Would some kindly soul please tell me what size and type the CV bolts are on a 1989 DG please ? i.e. are they - mm hex socket heads or 'T--' spline heads and would long-reach bits be a help ? And is there any mileage in 'obtaining' stainless ones to replace the originals when they're taken out.
I'm just tooling up for future requirements,I have most of the combinations but you can guarantee not the right one !
Cheers,Ian.
CV Joint Bolt Size
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Ian Hulley
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CV Joint Bolt Size
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
CV bolts sizes
These are often 6mm hex, but I did find the splines on an older van.
The probelm is usually with them coming loose as it is hard to get the torque on them. You need hex sockets extensions and a torque wrench for the outers.
I had no probelem getting these off, as long as th eheads were clean.
The probelm is usually with them coming loose as it is hard to get the torque on them. You need hex sockets extensions and a torque wrench for the outers.
I had no probelem getting these off, as long as th eheads were clean.
Believe nothing you hear and only half of what you see.
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Ian Hulley
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"Kamper"
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Dont use stainless on high stress applications such as this-it is far too brittle. When I changed mine, the originals were hex head. New replacements tend all to be splined. Not sure of the sizes. Also, make sure that the lockwashers are good, or renew them, and use loctite on the threads.
Kind regards
John
"KAMPER"
Member 1630
1981 Autohomes Kamper
1996 T4 Karmann Gipsy
John
"KAMPER"
Member 1630
1981 Autohomes Kamper
1996 T4 Karmann Gipsy
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Diamond Hell
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Earlier originals were Hex, laters were splined.
When removing bolts ensure you clean the bolt heads out and insert the bit fully into the bolt. You shouldn't have any problems, but a tap will help it seat properly.
I use a short bit in a 10mm socket, with 3/8" extension bars, as appropriate. Torque is 35NM and you should apply some thread lock to the bolts.
I did think that the hex were better and less likely to slip, but having dealt with both extensively I'd plump for splines every time now.
When removing bolts ensure you clean the bolt heads out and insert the bit fully into the bolt. You shouldn't have any problems, but a tap will help it seat properly.
I use a short bit in a 10mm socket, with 3/8" extension bars, as appropriate. Torque is 35NM and you should apply some thread lock to the bolts.
I did think that the hex were better and less likely to slip, but having dealt with both extensively I'd plump for splines every time now.
Diamond Hell
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
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Blingpanzer
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They're still available from VW, and fairly cheap considering their high spec (about £9 for 12). It's not a fixing to skimp on!
Don't forget the tiny serrated washers; they're vital for retaining the tightening torque. Also make sure that the spline drive tool is pushed firmly home before you start tightening, or you'll strip the outer portion of the splines. I tap it in with a tack hammer to ensure it's fully seated before I fit the socket drive.
Don't forget the tiny serrated washers; they're vital for retaining the tightening torque. Also make sure that the spline drive tool is pushed firmly home before you start tightening, or you'll strip the outer portion of the splines. I tap it in with a tack hammer to ensure it's fully seated before I fit the socket drive.
Blingpanzer
Membership Number 2035
1983 Caravelle DG 5-speed driveway ornament
Membership Number 2035
1983 Caravelle DG 5-speed driveway ornament
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Anonymous
Bolts are M8X1.25. Can't remember what length is from the top of my head but they're high tensile so don't go throwing anything in there or you'll snap them the first time you try to torque them up.
I've fitted splined ones on my syncro instead of the original allen bolts. Much easier to work with.
MG
I've fitted splined ones on my syncro instead of the original allen bolts. Much easier to work with.
MG
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Anonymous
but there are more 
12 point spline, can't remember if 7 or 8 but can check... definitely better than hex in the long run if, as everyone says, they are cleaned out and the bit tapped in.
Rears given as M8x48 (polygon socket head!)
Syncro front inners given as M8x50 (there is a washer/spacer plate diff side of the joint)
Both rear and front inners known to loosen - if you hear a knocking that varies with speed, stop and check them.
Rears given as M8x48 (polygon socket head!)
Syncro front inners given as M8x50 (there is a washer/spacer plate diff side of the joint)
Both rear and front inners known to loosen - if you hear a knocking that varies with speed, stop and check them.
Last edited by HarryMann on 02 Nov 2005, 11:14, edited 1 time in total.
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Ian Hulley
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