EJ22

Post by **Pepperami** » 07 Sep 2008, 11:03

I have had a bit of a problem and wonder if anyone can give a little help?
When on constant throttle at 50mph or above ie cruising on a motorway the engine appears to cut out. It doesn't die completely but if you pull in the clutch The rev counter waivers around the 1300rpm mark for a few seconds and it won't accelerate. You then have to wait for the needle to settle at 800rpm and everything is ok again.
The faster you were going the longer it takes to correct itself.
I have checked the error codes and the following errors have popped up.
12-Starter switch (cold circuit)
14-Injector #1
24-Idle speed control valve
I have been through it and checked and tightened all pipes, wires and throttle body.
All fuel injectors are clicking when running.
Any help or advice would be appreciated as we had a few worrying moments in France.
Cheers.

Post by **jamesc76** » 07 Sep 2008, 12:46

Did you do the codes with engine running or off???? As if it were off i would look at inj No. 1, Tho as you describe it sounds like some cack in the fuel lines and its blocking up untill theres less pull on the fuel and blockage falls out ???

Post by **Pepperami** » 07 Sep 2008, 12:57

Cheers james. I checked them with engine off and ignition on. Not too sure where crap would come from as everything new.
Which is injector #1? as you look at it from the rear. All are clicking rising and falling with revs.

Post by **jamesc76** » 07 Sep 2008, 13:15

Dunno which is No1 think plug leads has numbers on them if there scooby ones mine are aftermarket race jobbies so no numbers on mine now ! The blockage could be anything ??

Post by **markscoot** » 11 Sep 2008, 08:23

Havin your fair share of problems with that motor arnt ya?

First thing,change the fuel filter. Did a motor yesterday that had similar problems,filter was full of crap. This comes from petrol stations with grotty tanks.They never clean em out,so the crap and sediment builds up,when they run low,you get some!

Post by **Pepperami** » 11 Sep 2008, 08:35

Cheers Mark yep a few problems but it is a really good learning experience. I want to be able to do a lot more myself and eventully when it comes to it prep and replace a new one.

Post by **CycloneMike** » 12 Sep 2008, 05:39

The cylinder numbers should be cast on the top of the heads and easily visible .

Post by **Pepperami** » 15 Sep 2008, 16:35

I was recommended a really good mobile mechanic. It turns out that there was no earth strap on the ECU. No fault codes, more responsive and oil and filter change for £50. Jobs a goodun.
Apparently some of the conversion specialist in the US say that it can take just as long to get everything set up perfectly as it does to bolt everything together.

Post by **jamesc76** » 16 Sep 2008, 11:34

Pepperami wrote: Apparently some of the conversion specialist in the US say that it can take just as long to get everything set up perfectly as it does to bolt everything together.

I defo concur on that one took me much longer sorting out all the wiring etc than it did bolting and welding mounts up!!!!

Oh by the way did you get your loom ready made from rjes???? Bit bad if no earth on it for the ecu!!!!

Post by **markscoot** » 16 Sep 2008, 17:01

It is not usually necessary to earth the casing if the black/ red wire and yellow/red are well earthed.The Kenedy wiring diagram stresses the importance of these and engine straps. I would strongly suggest you look at the gearbox earth strap and engine earth one to make sure they are good. It is possible for the starter to nuke the ecu if these are poor.
I have bolted my ecu down with a plain metal bracket to the body inside the right hand cupboard anyway. Was yours not bolted to the metal body?
Cheers.

Post by **Pepperami** » 16 Sep 2008, 17:25

Mine is bolted to the inside of my R&R bed so bolted to wood. The earth strap is a shiney new one and looks good. Cheers.

Post by **Flightpath** » 19 Sep 2008, 00:07

When fitting the new set-up, the van received brand new increased width and thickness braided earth strap from gearbox to chassis as the original had disintegrated. I am fully aware of the ground issues that Subaru's suffer from hence making sure that every ground is cleaned fully, connector and chassis or replaced with new.
I must admit that RJES Looms do not have as many earthing points as the Kennedy loom and maybe its a note to be made that after a period of bedding in and the resistance rises on earth points due to corrosion this causes failure if the ECU casing is not directly connected to ground.
All electrical ground points on a vehicle should be tip top, If not then you could get bad charging and poor performance from any item!

Post by **jamesc76** » 19 Sep 2008, 11:00

i did my own loom using the kenedy diagram and i added more earth's than it needed plus brand new gearbox earth and 2 engine to chassis earths plus the earth for the ecu goeas to the engine and the chassis !!!!

Post by **ermie571** » 19 Sep 2008, 12:00

jamesc76 wrote:i did my own loom using the kenedy diagram and i added more earth's than it needed plus brand new gearbox earth and 2 engine to chassis earths plus the earth for the ecu goeas to the engine and the chassis !!!!

Wow - that's alot of earth...

Em
x

Post by **Pepperami** » 19 Sep 2008, 16:47

After the initial shake down period everything is hunky dory. It may have seemed that there was alot wrong. There wasn't, its just that every little thing i posted due to being a numpty. I have learned alot about my bus in this period. The two local mechanics that have seen the engine have both said that it looks like a very good conversion. I would recommend Paul (flightpath) to anyone wanting thier bus converted to Subaru.

Also i would like to wish Paul best wishes for his wedding on Saturday.

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