when you say you cant get to them, do you mean you dont have the tools to get in where you need to?
you have taken the pulleys off??
i think i used a 1/4 drive extension bar, with two UJ joints and a 1/4 allen socket.......
Probably easy but i m stuck
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ermie571
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Guess what!!!
Been a busy day....Mark and John have worked their socks off.....in 5.5 hours they have
a) changed the water pump,
b) removed and replaced the main metal water pipe
c) removed and replaced the thermostat housing
d) replaced all the leaking pipes
Not filled it up yet as need new thermoswitch
Twas a bit sticky in places, but NO rusted in bolts, NO sheared bolts, NO bolts left over, and they still have all their fingers!!
Worst bit by all accounts was getting the allen key bolts out round the water pump.....but a 6mm fixing on a socket loosened them up fairly easily.
Em
x
Been a busy day....Mark and John have worked their socks off.....in 5.5 hours they have
a) changed the water pump,
b) removed and replaced the main metal water pipe
c) removed and replaced the thermostat housing
d) replaced all the leaking pipes
Not filled it up yet as need new thermoswitch
Twas a bit sticky in places, but NO rusted in bolts, NO sheared bolts, NO bolts left over, and they still have all their fingers!!
Worst bit by all accounts was getting the allen key bolts out round the water pump.....but a 6mm fixing on a socket loosened them up fairly easily.
Em
x
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
Good Sunday then, likewise here, despite the drizzle
Hope all goes well when you fill 'er up and turn that key!
No rush on writing it up, just a few notes on any sepcial problems that you came across would be fine
And the reason it all was done...
Cheers
Hope all goes well when you fill 'er up and turn that key!
No rush on writing it up, just a few notes on any sepcial problems that you came across would be fine
And the reason it all was done...
Cheers
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
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ermie571
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Harrymann...
is this any good?
Changing water pump, metal water pipe and thermostat housing 2.1 carb
Can't remember it all, but here goes anyway.
Why we did it.
The work was done due to a small water leak from a rubber hose (looked like spring clip had worn the pipe), and having the parts to replace bits that were currently working, but of an age where replacement was preventative. NB 2.1 thermostat housings are no obselete from VW and JustKampers. 1.9 housings do not have connections for the oil cooler. My metal water pipe had been repaired many times, and looked very rusty. The water pump was fine, and will be boxed up as a spare. Again, the 2.1 water pump has additional connection for the oil cooler that isn't present on 1.9 - but Mocki suggested that there may be an optional spigot...best to ring supplier and check! The thermostat housing has four bolts - on mine one just turned, so a replacement was useful. The old one will be repaired if possible and kept as a spare.
Started by reading Haynes for some guidance
We didn't go under the van at all! There may have been some bits where it would have been easier, but the road was soaking from the rain and the remnants of the water from the engine. Had emptied much coolant day before.
Tools used
a) Rachet spanner with 13mm socket. Short extension bar for same. Just a note - We had a rachet spanner, but Mark had one with a smaller movement on the handle necessary to make the bolt move. This worked better than ours on the water pump bolts as the access isn't exactly easy!
b) 13mm ring spanner, and open ended spanner
c) 6mm allen key, and a 6mm allen key hex socket
d) Long nose pliers, blunt nose pliers and circlip pliers (for removing spring clips)
e) Selection of flat head screwdrivers for removing jubilee clips. Can also use a 7mm socket on some jubilee clips instead of screwdriver - this down to personal preference.
1. Start by loosening the three bolts on the water pump pulley. We left the fan belt on (against the advice of Haynes) as I held the belt while John undid the bolts - 13mm ring spanner (used one with flexi head). Me holding the belt stopped the pulley turning!
2. Once all the bolts are loosened, go round and remove each one. Pulley comes off in two pieces and is held on with 3 bolts and spring washers. Once pulley is off, remove the fan belt. Best practice is to replace with a new one, and keep the old one for spare.(We didn't take off the big pulley on the engine)
3. As we were doing all the watery bits on the left hand side of the engine, we went round and loosened all the jubilee clips etc we could get to.
