fine) but change it regularly. That probably matters far more.

Well it wasnt quite like that as it never overheated before the top-end rebuild and there was never a low oil pressure issue, but you are right on the fact that this has been addressed in another thread so lets leve it alone. I have edited my last post on this thread

Cheers

[CovKid]

Check your timing and cooling though.

[Simon Baxter]

15w40 it it works okay.
20w50 if you are on borrowed time.

[horizontal kipper]

Ive been using duckhams hypergrade for over 20yrs in air cooled volks with no problems.

[CovKid]

See - told you it'd start this one off again. I use a mixture of five parts crisp n' dry, 2 parts baby oil and a teaspoon of olive oil for the valves