Can anyone please help, my temperature gauge needle does not work.
when i turn the van over all the light come on, but after this the needle does not move.
i have tried a new temperature sensor - but still the needle does not respond.
i have been told by a mechanic that he has checked the flexi-circuit and that there is a fault. but he has not told me wear the break is. he is usually a reliable guy - but is unusually vague about about this problem.
i suppose what i need to know is: how do i locate a break in the flexi/circuit
can a break be fixed and if so how
could it be anything else causing the need to be dead
i would be very greatful if anyone can help - i have been bugged by this for far too long. if i can get this sorted, i finally have a van that should be running soundly.
cheers darren
cheers darren
temperature needle dead / flexi cuircuit
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- AngeloEvs
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Re: temperature needle dead / flexi cuircuit
First, a lot of info and a picture of the rear of the flexible membrane circuit in this thread, take a look as I will refer to it below:-
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48092
1. First, does the temperature gauge warning LED flash and the fuel gauge work?
If yes, your gauge has voltage and you need to check that nut C (see picture in thread) connects to conX 6 of the multipin connector. You will need to remove the speedo pod to check this. Looking from the rear (as in the pic), you count from left to right. Check that the nut is tight. You will need a multimeter set to a low ohms range to perform the measurement.
If the membrane panel is fubared then repairs depends on the fault and where it is. If it is open circuit where the copper is exposed you can use conducting paint available from Halfords (£10-00). Check the rear of the membrane panel by removing the small connector shroud (just unclips) and carefully lift the membrane edge connector section, check the condition of the exposed copper at conx 6 as it loops to conx4 and can get damaged if the connector has been fitted badly at some time in the past.
See how you get on and let us know. Bear in mind that the fault may be in the wiring to the sender.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48092
1. First, does the temperature gauge warning LED flash and the fuel gauge work?
If yes, your gauge has voltage and you need to check that nut C (see picture in thread) connects to conX 6 of the multipin connector. You will need to remove the speedo pod to check this. Looking from the rear (as in the pic), you count from left to right. Check that the nut is tight. You will need a multimeter set to a low ohms range to perform the measurement.
If the membrane panel is fubared then repairs depends on the fault and where it is. If it is open circuit where the copper is exposed you can use conducting paint available from Halfords (£10-00). Check the rear of the membrane panel by removing the small connector shroud (just unclips) and carefully lift the membrane edge connector section, check the condition of the exposed copper at conx 6 as it loops to conx4 and can get damaged if the connector has been fitted badly at some time in the past.
See how you get on and let us know. Bear in mind that the fault may be in the wiring to the sender.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
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Re: temperature needle dead / flexi cuircuit
AngeloEvs wrote:First, a lot of info and a picture of the rear of the flexible membrane circuit in this thread, take a look as I will refer to it below:-
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48092
1. First, does the temperature gauge warning LED flash and the fuel gauge work?
If yes, your gauge has voltage and you need to check that nut C (see picture in thread) connects to conX 6 of the multipin connector. You will need to remove the speedo pod to check this. Looking from the rear (as in the pic), you count from left to right. Check that the nut is tight. You will need a multimeter set to a low ohms range to perform the measurement.
If the membrane panel is fubared then repairs depends on the fault and where it is. If it is open circuit where the copper is exposed you can use conducting paint available from Halfords (£10-00). Check the rear of the membrane panel by removing the small connector shroud (just unclips) and carefully lift the membrane edge connector section, check the condition of the exposed copper at conx 6 as it loops to conx4 and can get damaged if the connector has been fitted badly at some time in the past.
See how you get on and let us know. Bear in mind that the fault may be in the wiring to the sender.
thanks for the advice - really apreciated - will try to get my head around it when my mind is fresh,
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Re: temperature needle dead / flexi cuircuit
check the temp gauge by shorting the sensor plug (make sure you get the right one as some models > july 1986 have a different setup) and see if it rises, then check all your earth points, especially behind the fuse box, then remove it from the dash panel and put it across the battery to see if it rises.
if your temp gauge does not work across a battery then that is faulty, I am not 100% sure your mechanic is correct about the flexi circuit, I have a spare as I assumed my circuit was knacked as it was covered with what looked like electrical fire damaged but still worked the same as a replacement.
if your temp gauge does not work across a battery then that is faulty, I am not 100% sure your mechanic is correct about the flexi circuit, I have a spare as I assumed my circuit was knacked as it was covered with what looked like electrical fire damaged but still worked the same as a replacement.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..