It has an EMC hightop and what looks like a Reimo interior if that helps.
Ian.
T25 Big help needed pleaseeeeeeee!!!!!!!
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Ian Hulley
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- Location: Wirksworth, Derbyshire ... or at t'mill
Re: T25 Big help needed pleaseeeeeeee!!!!!!!
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
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windysurfer
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Re: T25 Big help needed pleaseeeeeeee!!!!!!!
The sender for the temp gauge is on the back of the engine on mine (towards the front of the van) and is a single wire. If I pull that off the sender and touch it to earth(engine block) my temp gauge slowly goes right to the top.
Pretty sure mine doesn't have the small pump in the engine bay, I think this is normally fitted on turbo engine to cool the engine when its been turn off, your sounds like that bits working OK.
Has your temp gauge needle ever worked and did your rad fan come on when your red ligh came on?
Although my engine is a 1.9d it's an AEF not the usaul 1y normally fitted, so things may be diffrent on my engine but I'm more than happy to post up some picture of anything you think might help.
E D I T Just reread your original post, so your temp gauge did work but now doesn't. Have you tried the white PCB plug under the dash. Give it a wiggle and see if this turns any light on or off, could just be the plug needs a clean
Pretty sure mine doesn't have the small pump in the engine bay, I think this is normally fitted on turbo engine to cool the engine when its been turn off, your sounds like that bits working OK.
Has your temp gauge needle ever worked and did your rad fan come on when your red ligh came on?
Although my engine is a 1.9d it's an AEF not the usaul 1y normally fitted, so things may be diffrent on my engine but I'm more than happy to post up some picture of anything you think might help.
E D I T Just reread your original post, so your temp gauge did work but now doesn't. Have you tried the white PCB plug under the dash. Give it a wiggle and see if this turns any light on or off, could just be the plug needs a clean
If Carlsberg made Coachbuilts...........
T4 Karmann Colorado
T4 Karmann Colorado-
thetattoomaster
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- Joined: 09 Jun 2009, 21:23
Re: T25 Big help needed pleaseeeeeeee!!!!!!!
Off for test run, results to follow.
All the best
Dave
All the best
Dave
Last edited by thetattoomaster on 14 Jun 2009, 19:24, edited 1 time in total.
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thetattoomaster
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- Joined: 09 Jun 2009, 21:23
Re: T25 Big help needed pleaseeeeeeee!!!!!!!
Just to let everyone know......Problem solved.
I spent last couple of days testing electrics and found that the sender in the above pic, with the double push on conecter fitted is in fact the unit that regulates the signal flow to the Tempreture Gauge that is integral to the Clock, Fuel Gauge, and the Flashing Red Light that controls the temp from the header tank sender.
It would seem that all of the Water Temp, Oil Temp, Turbo Cooling Pump and Radiator Temp Sender Unit are all interlinked via the fuse board that can be found behind the passanger side pull down storage unit at knee level.
After checking all the wires from rear to fuse board and from fuse board to dash wiring harness, I decided to remove the instrument panel housing and check the rear of the instruments, it was then that the fault was noticed......it would seem that due to the camper being stood facing the sun for a long period of time, and the fact that some cowboy with a very heavy screwdriver, had in the past tried to resolve the problem but given up in dispair but had not omited to leave his mark by breaking off the securing screws, the circuit board (flexable plastic skin) that carries all the connections for the instruments in the dash housing cluster had heated up over time and and warped...causing the contact for the Temp Gauge to come away from the conection. I put a small piece of Gaffa Tape over the corner of the housing causing the unit to be pulled together and making the circuit board contact with the rear on the instrument conections....... and there you go a temp Gauge that now works great. I have decided to leave the Turbo Cooling Pump in situe even though my engine does not have a turbo fitted, it seems to work well in keeping the temp down, and it stops the chance of the cylinder head overheating when stationary or when the van is parked up, as the unit continues running until the head has cooled down and then turns itself off.
I have just got back from a 30 mile run and the temp is taking around 15 minutes to come up to running temp and it is staying there regardless of driving at speed or standing still.
I have completly serviced the engine and checked most of the torques on the bolts to my satisfaction, the mechanics and engines are a piece of cake to work on compared to what I have been used to in the past.
It seemed a long winded job but I am now very conversant with the Camper Wiring and if anyone else has probems please dont hesitate to give me I shout, I will be willing to help if I can , or if you are in Suffolk/Norfolk I am willing to come and have a look for you,...as they say 2 heads are better than 1 lol.
All the best
Dave
The Tattoomaster
I spent last couple of days testing electrics and found that the sender in the above pic, with the double push on conecter fitted is in fact the unit that regulates the signal flow to the Tempreture Gauge that is integral to the Clock, Fuel Gauge, and the Flashing Red Light that controls the temp from the header tank sender.
It would seem that all of the Water Temp, Oil Temp, Turbo Cooling Pump and Radiator Temp Sender Unit are all interlinked via the fuse board that can be found behind the passanger side pull down storage unit at knee level.
After checking all the wires from rear to fuse board and from fuse board to dash wiring harness, I decided to remove the instrument panel housing and check the rear of the instruments, it was then that the fault was noticed......it would seem that due to the camper being stood facing the sun for a long period of time, and the fact that some cowboy with a very heavy screwdriver, had in the past tried to resolve the problem but given up in dispair but had not omited to leave his mark by breaking off the securing screws, the circuit board (flexable plastic skin) that carries all the connections for the instruments in the dash housing cluster had heated up over time and and warped...causing the contact for the Temp Gauge to come away from the conection. I put a small piece of Gaffa Tape over the corner of the housing causing the unit to be pulled together and making the circuit board contact with the rear on the instrument conections....... and there you go a temp Gauge that now works great. I have decided to leave the Turbo Cooling Pump in situe even though my engine does not have a turbo fitted, it seems to work well in keeping the temp down, and it stops the chance of the cylinder head overheating when stationary or when the van is parked up, as the unit continues running until the head has cooled down and then turns itself off.
I have just got back from a 30 mile run and the temp is taking around 15 minutes to come up to running temp and it is staying there regardless of driving at speed or standing still.
I have completly serviced the engine and checked most of the torques on the bolts to my satisfaction, the mechanics and engines are a piece of cake to work on compared to what I have been used to in the past.
It seemed a long winded job but I am now very conversant with the Camper Wiring and if anyone else has probems please dont hesitate to give me I shout, I will be willing to help if I can , or if you are in Suffolk/Norfolk I am willing to come and have a look for you,...as they say 2 heads are better than 1 lol.
All the best
Dave
The Tattoomaster