removing rear hub

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chickenkoop
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removing rear hub

Post by chickenkoop »

What size socket do i need to remove the large nut that is holding the rear hub on? :shock:

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kevtherev
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Post by kevtherev »

It sez in the wiki 46mm
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)

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chickenkoop
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Post by chickenkoop »

:D thanks, i'll try that size to remove the nut, I'm putting longer stud on the rear. again many thanks,

guz
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Post by guz »

46mm socket one end,
BFO fat bloke t'other.

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Tex Ritter
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Post by Tex Ritter »

If you encounter any problems with removing the nut...

Take the brake drum off, knock the old studs out, feed the new studs through the back of the hub flange and pull hard up using the wheel nuts (on backwards) and spacers.

TR
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diviy
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Post by diviy »

and also a big hammer and punch to smack back plate in a bit to fit studs
number 1590 i think!!!!

ROBS T25
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Post by ROBS T25 »

guz wrote:46mm socket one end,
BFO fat bloke t'other.

:rofl :rofl one in every street i reckon :lol:
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those who can count and those who cant!!!!!!!

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CovKid
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Post by CovKid »

Rob I've got one if you need one:)

ROBS T25
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Post by ROBS T25 »

my mate is 22st think he will sort it out if he dont then dont know what will (crane)?????
There are 3 kinds of people in this world.......
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Grun
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Re: removing rear hub

Post by Grun »

ROBS T25,
If your 22st mate doesn't turn up, try a bottle or trolley jack GENTLY on the end of a good 3/4inch square drive breaker bar, perhaps with a bit of wood or summat between the jack and bar. It worked so smoothly for me (a 10.5 stone geriatric wiv no mate).
Mark the slot on the nut that the split pin was originally in before removal, and tighten back up till the same slot aligns with the hole.
Easy Peasy
Mike
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Diamond Hell
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Post by Diamond Hell »

Rather better to PRESS the studs in properly, rather than risk pulling the threads on their first outing, by trying to wind them in on the nut.... just my opinion, is all.
Diamond Hell
Still Syncro, just much fasterer

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Tex Ritter
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Post by Tex Ritter »

Diamond Hell wrote:Rather better to PRESS the studs in properly, rather than risk pulling the threads on their first outing, by trying to wind them in on the nut.... just my opinion, is all.

The method I was referring to was to be used if the hub could not be removed.
TR
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tangalooma flyer
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Post by tangalooma flyer »

I've done it your way Tex, All you have to be aware of is lining up the splines on the new studs with the old spline slots which have been cut with old studs. I used an old nut [which I lobed when I finished] to screw them in. I also gave them a little blob of Loctite on the spline.

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Tex Ritter
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Post by Tex Ritter »

tangalooma flyer wrote:I've done it your way Tex, All you have to be aware of is lining up the splines on the new studs with the old spline slots which have been cut with old studs. I used an old nut [which I lobed when I finished] to screw them in. I also gave them a little blob of Loctite on the spline.

I should have mentioned aligning up of the splines!

Well done that man!

Tex Ritter
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Post by Simon Baxter »

Tex Ritter wrote:If you encounter any problems with removing the nut...

Take the brake drum off, knock the old studs out, feed the new studs through the back of the hub flange and pull hard up using the wheel nuts (on backwards) and spacers.

TR


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