Wiring for 3 way fridge help

[Doctor Foster]

Friends newly aquired T25 has a three way fridge that does not work on gas or battery (when igntion is on) The 240v to fridge works fine. Have tried to check for 12v behind the switches but get nothing. Its a RM2200 that has an ignitor for gas switch (red type) and a switch for 12v battery (red type) and a green large switch for 240v.

Anyone know which wires should be going where?? Im guessing the best bet is to take the fridge out??? Looks quite complicated though!!

Any ideas???

[matt]

Maybe the previos owner never plumbed or wired that side in ??

could be a replacement fridge

worth a call to the previous owners ?

[Mocki]

i always chuckle at these posts that start "A friends ......."
its ok, your amongst knowing people here, you can admit your problems........

ok, the 12v wont do anything unless the engine is running, and then you wont see any change in temp inside the fridge for at least 20mins of the engine running.......

on gas it must be level, and you dont say if you see the pilot light is alight.... you quite possibly have to press the gas volume knob in whilst switching the ignitor on and keep it pressed in for 10 seconds after its lit......

or like matt says, someone was too idle arsed to fit it properly, or listened to the scaremongers about using gas...

[1664]

When you switch the red gas ignition switch on does it 'flash'? If not there's is probably not 12v to it. It may be wired via a 'Zig' unit or other type of control panel so check the 12v switch is on on the panel and check any fuses in the panel. There may also be gas isolation valves somewhere so even if it does flash, there may not be any gas getting through.

[NeilC]

Sorry if I'm pointing out the obvious but the 12V gas ignition and the 12V heater are separate circuits.

You should be able to test the 12V operation by connecting up a good car battery and leaving it for several minutes, checking the element inside is cooling down. Be careful not to flatten the battery though.

Likewise you can test the gas ignition circuit - when powered up, flipping the switch should cause a neon light in the switch itself to flash accompanied by the click of the igniter a couple of times per second.

[fairwynds]

Doc F...
Ive got the original RM2200 handbook / instalation booklet here. PM me yr addy if you want me to send you a copy.
FW

[Doctor Foster]

Doc F...
Ive got the original RM2200 handbook / instalation booklet here. PM me yr addy if you want me to send you a copy.
FW

Hi FW. Have sent you PM

[Doctor Foster]

Ok, Ok its not a friends van its my dads!! He has a different fridge in his van compared to mine.

So what I should have explained in the first post was:

There is no spark or flashing from igniter/switch
Have since found a red wire heading up to the vans ignition switch though yet to trace the end of it.
Also found a disconnected red wire next to the starter battery positive post. Have connected it but get nothing.
Have checked for voltage at the fridge switches with the engine running and still get nowt.

There is a gas pipe connected to the fridge's gas inlet.

[1664]

Is there a control panel though? Even though you have a gas pipe connected there may still be an isolation valve. Any chance you can have a drive up to Coventry? I'm not working at the minute and don't mind having a look (although mines an Autohomes).

[Doctor Foster]

Is there a control panel though? Even though you have a gas pipe connected there may still be an isolation valve. Any chance you can have a drive up to Coventry? I'm not working at the minute and don't mind having a look (although mines an Autohomes).

There is a CF9 zig unit above the wardrobe door. Dont know much about these to be honest.
There are two isolation valves in the cupboard. One for the cooker and one for the fridge. Both seem ok and connected correctly.
The van is currently off the road at the moment but many thanks for the offer of taking a look at it.

[1664]

Right, let's go through this a step at a time. You say you have a Zig CF9 so I'm assuming it looks like this one (6th picture down in 80-90 member 'thebaldyman' post) here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46188" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It's not the same as my CF6 or a CF8 but I've enlarged the picture and although I can't quite make all the writing out I think I've got it sussed.

There are two switches on the LHS of the unit in the '12v' section. The one on the left is a simple 12v on/off and the one on the right I'm assuming switches between which battery you wish to use, or charge. Up is 'car' (van) battery and down is 'caravan' (leisure) battery.
When you switch the left switch down the LED below marked 'ON' should light up. One of the two LED's to the right in the 'Battery' section should also light up to indicate the charge of whichever battery the right switch is selecting.

This should be all that is required to energise the circuit to the fridge red ignition switch, so if you switch it on now it should 'flash'.

Assuming it does, let's check the gas. Turn the regulator valve on the gas bottle on, then turn all the van isolation valves on. Turn a ring on the cooker hob on and light it, this will confirm that you a) have gas in the bottle and b) that all the valves are open. It will also move gas into the system pipework so the fridge will get gas sooner. Turn the cooker off. (Obviously if the cooker won't light there's no gas or the valve(s) are in the wrong position.)

