Pushrod oil seals leaking?

[gsmoke]

You dont need to remove the exhaust. The only tinware is the small one that covers the pushrods underneath. Unfortunately, the csp telescopic ones wont fit the 2.0 Aircooled. I've found that all the pushrod oil seals I've used have been poor.

[toolsntat]

Would love to see this done as my 2.0l a/c needs attention....

Any videos out there of it being done at a techy meet or something

[gonche]

You dont need to remove the exhaust. The only tinware is the small one that covers the pushrods underneath. Unfortunately, the csp telescopic ones wont fit the 2.0 Aircooled. I've found that all the pushrod oil seals I've used have been poor.

Well im glad I dont have to remove the exhaust. Shame the CSP telescopic tubes dont fit

The oil seals I bought were from vw heritage and they resemble thick rings, I have seen them on other web sites that look like white and red seals, they are tapered and look like they seat better, but im not sure until i try. Looks like I need to predict some good weather and take some days of from work in the week as weekends are busy with the kids. Really want to get it done, as I have rang a garage and they mentioned a few hundred quid, which didnt leave me too confident and also said it could be about 5 hours labour, so I need to save that few hundred quid and have a go myself. But to get prepared I want to make sure I have all the parts to get it done right first time... all of the information on this thread has been invaluable and thanks to everyone for their advice. Just wondered if I should buy some new tubes to make sure before I start?

Would love to see this done as my 2.0l a/c needs attention....

Any videos out there of it being done at a techy meet or something

A video this would be awesome, it would be great to see some pictures of anything as an example.

[jason k]

its an hour a side max for a first timer. the garage is ripping you off.

it really is a piece of p.iss

the pushrod tubes will withdraw thru the head once the rockergear is off, so no need for telescopic tube, people are confusing you, the telescopics are for wbx motors as the tubes do not come thru the head on these motors.

bung the new seals on and push the tubes home

refit and bobs your mothers brother.

i dont reset the tappets either as if you look at it you have not altered anything and the motor has not turned so just bolt everything where it came from and off you go.

good luck!!

[toolsntat]

Cheers Jason well put and gives me a better understanding of the process

Just one thing that flummoxes me is what happens to the oil

[toomanytoys]

2L (Type 4) is a different design to the "type 1/wbx".. They are not interchangable

The tubes on your engine (if in good nick) can be reused with new seals... make sure the seating faces are nice and clean..

[sendiw]

Give the bores a good clean which is quite difficult but worth the extra effort and apply a smear of grease before reassembly.
Enjoy.

[orangebooboobearcrew]

Hi,

Done this myself recently on our 2ltr Aircooled. As the other people have said on here - this is a piece of pi$$ really but just a couple of points to be aware of that I have learnt by bitter experience...!

When re-tightening the rocker assembly, be really careful not to overtighten the nuts - just nip these up by hand - doesn't need to be too tight, pay attention to how much pressure you need to undo when you take these off and re-tighten to similar pressure when putting back. I overtightened mine and stripped the threads off the studs as a result which caused me loads of grief! Took me 3 weeks to source new studs and nuts, had to split the old nuts off, etc - believe me you don't want to end up here! (The threads on the studs tend to be extremely soft and strip easily - beware!!! )

I personally struggled a bit to get the push rod tubes back into the head once the new seals were on as they were extemely tight (as you'd expect!). I found the best way was to push at the base of the tube (nearest the head) with a long flat bladed screwdriver to push the tubes home. Once I had mastered this, it took me about 5 mins per tube so with 8 to do probably 45 mins to an hour. I would however allow yourself probably 2 - 3 hours to do the whole job to be on the safe side.

I also read differing opinions on whether to reset tappets but based on the principle already mentioned, nothing has moved if you haven't turned the rear wheels or the engine in some way so no need to reset. I didn't reset mine and it started first time with no noisy tappets....

I've now got a van that doesn't drip oil all over the drive or rot out my new heat exchangers. Oil consumption also notably improved - really satisfying job once it's all done. Hope it all goes okay for you...

Chris

[gonche]

I have to say i am very happy reading this and has gave me the bottle to get some time and just do it myself, a big thank you to all who have contributed to this thread with their constructive answers.

I think i was getting confused as previously mentioned. So I will go a head and follow each detail, will most likely make some notes on this thread and when I get time off from the kids I will have a go and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again,
gonche

[gonche]

Cheers Jason well put and gives me a better understanding of the process

Just one thing that flummoxes me is what happens to the oil

Good point? do you need to drain the oil or if the engine has been left for some time while all of the oil drains back into the sump? I guess its a worthy question to ask.

[jason k]

apart from a few dribbles the oil will be in the sump. dont worry it wont be pouring out!!!

[gonche]

Hi all,

Well I actually got out there today and got one side done, meaning 4 tubes and oil seals fitted on the driver side. I have managed to take it for a short drive and ran the engine. So far no oil leak, I still have to do the other side, but Im chuffed that its done. Thanks to everyone for their great advice. I took my time and made sure everything was cleaned, greased, and checked. So in all one side took me 2 hours. Still it wasnt that bad at all and I feel confident to get on with the other side when I next have free time.

Thanks again.
gonche

[jason k]

good man!!

the locking wire can be a mare tho cant it!!!

[gonche]

good man!!

the locking wire can be a mare tho cant it!!!

Yeah it was quite funny really as I took of the rocker cover I thought to myself, I must remember how that clip goes on. Then on putting back together my mind was blank and I thought how does this go in, but in the end I sussed it. I think what I did is put the rocker shafts on equal onto the studs and then gently added in the clip into the gaps in the rocker shaft.

I also had a moment at the start when I thought I would need to take of the tinwear to see the tube nearest to the front. I took part of the air filter away in the engine bay and could not shift the screws from inside. I made a drink and sat there thinking hmm im not gonna be able to do this, and wasted another 15mins looking at the problem. In the end I left it and just took the tube out and then realised I could see through the cylinder head and see the hole in the block I needed to clean up!! So I then used some brake cleaner to clean up the bore and surrounding areas, then cleaned the tube, put the new oil seals on the tubes with a hook pick so i didnt stretch them, then soaked with some motor oil, put back in through the head and as advised on here I think i used a 22mm socket with a hammer to hit back the tubes into the block, not to hard just gentle taps so i knew it was going in ok and sitted in correctly. Once i did the first tube the others were alot faster. Once I finished that side I didnt rush and gently tightened down rocker shaft and sorted the spring!! But the rocker clip was great fun!!! trying to get that on with screw driver was a work of art, but I realised if i lined up the rocker clip to make sure its in the middle of the rocker cover correctly, then it isnt to bad once pull over into the hole. So all in all im happy, just need to get the other side done now but most importantly I couldnt see any oil after a run. I will check the drive again this morning, fingers crossed

[toolsntat]

Right then , got around to attacking this job this week and when the tinware and covers were off it looked as though most of the leak was coming out of the perished gaskets.......

Replaced the gaskets and seem to have eliminated the problem

Will have a look in a while and see what, if anything, is showing around the pushrod tubes....

Cheers all for your info in this thread

Wish I had remembered to video this little job