Smoking Light Switch
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- windysurfer
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Smoking Light Switch
Whilst on my way to work this morning my headlight switch began to smoke and the dash lights went out.
Took the dasy out and removed switch and at first glance it looks like its the wheel bit (tech term!!) which was smoking.
Now I did replace my dashlight bulbs with LED's about 8 months ago so this whell no longer has any effect so I'm not sure why it's started to smoke.
Could really do with finding out why this has happened as my car is off the road and I need to use the van for work and theres a good change it will be going dark on the way home
Any ideas what to look for when I pop out on my break??
cheers
Gaz
Took the dasy out and removed switch and at first glance it looks like its the wheel bit (tech term!!) which was smoking.
Now I did replace my dashlight bulbs with LED's about 8 months ago so this whell no longer has any effect so I'm not sure why it's started to smoke.
Could really do with finding out why this has happened as my car is off the road and I need to use the van for work and theres a good change it will be going dark on the way home
Any ideas what to look for when I pop out on my break??
cheers
Gaz
Last edited by windysurfer on 06 Oct 2008, 11:54, edited 1 time in total.
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- VWlewis
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I would check the wiring between the switch and the lights - not easy of course but the smoking suggests there is a short to earth causing the switch to overheat as large currents flow through it.
Perhaps the first place to look is around the fusebox and then behind the headlamps for any wires with melted insulation.
Have you done any work on the headlamp circuit - e.g. fitted relays? This would also be an area to check in my experience!
Hope this helps... let us know how you get on.
Perhaps the first place to look is around the fusebox and then behind the headlamps for any wires with melted insulation.
Have you done any work on the headlamp circuit - e.g. fitted relays? This would also be an area to check in my experience!
Hope this helps... let us know how you get on.


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- windysurfer
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I've not altered anything.
The wires behind the dash look OK.
I've now had a proper look at the switch and the bit which has melted is the windings which control the amount of current for the dash lights.
I've also got the dash sat on my desk should I need to check anything on there.
Do you thing the problem lies before the current actually gets to the dash lights or could it be one of the dash LED's shorting out??
cheers
Gaz
The wires behind the dash look OK.
I've now had a proper look at the switch and the bit which has melted is the windings which control the amount of current for the dash lights.
I've also got the dash sat on my desk should I need to check anything on there.
Do you thing the problem lies before the current actually gets to the dash lights or could it be one of the dash LED's shorting out??
cheers
Gaz
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- VWlewis
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Ahhh .. so the circuit that is causing the problem is not the headlamp one but the instrument panel lighting. Have the LED's got a resistor fitted - see here for guidance on resistors http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm
Sound like something is shorting in the LED circuits or no resistor is fitted.
Hope this helps.
Sound like something is shorting in the LED circuits or no resistor is fitted.
Hope this helps.


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- windysurfer
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The LED's have been fitted about 10 months but I don't think there are any resistors fitted.
The coil type thing has melted so the dash light circuit has been broken and the dash lights went out but the switch was still smoking.
I would have thought that if the circuit was broken the smoking would stop?
Or would that make it smoke even more?
cheers
Gaz
The coil type thing has melted so the dash light circuit has been broken and the dash lights went out but the switch was still smoking.
I would have thought that if the circuit was broken the smoking would stop?
Or would that make it smoke even more?
cheers
Gaz
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- VWlewis
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OK Gaz - I would isolate the dimming switch, bypassing it and just wire the instrument panel lights directly then. Dimmer switches are known to breakdown as they get older. You might want to measure the current draw when you connect up the lights (if you have a multimeter) - I would not suggest you should use resistors with LED's or else the LED's will burn out eventually too.
... to be continued!
... to be continued!


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Re: URGENT Smoking Light Switch
Hopefully a short circuit would blow a fuse rather than setting your dashboard on fire!windysurferuk wrote:Whilst on my way to work this morning my headlight switch began to smoke and the dash lights went out.
Any ideas what to look for when I pop out on my break??
cheers
Gaz

Ken
Well-timed silence hath more eloquence than speech.
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The dimmer switch is a variable resistor, the amount of resistance depends on where the contact terminal locates itself on these windings.
The contacts can become tarnished over time, this creates a higher resistance and therefore generates heat.
It might be that there is nothing wrong with the wiring, just that through age the resistor contacts have weakened and tarnished and then overheated the switch.
Martin
The contacts can become tarnished over time, this creates a higher resistance and therefore generates heat.
It might be that there is nothing wrong with the wiring, just that through age the resistor contacts have weakened and tarnished and then overheated the switch.
Martin
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Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep
Brown eyes are lost afar now sleep xxHayleyxx
- windysurfer
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I've got a new switch coming from Syncrospares so I've pulled my old one in pieces and removed the variable resistor so hopefully when I plug it bak in my lights will work without my dash lights.
I've also checked the actual circuit board on the back of the dash and that looks OK.
I've got a multimeter in the van but don't know where to stick it or what to test.
I don't want to put another switch in before knowing what caused this one to melt.
Hopefully it was only the switch overheating
cheers
Gaz
I've also checked the actual circuit board on the back of the dash and that looks OK.
I've got a multimeter in the van but don't know where to stick it or what to test.
I don't want to put another switch in before knowing what caused this one to melt.
Hopefully it was only the switch overheating
cheers
Gaz
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- windysurfer
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Right , just plugged everything back in minus the resistor windings and my headlight work ok with no burning smells.
So does this tell me it was the switch?
I did have a look aound the fuse box and there was no sign of any charred wires.
Can I just not by pass the dimmer altogether?
If so how?
cheers
Gaz
So does this tell me it was the switch?
I did have a look aound the fuse box and there was no sign of any charred wires.
Can I just not by pass the dimmer altogether?
If so how?
cheers
Gaz
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Well I am tempted suggest that you probe around with a multimeter wearing your Mrs Marples hat so you can find the wires/terminals with the variable resistance between them. I would also suggest that when you decide which ones you short them out with an in-line fuse of a suitable value. This way if you got it wrong you may avoid blowing it up. However this all depends upon your ratio of knowledge and ignorance. You can operate at any ratio but tending towards the knowledgable always gives best results.windysurferuk wrote:Right , just plugged everything back in minus the resistor windings and my headlight work ok with no burning smells.So does this tell me it was the switch?I did have a look aound the fuse box and there was no sign of any charred wires.Can I just not by pass the dimmer altogether?If so how?cheersGaz
Cheers
Ken
Well-timed silence hath more eloquence than speech.
"A quiet shy boy who took little part in games or sport"
88 High top 2.1 WBX
"A quiet shy boy who took little part in games or sport"
88 High top 2.1 WBX
- windysurfer
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I've got somebody with a bit of electriacl knowledge to have a look in my Haynes manual and decipher the wiring diagram.(p12.33- haynes 1982-1990 petrol)
I'm going to connect 58 and 58b together using a fuse. This should bypass the resistor and just put my dash light on full all the time.
What size fuse should I use?
I'm going to connect 58 and 58b together using a fuse. This should bypass the resistor and just put my dash light on full all the time.
What size fuse should I use?
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