Now it won't run!! :(

[T25rc]

Since changing my left hand side carb i've had problems. Trying to drive to the MOT brought basically no power in first/second (but seemed better in 3rd/4th?!) very loud bangs from the exhaust and it cut out and wouldn't restart...

One theory is that the mixture settings are out by a mile, could anyone tell me where the mixture screws are and what i should set them to?

Failing this, any other ideas on why it may be running badly?

Cheers
Rich

[rick]

the mixture screw is on the right side of the left carb. where to set it is a 64ooo dollar question, it needs to be measured accurately and no 2 carbs are the same. im sure they at the garage you use could set it up for you. especially during an mot while its hooked upto a diagnostic. mine was a way out but the garage i use sorted it for free during the mot.
are you sure its got good fuel in it? theres a lot of crap about and it has the effect you describe. also, are you sure the new carb youve fitted is ok? if its been stood for ages it will be full of varnish and blocked. are all your tinware seals in place? the not starting after a run problem can be down to perculation if to much heat is getting onto the carbs.
the most likely cause is the new carb being full of crud and i would start there.
so, youve got plenty to go at .

[T25rc]

Thanks for that.

Well i got it running again, after finding many air leaks for which i now blame the gunshot noises from the exhuast. So i balanced the carbs at idle using my synchometer, and it was running fine.

So i turned it off, charged the battery, went to start it again and nothing. It doesn't seem to be sparking (well it does, but once in a 10 second bout of cranking, so i swapped the coil and ignition modual from my mk2 golf which didn't help at all.

Any ideas? Do you think it is the dizzy... it just seems odd that it was running the best it has in a while, but now wont fire.

Cheers

[jason k]

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; do a rebuild kit for the dizzys, mostly its the hall sensors that fail

[T25rc]

cheers,

do the hall senders usually go in that fashion, working one minute, turn it off... then it won't start?

Any other thoughts on what it could be?

[Grun]

Have you got a Haynes (or Bentley) Manual ?

According to a copy of Haynes 'Engine management and fuel injection manual' that I have.........

To check the Hall sender, you need to identify the supply, signal and earth terminals on the multiplug on the Distributor.

Haynes' maual for the 1.9 carb. engine shows them colour coded...... RED/BLACK supply......GREEN/WHITE signal......BROWN/WHITE earth.

With the multiplug CONNECTED peel back the boot and put your multimeter positive probe on the SIGNAL wire and the meter negative to a good earth.
Haynes says 'remove the distributor cap, then with ignition ON, slowly turn the engine (by hand). As the trigger vane cut out space moves in and out of the air gap the voltage should alternate between 10..12 volts and ZERO.

Have you checked the earth connections from under the coil to the crankcase?

Mike