speeding up derusting, flattening and finishing ..

[xpress]

here's some pics in my garage area of restoration around the back left wheel arch (the first ten pics) the subsequent pics are different areas of rust that i am working on around the van including back right rear (pic 11), right lower seam (12), stone chip damage (13), and front right wheel arch seam (14).

we have taken off a lot of filler on this back left wheel arch that was hiding rust, and it's not as bad as it could have been, the arch is coming off and a new one welded in. we want to derust the bodywork above this arch. any opinions on all of this?

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/garage_vehi ... le&CID=970" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

what sort of abrasive and tools would speed up flattening down these raised pits of rust acne?

1 rotary sander with 80 grit aluminium oxide discs?
2 rectangular sheet sander for flattening down?
3 re jeloniting/vactanning the area letting to dry to soften the hard black oxide and resanding?
_
is it necessary or a waste of time to get this hard black stuff off (seems harder than normal metal) back to shiny bare metal or will applying vactan over this stabilise the rust, or will it show through shiny new paint if i don't get it all off?
_
when rebuilding the area with filler any tips for getting a good smooth and straight finish? and any preference to filler? was going to use p45 or u-pol. i see most ppl with campers use u-pol.

cheers!

[Titus A Duxass]

Small angle grinder with a metal oxide disc (grinding not cutting) is the best way of quickly removing rust and the black stuff.
You should try and get the black stuff down to shiny new metal.

[xpress]

cheers bro, when down to new metal, then vactan, roughen with 80 grit then filler?

p45 or u-pol?


weld up any holes or gauze and filler on small holes?

[Pepperami]

This is what i did to mine.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p7338025" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Damien]

Get it all ground back to shiney bare metal.

Personally i wouldn't waste time with vactan, gauze and filler, you'll be redoing it before your know it. Filler is for correcting contours not filling holes. P40 is for "filling holes" doesn't take long for water to penetrate it, osmosis blisters start to show and rust to re form.

Filler wise u-pol easylite is my choice, easy to work woth and sand. For flatting filler on flat areas i use a long bit of 2mm plastic with 60 grit production paper to shape and smooth then work through the grits using a rubber hand block, dont apply pressure let the sandpaper do all the work.

Do it once, do it properly, enjoy it for longer.