1.9 DG Problem

[y30man5]

Hi everyone.

Got a problem with my 1983 T25, it's a 1.9 DG engine.

Mostly it starts fine, sometimes a bit difficult but I gather that's just cos she's getting on a bit... but after the engines been running for about 10 minutes it just dies unless I keep the revs up...

I've done a bit of reading of various forums including this one and it sounds like it could be the auto choke. Does anyone know if this is something that is difficult to sort out? I looked in the Haynes Manual and it all sounds a bit complicated and a '4 Spanner' job... I'm a '3 Spanner' job man at the most!! So, yeah, any advice will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance

[CovKid]

Could be an air leak somewhere and once the choke is off the mixture too weak for it to idle. Sounds like it.

[kevtherev]

Hi everyone.

Got a problem with my 1983 T25, it's a 1.9 DG engine.

Mostly it starts fine, sometimes a bit difficult but I gather that's just cos she's getting on a bit... but after the engines been running for about 10 minutes it just dies unless I keep the revs up...

I've done a bit of reading of various forums including this one and it sounds like it could be the auto choke. Does anyone know if this is something that is difficult to sort out? I looked in the Haynes Manual and it all sounds a bit complicated and a '4 Spanner' job... I'm a '3 Spanner' job man at the most!! So, yeah, any advice will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance

Welcome to the forum

check the choke operation
cold... take off the pancake look in to the carb after you have set the choke by pressing the accelerator. The choke flap should be closed
hot... take off the pancake and look into the carb, the choke flap should be open

air leak is checked by your MOT tester.. the O2 reading should be 1-2% much more and you have a leak

idle speed can be increased with the idle speed screw, turning in to increase rpm

sounds like a leak though
does it pop and pap on the overrun?

[dink]

have you blown through the jets on your carb, there's a diagram of the pierbeg carb in the wiki section up there ^^^
it's under fuel system - piererg
item 6 on the diagram is the idel jet, items 18 and 19 are the main jets, primary and secondary
it's best to take the carb off to blow them out, it's not a big deal to take it off
the three bolts that hole on part of the aircleaner onto the carb, hold the carb to the manifold, you'll need to remove the to bolts near the accelerator cable pully on the manifold
also the water housing bit that connects to the choke
scribe a mark on it before you take it appart, i thinki there are 2 bolts that hold it on, you won't need to disconect it from the water hoses
then there are a few wires, photograph it before you take it apart it'l help you when putting it back together
lastly the fuel lines flow and return
to take the top off the carb there are 5 philips screws be very careful you don't tare the gaskets, they are not cheap to replace
depending on how good or new your fuel filter is, you might well have gunk in the bottom of the carb
clean it out, then flush it out with carb cleaner, blow though the jets, and bung it back together

i'm having very similar trouble with my DG code motor at the moment, i've had it appart, and found water in the bottom, i have no idea how it's getting in there

[kevtherev]

i've had it appart, and found water in the bottom, i have no idea how it's getting in there

From the fuel tank
usually ingress is from the breather pipes and or filler neck.

[Mocki]

i've had it appart, and found water in the bottom, i have no idea how it's getting in there

From the fuel tank
usually ingress is from the breather pipes and or filler neck.

also from a "dirty fill up" possibly........

[dink]

i've had it appart, and found water in the bottom, i have no idea how it's getting in there

From the fuel tank
usually ingress is from the breather pipes and or filler neck.

nope, my t3 had a new fuel tank and fuel lines last year, i also fitted a diesel fuel filter from an old land rover
it's all coming off today, to be drained down, and some how filter the water out, and start again

[y30man5]

Thanks for your help everyone.

In the end I took it to the garage, (Being a well established unlucky person when it comes to this sort of thing, I got scared by the carb and how expensive it could be if I screwed up!)... they said they thought it had something to do with the thermostat, so that's been changed and now it idles ok.

However... i went on a drive to Lancaster yesterday. Got all the way there no problems, but on the way back it stalled as I slowed to the roundabout. On this occasion, I got it started again after leaving it a minute or so. Back on the motorway (took a wrong turning, so have to come off again), same problem again, only this time (because nothing other the speedo was working on the dash) I didn't realise it had stalled til I was in the middle of the roundabout! Lots of swearing prevailed and it wouldn't start. I rang the RAC (my membership has been well used). After about 10 minutes, worried about the fact my van was in the middle of the roundabout with many cars coming within inches of hitting it, I tried it again and hallelujah, got it started and drove it off the roundabout and into a layby.

Anyway,to cut a long story short, the very friendly RAC man told me that the reason I couldn't get it started again is because the starter motor is taking a ridiculously large amount of current (240A, instead of the usual 60-70A, apparently). As for the reason it's cutting out, he said pretty much the same thing as you guys... some kind of issue with the carb. He turned the idle speed up a bit and said that that should hopefully get me back home. It was running like a dream then until, for the last 15 miles or so of the motorway, it was a bit 'jumpy' and was lacking power and then it did cut out again as I pulled off at my junction of the motorway. It started again after a couple of minutes and I got it home.

So, would a leak make it cut out when slowing after a run on the motorway? (is this the overrun?) It doesn't pop or pap, just stalls.

Also, there seems to be many different starter motors, is this the one I would need? Mine's a 1983 model if that makes a difference. http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25 ... matic.html