Rotate the gas knob on the fridge to position '3' and push the knob in and hold it there. Switch the ignition switch on and the switch will 'flash' and 'click' indicating that it is attempting to light the gas. Allow a minute for the gas to move through the final section of pipewrk to the burner and eventually you should hear a faint 'bhlump' as the burner ignites and the ignition switch should now stop flashing. You will have to keep the knob pressed in for 20-30 seconds as there is a safety thermocouple that has to heat up else as soon as you release the knob the gas will be cut off. (Safety Feature).

On some fridges there is a little round window in the bottom of the fridge through which you can see the gas flame but I don't think fridges with electronic ignition have this unfortunately.

Try all this and let me know how you get on, obviously if you don't get the switch flashing there's little point trying the rest until it's sorted. If all goes well, you're in business.

If you want I'll explain how the rest of the Zig works but let's get the fridge sorted first

[Doctor Foster]

Right, let's go through this a step at a time. You say you have a Zig CF9 so I'm assuming it looks like this one (6th picture down in 80-90 member 'thebaldyman' post) here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46188" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It's not the same as my CF6 or a CF8 but I've enlarged the picture and although I can't quite make all the writing out I think I've got it sussed.

There are two switches on the LHS of the unit in the '12v' section. The one on the left is a simple 12v on/off and the one on the right I'm assuming switches between which battery you wish to use, or charge. Up is 'car' (van) battery and down is 'caravan' (leisure) battery.
When you switch the left switch down the LED below marked 'ON' should light up. One of the two LED's to the right in the 'Battery' section should also light up to indicate the charge of whichever battery the right switch is selecting.

This should be all that is required to energise the circuit to the fridge red ignition switch, so if you switch it on now it should 'flash'.

Assuming it does, let's check the gas. Turn the regulator valve on the gas bottle on, then turn all the van isolation valves on. Turn a ring on the cooker hob on and light it, this will confirm that you a) have gas in the bottle and b) that all the valves are open. It will also move gas into the system pipework so the fridge will get gas sooner. Turn the cooker off. (Obviously if the cooker won't light there's no gas or the valve(s) are in the wrong position.)

Rotate the gas knob on the fridge to position '3' and push the knob in and hold it there. Switch the ignition switch on and the switch will 'flash' and 'click' indicating that it is attempting to light the gas. Allow a minute for the gas to move through the final section of pipewrk to the burner and eventually you should hear a faint 'bhlump' as the burner ignites and the ignition switch should now stop flashing. You will have to keep the knob pressed in for 20-30 seconds as there is a safety thermocouple that has to heat up else as soon as you release the knob the gas will be cut off. (Safety Feature).

On some fridges there is a little round window in the bottom of the fridge through which you can see the gas flame but I don't think fridges with electronic ignition have this unfortunately.

Try all this and let me know how you get on, obviously if you don't get the switch flashing there's little point trying the rest until it's sorted. If all goes well, you're in business.

If you want I'll explain how the rest of the Zig works but let's get the fridge sorted first

Yep its the same zig unit as in the picture. When the switch on the left is down the red led illuminates and the normal green led for battery level illuminates, so all is ok there. Unforunately the red fridge ignitor switch is doing nowt. The gas is ok as the cooker is working and the isolation valves are open so there should be gas entering the fridge just no spark!!

[pedro100]

thanks 1664, you have just answered all my questions too! just a quicky any tips on which sort of vents need to be used?

[1664]

Yep its the same zig unit as in the picture. When the switch on the left is down the red led illuminates and the normal green led for battery level illuminates, so all is ok there. Unforunately the red fridge ignitor switch is doing nowt. The gas is ok as the cooker is working and the isolation valves are open so there should be gas entering the fridge just no spark!!

Ok, so the Zig has 12v going to it (could be worse). In between the 'mains' section and the 'charger' section there are three 10amp circular cartridge fuse holders.Take these out one by one by pushing and twisting 90o to the left - they should slide out as they have a spring behind; yours are slotted so you may need a screwdriver but you can just use your finger sometimes. Each plastic fuse 'carrier' that pulls out will have a clear glass cartridge fuse held in it. Look closely at these and you should be able to see the fusewire running from end to end. If you can't see the wire then the fuse has ruptured (or you can test them with your meter). If you do find one that has ruptured you can 'borrow' one of the healthy ones (preferably not the camper lighting one if you're doing it at night) and insert it into the same position the ruptured one came from and try the ignition switch again NOTE - if the reason the fuse has ruptured is a short on the wiring then the 'borrowed' fuse will rupture too, but vibration/age may have been responsible. Try this and get back to me.


pedro100 I don't think it matters that much but do a 'Search' on "fridge vents" or start a new thread and someone will be able to help you

[Doctor Foster]

Fuses are ok. Checked with a meter. Something strange going on. How easy is it to take the fridge out so I can trace the wiring??