Are these actually mounted correctly? The reason I ask is that the steel loop on the hinges appears to be a stop for a roller and I can't see any way, if these hinges are indeed mounted correctly that you could move those hinges to get anywhere near the stop. My hinges arrived today and ofcourse you can swing hinges the opposite way, at which point that stop starts to come into play. Does anyone have a bona fide photo of them correctly mounted? I've downloaded all the help sheets on this and none of them are clear enough. The photo below (appears on ebay) would also mean that a pin attached to the small rectangular bracket makes contact with the small spring, so much so, it bends the spring in half. I'm baffled.
My father looked at these hinges and suggested that I make a small 'test' box, complete with scaled down seat and back and mount the hinges so I can establish exactly where they are best mounted and also figure out the mechanism before fitting a full sized one and discovering I have to drill holes all over the shop just to get the mounting right. His tip has proved a brilliant idea and may save a few others grief from incorrect positioning. Will be trying it in morning before I waste boards on the real thing but does anyone have a photo of these hinges mounted correctly?
whose hinges are they.....they look different from the JK ones?
ok - test box...be warned that you will need to fix it all down to a solid floor....I made all the rnrbed up indoors....and then theing woulddn't work, as it needed to pull against sommat.
There was no roller IIRC in the JK hinges - the mechanism released somehow by the lifting of the seat to move it from bed to seat and vice versa
Em
x
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
These came from Marcle Leisure and seem extremely well made. Heard some duff reports about JK ones so sourced elsewhere but they seem to be on many vans. Anyway, if no one knows whether they're right or not, I'll plod on.
The Marcle ones I bought seem a bit more ingenious and definately heavy duty but we'll see.
Anyway, the 'test' box is all made. Just need to nip out and look at bolts that will suit the way I'm doing it. Will be similar to one in video above except I'm allowing for a wardrobe on right-hand side this time.
Well, that has to be THE most painful afternoon. A real nightmare making a rear seat/bed from scratch - so many issues, ie will the back of the seat drop down flat with rear floor of vehicle? Do I want it to? Do I raise seat to allow for an extra storage area that covers rear floor? How much do I shave off seat base to allow it to lift in a vehicle that has sloped sides. aggggr!
Anyway to cut a long story short, spent the entire day on it and ended up with a rear seat where passengers legs dangle and their heads scrape the ceiling so some extra cutting required tomorrow, or next week, or next month
CovKid wrote:Well, that has to be THE most painful afternoon. A real nightmare making a rear seat/bed from scratch - so many issues, ie will the back of the seat drop down flat with rear floor of vehicle? Do I want it to? Do I raise seat to allow for an extra storage area that covers rear floor? How much do I shave off seat base to allow it to lift in a vehicle that has sloped sides. aggggr!
i know exactly the feeling, having spent this spring doin exactly the same. Still have to pull the bed at srange angles to work, bt adds to the charm....
I think
CovKid wrote:Anyway to cut a long story short, spent the entire day on it and ended up with a rear seat where passengers legs dangle and their heads scrape the ceiling so some extra cutting required tomorrow, or next week, or next month
You need smaller passengers, my kids are still way off the roof at the moment
I was so knackered, I hadn't the heart to strip it all out and take another 3" off seat height so leaving it for a while. Bit like Bullseye: "Heres what your seat could have looked like"
Eureka. After wasting two 8x4 sheets of MDF, the rock n roll bed is finally in and works. Cut it down almost 5". Clearly needs extra support put in here and there but it does at least work.
My only other question might be is how do you take the flex out of the seat back. Its hinged either end but not much support in the middle for my liking.
I've just bought the JK hinges, but i'm going to fabricate a steel framework to mount them onto, as well as steel frames for the seat and back (a bit like the bluebird customs seats). Should be much stiffer and more secure than the MDF base JK supply. And cheaper. And probably lighter as i can get away with thinner boards, I was thinking of using 1/2" ply.
my son replaced the wood in the seat back for me this summer. he was also concerned about the wood flexing. he bought a long piece of thin, inch wide steel bar (if you see what i mean) . drilled holes in it and each end to fit the hinges and mounted it behind the seat. it seems to do the job.
Thanks, some useful pointers there. I'm concerned that the rear seat should be at least safe under sudden heavy braking, so maybe braced boards will be a wise move. ta.
