diff lock - spring pins

Post by **msr** » 26 Oct 2008, 10:12

Just taken starter out of my 16" DJ. I did this on another bus 5 years ago but had forgotton the pain. Almost makes me want to put a TDi in just so I never have to do it again.
I suppose at least with this syncro there's virtually zero rust so makes it easier.

Due to the adverse weather, bad mode, dark, lack of a jack, wind, mud and the fact that it was 11.30pm I managed to lose the little spring pin that connects the difflock actuator to the plunger (again!). Any ideas where i might get some of these (and the size?) without waiting to order them from VW?

Just need to get the bush out of the housing somehow and then I'd like to put it together today (sunday) but looks like it's not going to happen without that pin.

Cheers
Matt - Sheffield

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 26 Oct 2008, 10:27

Do you mean the roll pin, you can substitute it for other things, cant remember what, but something like a panel pin, then change it another time. Mine is running on a small nail, and has been fine for last year and inumerable diff lock actuations.

The roll pin goes in that little hole below.

Post by **msr** » 26 Oct 2008, 10:51

yes that's the tem I was looking for:- "roll-pin"

If I can wait till tomorrow I'll try and find one in sheffield now that I know the technical term. Otherwise I'll join you with a cut off nail.

Last time I refitted one of these I also replaced the long thin bolts holding the actuator onto the bracket with bits of stiff wire bent over at each end. Makes it much easier to get the actuator off again without removing the driveshaft... Just replace the wire every time.

cheers

matt

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 26 Oct 2008, 13:13

Taken from the wiki

Spring-pin (roll-pin) (3dia. x 10mm) - (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Oct 2008, 13:46

Yes, must be 3 mm x 10 mm, maybe 8 or 12mm length might do..

Don't nip up the the actuator to the bracket until after the roll-pin has been inserted

Post by **msr** » 26 Oct 2008, 17:53

just found it in the mud with a kids metal detector! Probably lose it when I'm putting it in anyway and it'll be back to the nail.

It's nice on this van how when u push the rod it glides smoothly out without having to spend several hours trying to free it. At least somethings going right

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Oct 2008, 17:59

Hold it with long nosed pliers and give it a pretty sharp whack with a toffee hammer into the hole to get it started. Push the actuator rod fully home and then finish the job with the hammer

Fiddly little thing that it is

Post by **dave friday** » 26 Oct 2008, 18:57

3mm split pin?

Post by **HarryMann** » 26 Oct 2008, 20:20

Yup.., but you don't want them catching on the hose/bellows whatever you use to shield it from sh*t

5mm split pins for the mounting bracket, PeteP does that to allow a wee bit of slack to keep the thing freed up ?

Post by **Ye Olde Syncrospares** » 27 Oct 2008, 08:39

blob of copperslip.

Post by **Syncro G** » 28 Oct 2008, 00:06

I take it it didn't play for having an MOT on friday then? I'm starting the reserection on mine tomorrow!

Post by **msr** » 28 Oct 2008, 18:10

New starter fitted after lots of swearing, must get a jack! Started first time. Also replaced braded engine earth strap to be sure. Then cut out half the ambulance wiring and very suprised it still started!, bit like defusing a bomb... which wires to cut?
Bulkhead now out, MOT now this friday and then next will weld in some cross braces where high-top roll hoops used to be.

Glen good luck with the van. Give me a shout if you need some cursing doing.

Glen or any one with a normalish tin top....
I'm just trying to work out where to weld in my cross beams and want to know what the normal height is inside a tin top as a reference. I'm after the internal vertical measurement from steel floor to middle point of hoop behind sliding door? (or roof linning would do) Difficult to be sure from the specs. ...

cheers

matt

Post by **HarryMann** » 28 Oct 2008, 18:32

New starter fitted after lots of swearing, must get a jack!

Get a good high-lift farm jack, the LR adapter and a strong pair of axle stands, done!

Post by **msr** » 28 Oct 2008, 18:57

Got a proper jackall from pinzgauer days. Never used it, pretty hard to get a pinny stuck! I didn't know it could be used on a T3. Wouldn't want to carry it all the time as so big and heavy but would be good for some situations. Does landy adaptor just fit into normal T3 jacking points?

matt

Post by **HarryMann** » 28 Oct 2008, 19:11

Yup, it does.. think its a Disco adapter, just a round bar in a fitting that goes over the foot, prob. about 1 1/4" dia.

Does take up space yes, is heavy, but lays along one dropside in Doka loadbed. Funny as had a valve centre pop out yesterday, had the wheel changed in about ten minutes with it...

It's that or a small cheap trolley jack I also carry, but chose that... gets it right up in no time, provided well chocked from rolling about...