4. There is a metal water pipe that runs off from the bottom of the front of the water pump as you are looking at it to the right hand side of the engine. We did have a new pipe for this as well.....so we undid the bolts at the end of the pipe as they were easier than the bolts on the water pump to get to.....but we needn't have bothered cos that pipe wont come out while still attached to the water pump anyway!
5. Getting the allen key bolts off was difficult. There are several dotted round the cooling system. You need a 6mm allen key. We did some with a 6mm allen socket attachment where we could get access (made life much easier). But the ones on the metal pipe on the front of the water pump were done with a standard allen key. The standard key gave enough leverage, and the bolts came out without too much bother. The most annoying thing was the small movement on each turn.......it took quite a while to keep removing and replacing the allen key!
6. We had a mixture of jubilee clips and the VW spring clips. Do yourself a favour, and get a GOOD set of circlip pliers. The set we got from halfwits gave up the ghost on the first clip..... However, they will come off with pliers - Mark found that the long nose pliers worked best.
7. We found that all our bolts were pretty rusty....so if you are able to plan this repair....get new bolts ready to replace. Our replacements had the bolts with them (nice shiny new ones!). For those not so lucky, here are the part numbers provided by Harrymann:
N 014 709 1 M8x22 (hex head) 2 off
N 090 709 1 M8x25Z3 (hex head(combi)) 2 off (pipe to thermostat)
8. Also useful to have new gaskets. There is a O ring in the waterpump that should also be renewed.
9. Putting it all back was pretty much the opposite of removal, with the only difference being that we put the pulley back on (Haynes has the torque settings for the bolts), then put the fan belt on. To do this, you have to loosen two bolts on the alternator, one at the top on the slider bracket, and the one on the bottom right, to allow it to swing. Again, 13mm spanner (you may need two, as the bottom bolt has a 13mm nut at the back). Loosen bolts and push alternator towards water pump. Place fan belt over the pulleys, pull alternator back until belt tension is achieved, then tighten bolt on slidey bracket. NB - useful to have someone to help here - one holds the alternator and one does up the bolt. But it is do-able on your own). Then tighten other alternator belt.
Hope this helps someone - and sorry for lack of photos.
is this any good?
Changing water pump, metal water pipe and thermostat housing 2.1 carb
Can't remember it all, but here goes anyway.
Why we did it.
The work was done due to a small water leak from a rubber hose (looked like spring clip had worn the pipe), and having the parts to replace bits that were currently working, but of an age where replacement was preventative. NB 2.1 thermostat housings are no obselete from VW and JustKampers. 1.9 housings do not have connections for the oil cooler. My metal water pipe had been repaired many times, and looked very rusty. The water pump was fine, and will be boxed up as a spare. Again, the 2.1 water pump has additional connection for the oil cooler that isn't present on 1.9 - but Mocki suggested that there may be an optional spigot...best to ring supplier and check! The thermostat housing has four bolts - on mine one just turned, so a replacement was useful. The old one will be repaired if possible and kept as a spare.
Started by reading Haynes for some guidance
We didn't go under the van at all! There may have been some bits where it would have been easier, but the road was soaking from the rain and the remnants of the water from the engine. Had emptied much coolant day before.
Tools used
a) Rachet spanner with 13mm socket. Short extension bar for same. Just a note - We had a rachet spanner, but Mark had one with a smaller movement on the handle necessary to make the bolt move. This worked better than ours on the water pump bolts as the access isn't exactly easy!
b) 13mm ring spanner, and open ended spanner
c) 6mm allen key, and a 6mm allen key hex socket
d) Long nose pliers, blunt nose pliers and circlip pliers (for removing spring clips)
e) Selection of flat head screwdrivers for removing jubilee clips. Can also use a 7mm socket on some jubilee clips instead of screwdriver - this down to personal preference.
