westy water level meter

Post by **cooky73** » 27 Apr 2006, 17:30

mine is stuck on orange so I have removed the "dipper" thingy with wires on it

any idea how you can test if it is working?

Post by **simoncummins** » 27 Apr 2006, 19:12

Hi mine is just the same they seem to work on three micro switches on the thing in the tank if you move the grey float up and down the stick thing you can just and i mean just hear the switches click i have messed and messed and not got it to work properley. Some times two lights work some times one stays on. So you should get three clicks one at the bottom one half way one at the top let me know if you have any luck but its the least of my problems as the engine in mine is very broken.

Post by **pkm** » 27 Apr 2006, 19:41

To check the 'dipper' measure the resistance, with a multimeter, with the float at different posistions. It should have high resitiance at one end, 0 restance at the other & medium in the middle.

If this isn't the case then the dipper is knackered (possibly repairable). Mine was - due to a small hole which had let water in & coroded the internal components.

If the dipper seems ok it mat be the control panel that's at fault. To check the control panel you can make up a lead with a variable resistor connecting the two ends. From memory you'll need a large resistance - I think I used 12Mohms - but you should be able to work out the neccessary value from the dipper.

Plug the variable resistance lead in where the dipper would go. Turn the variable resistor from one extreme to the other - the lights should go from green to orange to red.

Of course I only figured this out after splashing out on a brand new control panel!

Paul

Post by **cooky73** » 28 Apr 2006, 08:55

Thanks guys - mine has just come back from having a new engine as well!

The resitance seems to be stuck on a single value - will have a mess with it tonight.

If the dipper is bust anyone know the best place to get a new one?

Post by **pkm** » 28 Apr 2006, 12:02

Internally the dipper is pretty simple - it's just a strip of copper coated board, a couple of reed switches & a couple of resisters. So repairing it should be feasible.

Paul

Post by **lhd** » 02 May 2006, 09:31

try here they may be able to help....

http://www.vw-busworld.de/
lhd................................................