Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Can i get into the diff lock from the front end of the diff housing? i dont want to disturb the VC if i dont have to cause it works at the mo and i know nowt about them so am relutent to pull it out
Russel at Syncro-Nutz wrote:Taking the front off gives access to the locking components and allows you to strip it down.
It is the best way to free off a locker.
Russel
Cheers chap. it looked that way but ive not got a book for it! How much are the acuators for the lockers? i knocked mine getting the diff out and smashed it also after a full set of front cv boots. Can you include postage on that as im a far way from you.
At precent no stock of boots but try Simon at Brick-yard
If its just the little air tube broken off then this can be drilled and replaced with a short pice of brake pipe.
Russel
the flange sealant used is green from the factory
I can't get green anymore so use the blue one from Wurth which is same spec - they used to make the green one that Steyr used aparantly
but the loctite flange sealant generally available at motor factors is fine
use gear oil as the lube when reaming the diff lock sleeve and pin so as to lube the seal and some chemical react with the seal and it's the most expensive o ring on the planet it seems
top tip is remove vac unit before removing front diff especially first time unless you are Russel
ive got it all sorted apart from the o ring on the outer sleve of the acuator bar Dont know why i was worried about taking it to bits, its just a miniture uni-mog, if the back ends the same as the mogs as well i dont need a book for it.
Ive just found with a soak in hot water and a gator strecher 1303 gators will fit the inner CV, there streched a little further than i would like round the shaft will be interesting to see if they last
What oil should these run? ive got a drum of ep90 gear oil here that most stuff seems happy on if that will do? Also how much do they need?