Copperslip on exhaust studs, Yes or No

Post by **Red Westie** » 10 Nov 2008, 14:45

Quote...Not using studs but anti seize bolts......
Then use some spring washers or they will be dropping out.
It is also going to be a tad dificult keeping the gaskets in place without the studs to locate them.

Martin

Post by **ghost123uk** » 11 Nov 2008, 09:58

Red Westie wrote:Quote...Not using studs but anti seize bolts......
Then use some spring washers or they will be dropping out.
It is also going to be a tad dificult keeping the gaskets in place without the studs to locate them.

Martin

Cheers for the "heads up" Martin

I got the gaskets and the system on without too much fuss ( I am using the older exhaust system as it was a lot cheaper to buy new !! )

I will get some split washers and fit them on the next nice day.

It's 10:00 am on Tuesday and I am off now to fill with oil and fire it up.

Fingers crossed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

.

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Nov 2008, 10:48

Hehe...

Never in the field of human conflict did so many talk about so little...

PS. Simple split spring washers are not usually specified for exhaust manifolds (they're generally frowned on in many other applications now too)
VW never fitted them, using either locking nuts with thick washers on the diesel manifolds or concave washers on the flat fours.

Post by **Syncro G** » 11 Nov 2008, 15:30

HarryMann wrote:Hehe...

Never in the field of human conflict did so many talk about so little...

PS. Simple split spring washers are not usually specified for exhaust manifolds (they're generally frowned on in many other applications now too)
VW never fitted them, using either locking nuts with thick washers on the diesel manifolds or concave washers on the flat fours.

Would they be spring locknuts or something rather than the now common Nylocks? A few years ago I made the mistake of Nylocking a manifold I got anoyed with (kept rattleing the bolts out) but I then descovered it takes 3 miles to melt the nylon bit (with lots of smoke) and another 10 to get rid of the smell

.

Post by **lloyd** » 11 Nov 2008, 15:47

Syncro G wrote:A few years ago I made the mistake of Nylocking a manifold I got anoyed with (kept rattleing the bolts out) but I then descovered it takes 3 miles to melt the nylon bit (with lots of smoke) and another 10 to get rid of the smell .

Did that once myself... on a race engine... running on a short course off road track... Everybody watching.

Was very very humbling experience.

Post by **Mr Bean** » 11 Nov 2008, 16:36

Red Westie wrote:Quote...Not using studs but anti seize bolts......
Then use some spring washers or they will be dropping out.
It is also going to be a tad dificult keeping the gaskets in place without the studs to locate them.

Martin

To be honest I find that the non specialised metric system of fixings rather loosely equates to the old whitworth but just a tad finer. So what you finish up with is an almost self locking threadform at around eight mm. You don't see Dexion fixings with locknuts or washers do you. So I don't bother with locking and mine hasn't fallen off yet. Mind you it is obvious that long dangly bits (which I ain't got) need proper support. As for corrosion I do use stainless and being a born scrounger I have got some from a chap who run a street furniture firm (lamposts etc) and also found a nice selection on Tavistock indoor market while visiting SWIMBO's sister on (not in although....) Dartmoor. However my Aerospace background tells me that SS should be Cadmium plated and Pasivated if use in Aluminium. Not that you can use Cadmium plating nowadays according to the save the world as if it ain't too late already lobby. The problem with bolts can be that you are using (wearing) the high value thread in the head rather than the replaceable thread on a stud. Of course you could argue that he exhaust should only be removed very few times in the life of an engine so you can take your choice on that one. I would suggest that if your exhaust hasn't been off lately you should plan to do some fixing when it does need to come off and it won't necessarily be a quick squirt with plus gas.
Cheers
Wolfie

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Nov 2008, 18:01

Would they be spring locknuts or something rather than the now common Nylocks?

Glen, if you're asking if the diesel locknuts are nylocs.. nah, you can't be, so I've got that wrong

The VW diesel nuts are clever flanged lock nuts... all steel.

.. and if BobsawHack is a round, he'd tell us that the electrolytic potential between aluminium and stainless can be very large! Maybe CS ameliorates it a bit, but you don't normally put that on studs into heads.

If it weren't for the heat you'd use this between Ally and Stainless you'd (I would) use this stuff...https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... n_compound

Maybe Mocki's the only one with a pot of the right stuff, pot in this case be a container