Replacing rear brake pipe

[tim146]

I have a 1989 1.9 Petrol Manual 4 speed transporter. The right (drivers) brake pipe (rear) has burst. I need to repace but cannot work out how to get access to the "T" piece union. I am assuming it is the clutch pipe that is routed close to the the T piece and this is making it almost impossible to gain access especially with cooling pipes in the way. Any tricks of the trade or even some form of a diagram that would help me with this one?

[Fritz]

Ah,,,,,if was that easy, any silly sod could do it.

Well that is what I keep on telling myself and I've been a mechanic for years.........Anyway you are gunna have to get underneath the old dear and get nice and close to where you need to be. Having the correct tools for the job as well as some good quality penetrating oil to help the job along.

There is no simple way of tackling this sort of operation other than moving a side any obstructions and if necessary using short reach pipe spanners, but unless you have the grip of a gorilla and things come apart easily it may still be a struggle to replace this pipe.

Good luck is really all I can offer at this point...


Regards


Fritz,,,,,,,,,,,

[caveman]

It may also help to get a proper flare nut wrench .

[PEET]

If your replacing the pipe jus cut it with snips as close to the nut as possible then slide a socket on as they are always well seized!! good luck!!!

[dugcati]

you could always chop the pipe well back and put in a new tee piece/re-connect both sides to that and then re-route the whole lot so it's easier to get at next time round

[Simon Baxter]

If your replacing the pipe jus cut it with snips as close to the nut as possible then slide a socket on as they are always well seized!! good luck!!!

What he said.

[Simon Baxter]

you could always chop the pipe well back and put in a new tee piece/re-connect both sides to that and then re-route the whole lot so it's easier to get at next time round

That's a bodge.

[tim146]

OK Guys thanks for the comments but for more information - the throttle cable (not clutch) is held by a clip that is attached using a torque or torch screw that also hold the T piece in place. The clip was so corroded that it broke off so we were able to gain access to the union. This (the union!) was removed by (as suggested else where) cutting off the old pipe and hammering a socket onto the end of the union, using a braker socket to remove. After replacing the pipe with new unions (COPPER GREASE ON THREAD - then you can remove it again) we bled (using halfords self bleeding kit ... great piece of kit) and tighted the bleed nipples. We then found a tiny hole in the pipe going to the front of the van very close to the T piece (like an aerosal spray!). Removal of the union the same way using hammer, socket and braker bar. We just cut the pipe short by about an inch, flared (in situ with fluid leaking out - nice!!!) and replaced union and re-bled. We now have a solid pedal and no more leaks. Throttle cable repositioned using a tie wrap. Note when you do this procedure remove the hanger holding the coolant pipes and tie wrap then to the left (as you are lying under vehicle - e.g. drivers side) via the trailing arm - makes access a lot easier. A good inspection lamp (with energy lamp so its not hot) is vital - hang it over the top of gearbox helps. Also don't choose a day when its p***ing it down.
One thing I would say whoever designed this aspect of VW's never thought about replacement and was obviously a complete a***hole as anyone with half a brain would not have positioned the T piece in such an inaccesable place. Much of VW engineering is a masterpiece of simplicity, however this was obviously designed by a f***wit. I disagree with one of the posters who said that repositioning the T piece is a bodge, for future replacement it is probably the obvious choice (typical purists - struggle for hours with something which wasn't designed right in the first place). If you can make the job easier next time - do it is my attitude.
Why is it then that copper brake pipes corrode (the ones in my house central heating don't)? Copper build up a protective (green) layer then doesn't "corrode" anymore. Is it the salt or is it the hydraulic fluid? Why aren't brake pipes made of something that doesn't corrode or that have a coating (such as plastic) to prevent corrosion?
Please note also this post actually has useful information, advice, procedures etc that will (hopefully) help some one with a practical solution to a problem they are having!

[PEET]

Every car is designed "pooh" as they are designed and never expected to go wrong and be disposed of after 5 years maximum. In Japan there is legislation which requires full brake pipe renewal every 3 years - that's nice eh?!!?! I got this from a designer from Peugot - the companies instill that repair and replacement is very unimportant as obviously it makes the company more money if it is awkward to replace stuff anyway!!!

And compared to some "pooh" modern cars I work on these are luch to work on - the job you jus done is a lot easier on 3' commercial axle stands or even better a hydraulic ramp! Its that lovely front to rear one that goes over the tank thats a bitch and don't even talk about the ones inside down to the front...

[tim146]

Hi PEET - yep I know about pooh in car design. Toyota and Honda got a reputation for reliability when trying to break into the US car market. An industry expert I know said that one thing they did over and above the American heaps was to add a larger battery and higher rated alternator. Didn't cost THAT much more but even when the rest of the car was made out of dirt cheap pooh! at least the things would always start, especually in cold weather. Result - Toyota are now the worlds most powerful car manufacturer - ford, chrysler (nee Fiat) and GM are on the verge of bankruptcy. Thank goodness that at Mercedes (who obviously got out of Chrysler when the going was good) they are now introducing good engineering back into their cars rather than relying on the accountants to make the engineering decisions (new C class is a cracking motor - not something you can say about he last 15 years of designs for what is viewed as a "quality" mark).

[Simon Baxter]

The brake pipes are designed that way so that the t-piece is out of harms way, they were easy to get to on earlier models, so when the van initially came out with an air cooled engine and a different gear linkage then they were simple to fix, only as the vans evolved did that particular union get difficult to reach.
It's really not rocket science to drop the 2x13mm's on the gearbox and drop the linkage off and this opens up a whole world of accessability, but usually not needed, only sometimes do i resort to this.
There is a reason why the T-piece is there as that means that there is only one pipe routed around that chassis member rather than 2, means less chance of damage from stones etc, meaning less chance of puncture meaning safer brakes, why do you think that the rear link pipes on the trailling arm are routed on the top? bit tenuous but you get the picture.
Is the throttle cable clipper to it? it's usually the fuel feed pipe.
Copper is for girls, Kunifer is for men.