1. Start by loosening the three bolts on the water pump pulley. We left the fan belt on (against the advice of Haynes) as I held the belt while John undid the bolts - 13mm ring spanner (used one with flexi head). Me holding the belt stopped the pulley turning!
2. Once all the bolts are loosened, go round and remove each one. Pulley comes off in two pieces and is held on with 3 bolts and spring washers. Once pulley is off, remove the fan belt. Best practice is to replace with a new one, and keep the old one for spare.(We didn't take off the big pulley on the engine)
3. As we were doing all the watery bits on the left hand side of the engine, we went round and loosened all the jubilee clips etc we could get to.
4. There is a metal water pipe that runs off from the bottom of the front of the water pump as you are looking at it to the right hand side of the engine. We did have a new pipe for this as well.....so we undid the bolts at the end of the pipe as they were easier than the bolts on the water pump to get to.....but we needn't have bothered cos that pipe wont come out while still attached to the water pump anyway!
5. Getting the allen key bolts off was difficult. There are several dotted round the cooling system. You need a 6mm allen key. We did some with a 6mm allen socket attachment where we could get access (made life much easier). But the ones on the metal pipe on the front of the water pump were done with a standard allen key. The standard key gave enough leverage, and the bolts came out without too much bother. The most annoying thing was the small movement on each turn.......it took quite a while to keep removing and replacing the allen key!
6. We had a mixture of jubilee clips and the VW spring clips. Do yourself a favour, and get a GOOD set of circlip pliers. The set we got from halfwits gave up the ghost on the first clip..... However, they will come off with pliers - Mark found that the long nose pliers worked best.
7. We found that all our bolts were pretty rusty....so if you are able to plan this repair....get new bolts ready to replace. Our replacements had the bolts with them (nice shiny new ones!). For those not so lucky, here are the part numbers provided by Harrymann:
N 014 709 1 M8x22 (hex head) 2 off
N 090 709 1 M8x25Z3 (hex head(combi)) 2 off (pipe to thermostat)
8. Also useful to have new gaskets. There is a O ring in the waterpump that should also be renewed.
9. Putting it all back was pretty much the opposite of removal, with the only difference being that we put the pulley back on (Haynes has the torque settings for the bolts), then put the fan belt on. To do this, you have to loosen two bolts on the alternator, one at the top on the slider bracket, and the one on the bottom right, to allow it to swing. Again, 13mm spanner (you may need two, as the bottom bolt has a 13mm nut at the back). Loosen bolts and push alternator towards water pump. Place fan belt over the pulleys, pull alternator back until belt tension is achieved, then tighten bolt on slidey bracket. NB - useful to have someone to help here - one holds the alternator and one does up the bolt. But it is do-able on your own). Then tighten other alternator belt.
Hope this helps someone - and sorry for lack of photos.
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
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ermie571
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Jutstar,
perhaps you could give your experience too....especially with the bolts you found troublsome, and how you got round it? You were actually doing the work, whereas I was "hindering" (there isn't room for three around the engine bay) and making tea...and faffing in the van, and talking to Ruth...and making bcon butties.....
Em
x
perhaps you could give your experience too....especially with the bolts you found troublsome, and how you got round it? You were actually doing the work, whereas I was "hindering" (there isn't room for three around the engine bay) and making tea...and faffing in the van, and talking to Ruth...and making bcon butties.....
Em
x
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
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VWCamperfan
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VWCamperfan
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ermie571
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VWCamperfan wrote:Nahh, thats no good Em....!
You forgot the bit where you gave me a couple of replacement struts for me rear door to keep me and John dry in the rain!
Wouldn't have done it otherwise!
oh yeah.....
just before you start putting it all back, and the rain picks up, you need to get a second van with dodgy struts to reverse up to your open hatch....then you go down the garage, grab a handful of struts, and replace the dodgy struts. This then gives you double the working space, in the dry! Keeps the rain out of the tea, too
Thanks for all your help today, mate, and you are very welcome to the struts!!!
Em
x
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
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VWCamperfan
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