Front Wheel Bearings

Post by **futbus** » 23 Mar 2006, 17:24

I know that they are nothing like the 2wd but more like a golf front wheel drive, but I want to put longer studs in the front hubs, but this means detroying the bearings. Are they changed the same way, ie weld around the inner edge to shrink the cage before driving it out?

The problem is that GSF dont sell them, and vw need a part number and i dont have Etka or similar.

Wheels off for powder coating and back monday, so once tyres on want to put on wheels ready for Coney Farm.

Need to sort ideally before weekend.

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 23 Mar 2006, 18:00

Speak to Aidan Mustard Pot/Beaker, I think he has various bit of info about suppliers for them....

Post by **syncroandy** » 23 Mar 2006, 19:55

Yes Aidan may have the FAG pn. for the bearing. You may also want to renew the inner and outer rubber seals, and there's a big circlip too:

Bearing (x2) 251 407 625
Seal (x4) 251 407 629
Circlip (x2) N 012 350 1

The bearing need to be pressed in/out in the right way, so as not to put pressure on the inner race. I think it can only be done properly by taking out the whole hub carrier. Do you *really* need longer studs ?

Post by **Russel** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:37

The bearings do need to be pressed out and in.And u need to strip
the hub of to do this.
The circlip will come with the bearing but the seals are seperate.
The bearings (depending on supplyer) are about £50each, the seals are about
£20 each
Ure lockal dealer will have to order them in for u thoug as this is no longer
a stock item.

Post by **futbus** » 24 Mar 2006, 08:43

Thanks for all the info on this, most useful. I`ll give my local bearing shop a call and see if they can help.

I have managed to get another set of alloys onto original studs with 10 of the treads used but still four exposed on the inner side of the nuts. If the new alloys hold with no less than 10 threads then i`ll be happy for now but look at changing them at some time soon. Just need the van done by next weekend.

see you all later.

Post by **syncroandy** » 24 Mar 2006, 09:02

On the FAG website, you can search their 'Bearing Interchange Database'.

A search for *251407*, yields one match:

NA/FAG designation: 527243 (FAG)

replaced by:

type code: L16002 Angular contact ball bearing, wheel brg. 1st generation, double row
dimensions: 42.000 x 80.000 x 42.000 mm
remark: SCHRAEKULA 2-RHG.M.GET .JR+2-DICHTSCH.ABM.42X80X42

identical

company: VAG
designation: 251407625
remark: RADLAGER, TRANSP.+STEYR-DAIMLE R-PUCH-FAHRZEUG

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Mar 2006, 11:57

10 threads are fine, the 1st 4 do all the work, the rest in a supporting role. My alloys mean the nuts don't 'quite' go right on,, small dish left that i smear a bit of grease into after torqueing up... just keep a regular eye on them and ensure clean and torqued up to about right value (100~ 110 ft-lb from memory). Use correct nuts (taper shape) for the type of wheel.

Post by **futbus** » 24 Mar 2006, 16:33

Hi all, I have managed to find a supplier for the bearings and can get as many as required, just hoping to sort the seals and the circlip from the same source.

Does anyone else need any whilst i`m ordering? We will be at Coney farm and should be able to get them before, and bring them with us. Prices to be confirmed but depends on the amount I order, a discount on 10 or more.

I should have the first set on monday, so confirm then, but please let us know before then as i can sort price then.

We can also fit if required for those that dont have access to the right equipment.

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Mar 2006, 18:35

Nice offer, thanks.

Think one of mine 'might' not be quite right, but having done just about everything apart from the engine since I bought it (not joking, speedo drive in diff today

) I'm going to leave that bearing till I know for sure it's iffy.

Think that the front bearings don't go that often, so don't hold your breath for lots of orders. Others more knowledgeable may correct me...

Post by **Ray** » 24 Mar 2006, 18:46

Clive, you were able then to get a speedo drive alright. I had to get one last year and there was one of the right type in the country and it was in bedford. Expensive though aren't they
Ray
2.1 dj syncro
#0094

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Mar 2006, 18:57

Ray,

I stripped two other diffs I have, both 5.43s and one was appalling, been right mullered around the boss and roll-pin area, so expected a stripped gear to come out...

It did.

Second one, helluva job driving out roll-pin but gear assembly as good as perfict, so thats the one I put in today. Had to 'devise' a good solid extension to my 5mm drift, but managed it in the end, and shall be writing it up for de Wikipendium thingy. You obviously approached it the right way, with care and cunning, or did you have the diff out at the time?

Think Aidan said they're about £80, and you can't buy just the gear anymore, whole assembly only.

Post by **Ray** » 24 Mar 2006, 20:20

I had a nightmare driving the pin out. I didn't realise it was a roll pin and used a small drift which just drove the dirt out. The assembly would not come out so the bloke next door made up a puller for me which of course just broke the housing. I repaired that with araldite which is still OK after nearly a year and even after having a new vc fitted! The assembly cost £110 from wayside! Now I know what these roll pin are like todays one in the diff lock came out easily with the correct size drift
Ray
2.1 dj syncro
#0094

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Mar 2006, 20:31

Ah! Sorry to dredge up a troublemsome saga then Ray.

I mole-gripped it , got a good purchase, made sure it would rotate both ways a bit and then used same grip to lever it outwards... mullered the thread though, but knew the unit was knackered and they come as whole these days.

5mm for that one and 3mm for the difflocks. Too small and just tries to expand the roll-pin creating more bedlam. Even a genuine 4.8mm wouldn't budge it, so ground a one down to 5mm exactly, ground a*** end so it fitted in a long 1/2" sq. extension, wrapped a bit of masking tape around it to make it really snug, and then I could finally get a good blow from a club hammer on it...

Now that seems to be the trick... dead in line as poss (though not really possible on front diff) and a really hearty blow, anything less leaves it cold.

Well, we've done that to death, so thanks for the frank account, will get to copying some of this over to the Wiki - save some other poor sod a nightmare in a year or two

A hundred and how much? Beats me why they strip in the first place, seems a nice, neat design. Must be the accelaration Ray, speedo can't keep up