Ok,follow on from my stuttering thread..it died on me completly about 500 metres from my house this morning,at first wouldnt fire at all,then after a while it would fire and die,
Walked back and took other car to work
Started up first time when i got back from work but still tried to die under acceleration
Just had it running on the drive and removed airbox to make sure choke was working,it is,awful lot of oil in the airbox and around the carb though
Large breather hose to airbox smoking alot,should it be?
Im lost now.any help gratefully recieved
Or anyone know of any good T25 garages in the Bath/Bristol area?
Doing my nut in
More engine woes
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Thomas (DH) or Mark (Mudlark ) and others can advise on garages in Bristol/Bath
Sounds like she's breathing bad
piston/ring blowby
But this shouldn't stop her in tracks per se, unless upsetting something else.
Have you checked carb-icing re previous threads, electric carb heater and exh. manifold cowl thingy. Were conditions good for icing? Near freezing with high rel. humidity?
Sounds like she's breathing bad
piston/ring blowby But this shouldn't stop her in tracks per se, unless upsetting something else.
Have you checked carb-icing re previous threads, electric carb heater and exh. manifold cowl thingy. Were conditions good for icing? Near freezing with high rel. humidity?
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syncroand101
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Diamond Hell
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when it's been standing if you take the oil filler cap off and sniff, can you smell petrol?
Otherwise - worn rings is what it might well be, or other similar woes.
If you want someone worth a damn for servicing and pretty much all things bus-like in Bristol talk to Arthur at MAD workshops - http://www.mad-workshop.com/ - top bloke and knows his stuff. Tell him Thomas Diamond Hell sent you.
There's also another place out East that Steve Pimpdriver has used who are supposed to be quite good, but I think they're a bit more car-oriented.....
Otherwise - worn rings is what it might well be, or other similar woes.
If you want someone worth a damn for servicing and pretty much all things bus-like in Bristol talk to Arthur at MAD workshops - http://www.mad-workshop.com/ - top bloke and knows his stuff. Tell him Thomas Diamond Hell sent you.
There's also another place out East that Steve Pimpdriver has used who are supposed to be quite good, but I think they're a bit more car-oriented.....
Diamond Hell
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
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trundletruc
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Stuttering when cold
Is the accelerator pump working? presuming its a carb model? This will also have a effect if the engine is hot. If it is only stuttering when cold then try:-
There is a manifold heater under the carb on the DG engine which is controlled by the switch in the water tube that goes over the top of the engine. When the engine is cold there should be current going to the heater wire that comes from under the manifold. This is then switched off when the engine gets warm.
There is also a pull down vacuum thing that opens the choke flap when you put your foot down on the accelerator on the Pierberg carb. It shows you how to adjust this in the Haynes manual. If it does't open, the engine gets too much fuel and dies.
But then you may have a diesel and all the above will be useless!!
There is a manifold heater under the carb on the DG engine which is controlled by the switch in the water tube that goes over the top of the engine. When the engine is cold there should be current going to the heater wire that comes from under the manifold. This is then switched off when the engine gets warm.
There is also a pull down vacuum thing that opens the choke flap when you put your foot down on the accelerator on the Pierberg carb. It shows you how to adjust this in the Haynes manual. If it does't open, the engine gets too much fuel and dies.
But then you may have a diesel and all the above will be useless!!
Trundletruc 1984 DG-DJ Devon Moonraker
Right,oil doesnt smell of petrol,level looks sound also,will test feed to under carb heater
How can i check the accelerator pump?..on top of the carb there is little curved brass pipe pointing down the venturi,is this from acc pump?...should it be squirting fuel when i throttle up?
Thanks all
BTW its feckin brass monkeys outside
How can i check the accelerator pump?..on top of the carb there is little curved brass pipe pointing down the venturi,is this from acc pump?...should it be squirting fuel when i throttle up?
Thanks all
BTW its feckin brass monkeys outside
Right..have current to under carb heater,
with airbox off when i accelerate there is nice squirt of fuel down carb so i presume acc pump working ok,
Whilst it was warming up if i moved the choke flap open with my finger engine would die and i got hit with ice coming out of carb!!
When warmed up and with airbox back on it idled ok,so must be carb icing yes?
with airbox off when i accelerate there is nice squirt of fuel down carb so i presume acc pump working ok,
Whilst it was warming up if i moved the choke flap open with my finger engine would die and i got hit with ice coming out of carb!!
When warmed up and with airbox back on it idled ok,so must be carb icing yes?
...just dont know how to cure it though 
sorry....
or set fire to the van...thats what i feel like doing Maybe check that although voltage is going to carb manifold heater, heater is heating (it takes current and hasn't blown open circuit, not know if this likely)...
No chance area around engine is getting excessively damp in mornngs, big cold metal engine cover, etc. Wtaer collecing asnywhere near intake.. if both exhaust heater and manifold lecy heater working OK, then doubt you shoudl ahev problem as VW would have done all this to solve an icing rpoblem with DG in 1st pleace and being VW, tested their solution unde extreem icing conditions - so somethings not quite right?
If its chucking ice back out, or sleet, then its tryng to work, what you need to look dor is choke blocking up with ice, restricting air-flow - ui.e. choking! this will normally be near choke (haha), i.e. smallest restricton down through intake, the manifold heater itself is more to get good smooth carbuartion under cold condirions, as unlikely manifold itself will ice up before carb choke... make sense? So its its the efficacy of the exh manifold shroud and air pickup for inley you should be looking at first if you're sure she's icing up, rather than just having difficulty smoothly carbing off of idle into progression (acc. pump).
Think about insulating the area somewhat...
No chance area around engine is getting excessively damp in mornngs, big cold metal engine cover, etc. Wtaer collecing asnywhere near intake.. if both exhaust heater and manifold lecy heater working OK, then doubt you shoudl ahev problem as VW would have done all this to solve an icing rpoblem with DG in 1st pleace and being VW, tested their solution unde extreem icing conditions - so somethings not quite right?
If its chucking ice back out, or sleet, then its tryng to work, what you need to look dor is choke blocking up with ice, restricting air-flow - ui.e. choking! this will normally be near choke (haha), i.e. smallest restricton down through intake, the manifold heater itself is more to get good smooth carbuartion under cold condirions, as unlikely manifold itself will ice up before carb choke... make sense? So its its the efficacy of the exh manifold shroud and air pickup for inley you should be looking at first if you're sure she's icing up, rather than just having difficulty smoothly carbing off of idle into progression (acc. pump).
Think about insulating the area somewhat...
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call
1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1