Dodgy recon engine?

[captain Byrne]

I've just had a 1.9 dg recon engine fitted to my 83 T25 but here are a couple of issues I'd like solving. When I picked up the van I had a long drive home (250 miles), whenever I slowed to idle the oil pressure light came on. This persisted until I more or less completed my 500 mile run-in when it gradually stopped coming on. This I can live with but I'd still like to know if it's normal & why it happened. The second problem is a tad more worrying.. Every so often when the engine is warm & I restart it after a small break of a few minutes I get a massive blast of blue smoke from the exhaust. It starts immediately and only does it occasionally but again I'd like to know why? I changed the oil & filter at 500 miles and have now just come back from my hols covering a total of 1700 miles, the oil has come down about 1 cm on the dipstick. The engine sounds fine a runs well but not quite as nippy as my previous one. Any help will be much appreciated.

[AngeloEvs]

Take it back or give them a call! Never rebuilt a 1.9DG but have re-built several other types and the symptoms you describe, particularly low oil pressure, doesn't seem right (unless a poor quality oil was used for running in?). Rings can take while to bed in with slightly higher oil consumption but large plumes of smoke on start up would also worry me and I wouldn't be too happy. Lots of folks have rebuilt these engines so wait and see what their opinion is. Who fitted /re-conned the engine - Elite, vege, local garage?

[captain Byrne]

Just spoken to the guys that fitted the engine. They said the smoke is likely to be a blocked breather. As for the oil pressure light this has now sorted itself out & could just have been low grade oil. Thoughts anyone?

[eatcustard]

Red light on = Damage has been done?

[fullsunian]

Red light on = Damage has been done?

Agreed if it were mine I would be having it back ofor the oil lamp on

[Mr Bean]

My rebuilt 2.1 WBX did exactly the same thing on the way home and I did actually turn round and take it back. After a discussion we worked out that the oil level was too high (I am told that these engines are not very tolerant to high oil levels) and I subsequently realised that they had not replaced my aftermarket throttle return spring return spring so that the throttle could flick back to random positions thus kidding them on that they had set it correctly.. Both problems solved and many successfull miles completed up to now.
I have had the smoke cloud syndrome after topping up on a French motorway - fair put the wind up me! And They couldn't be blamed for the dodgy throttle re-assembly as it was not a VW mode and certainly not very obvious.
Cheers
Wolfie

[AngeloEvs]

Never really understood this idea of using cheap oil for the running in period. Spend hundreds rebuilding and then try to save a tenner or so on the critical part of the engines initial bedding in period? Intermittent burning of oil on start up could be a variety of things, i,e. worn valve guide, maladjusted tappets, etc but I would want to know for sure. Never heard of an engine that suffers low oil pressure at idling because it is over filled but do correct me if I am wrong. And, poor performance compared to the old lump........hmmm?

[VWCamperfan]

The idea of using cheap oil is to do exactly what you want it to... Run in!
Most good oils are too good, meaning the engine will not wear slightly to fine tune everything ie. piston rings to bores. The good oils just leave a glazed surface which won't then wear and make everything good and snug.
It is possible that this is what caused the original oil light problem. Until everything is bedded in you will have gaps where the oil can escape and could possible cause slightly low pressure.
This would also account for the smoke from the exhaust as the oil can push past the rings and into the combustion chamber.
Stick with it and see what happens over the next 100-200 miles. If it improves then yippee! If not then let them have a look.
As mentioned above though, check the breather assembly just to be sure as the engine will breathe heavily until its run in.

[Simon Baxter]

put some 15w40 in it rather than the 10w40 that's probably in it.

[fullsunian]

The idea of using cheap oil is to do exactly what you want it to... Run in!
Most good oils are too good, meaning the engine will not wear slightly to fine tune everything ie. piston rings to bores. The good oils just leave a glazed surface which won't then wear and make everything good and snug.
It is possible that this is what caused the original oil light problem. Until everything is bedded in you will have gaps where the oil can escape and could possible cause slightly low pressure.
This would also account for the smoke from the exhaust as the oil can push past the rings and into the combustion chamber.
Stick with it and see what happens over the next 100-200 miles. If it improves then yippee! If not then let them have a look.
As mentioned above though, check the breather assembly just to be sure as the engine will breathe heavily until its run in.

Exactly. Seen it loads of times in past when people use good oil like magatic in a new/rebuilt engine, before its run in and it ends up smoking worse than the one they took out. When you pull it to bits all the honing marks are still on the bores and they are all glazed up. The engine just didn't get the chance to bed in. Asda oil best for running in

[Mr Bean]

Well my view is that the quality of engine oil is largely to do with its ability to operate within its specifications over time. Like more than 500 miles. During the running in period the main function of the oil is to carry away the microscopic material produced by the bedding in of rubbing surfaces. The bore is honed so as to assist this process and if this was in a machine shop which it isn't you would be using specially formulated cutting oil which you don't. Cheap or expensive don't cut much ice in this process as most damage is done by over reving, labouring or overheating. No harm in spending a few more bob if it makes you feel better. Its what follows the running in that counts. To be frank I am a believer in frequient oil changes over everlasting oils although if you are burning the stuff you almost get continuos change of oil anyway. Once you are out of the tenner a gallon bracket you should be safe enough anyway. Cheers
Wolfie
(When Molyslip came onto the market I used it in my Beeza and the big end bolts came undone and wrecked the engine!)

[captain Byrne]

Thanks for all the advice.

I'll put some 15w40 in, check the breather pipes for blockages & see how it goes. Still concerned about the occasional blast of blue smoke at starting but the engine's guaranteed so I'll see how it goes.

[jaymo]

This all makes complete sense as I've not long had a recon engine fitted by the guys at Elite just over 500 miles ago. I've had the oil light coming on for a few seconds after a long run, but I hope the oil and filter change I'll be doing this weekend will solve the problem, otherwise, the job these guys do seems to be spot on.

[AngeloEvs]

Not convinced, I always used a reputable mineral oil of the correct grade but free of friction additives following an engine rebuild and never experienced low oil pressure during the initial running in period even after a long run. Pressure was slightly higher at tickover whlle the bearings were bedding in but each to their own I suppose.

[jason k]

if the oil light is coming on summats not right.

get it back to em or get the oil pressure tested at the very least