Timing a DJ !

[ELVIS]

Might sound stoopid but can honestly say i have not done the timing on a car for 10yrs and then it was with a manual infront of me!

2.1 DJ. timing, point out any fcuk ups!

Notch on front lip of bottom pulley is TDC , notch on back lip and to the right as you look at it is 10' BTDC.
Cylinder #1 is front right as you stand at rear bumper and goes to 'back right' (nearest bumper) of dizzy.

Disconnect the two plugs on DIS and plug together. (and unplug/block breather)
Disconnect Vacuum advance and block/plug.

Then do the funky timing/strobe thing! Line up my little white tipex line on the 10' BTDC in line with the split on the crankcase like you would a bug.

Righto , IF i have not fcuked it up WHY-O-WHY-O-WHY-O-FCUKING WHY is my timing screwed ? If i set it to factory , when i open the throttle it dosnt so much as bog down but not do anything for a while before it picks up/throttle opens a while. Before i timed it , it ran nicely but the tipex mark was WAYYYYYYYY to the left/under dizzy.

*update-just ran out to van*
Dizzy is Bosch 0 237 022 053(vw 025 905 205N) . Baxters tech list shows DJ as 'Bosch - 0 237 022 054'.

reckon ive hit the nail as it were ? anyone know what my dizzy is off and would it cause me my problems ? I understand the jist of the vacuum advance (when i suck on pipe you can see plate move BTW) but would the gubbins inside be significantly different to fcuk me up the chuff ?

cheers Elvis

[kevtherev]

couple of things That struck me
unleaded fuel would require a timing change (5deg)
whereas super unleaded would not (10deg)

are we assuming the mixture is set ok?

[ELVIS]

cheers kev for quick reply.

Only run it on Super
However......................

The mixture is well out! Have put another post up somewhere.
Since buying it i have had to
1-Put in air filter (missing)
2-Change plugs and gapped them properly(one was hanging out and in by only a few threads) and gapped to about 3metres!!!!!!!!!!!! (ok at LEAST 0.8mm)
3- changed ECU temp sender (for piece of mind)
4-Taken off and cleaned Throttle body and ISV
5- new leads/cap/arm
6- reset the throttle stop/butterly opening gap
7-one injector was literally hanging out(enough room yo get a small screwdriver down side of inner seal into head!) -now sorted!
8-checked compression ( 3 x 160 + 1 was 155ish)
9-vacuum on dizzy checked - 20ish max)
probably a few other things i forgot but all made engine run better. It is still running with a slight judder.

back to initial Q , Plugs are blacker than a witches t*t and it smells of petrol. There is evidence of it being fiddled with (the metal/plastic anti tamper plug on top of AFM is missing)

you reckon if mixture was set first , the timing would then be able to be set ok?
(closest matching dizzy i can find on vagcat is same number but finishes in an H not an N. from an EY code 1.9)

[syncrosimon]

I think that the main cause of rich running is the ecu temp sensor, but also the pressure regulator can cause these symptoms, if it is supplying more than 30 -psi to the injectors, then you will have rich running. Ken simmonds made a home made tester to check his, and the regulator is the same as the old fi sciroccos and golfs etc.

Mine ran rough until I changed the ecu temp sender.

I think that the ecu overrides any adjustment in the AFM, at full throttle especially, I time by ear now, I have it as advanced as possible, where it doesn't pink on full throttle. Seems to work, but am gonna have her rolling road tuned on Wednesday by TSR. I will be very interested in the torque and BHP figures.

My DJ really really really does prefer super, and there is a noticeable smoothness with the better petrol.

I still have an intermittent judder, just at very low revs, where you have the meerest whiff of throttle, it sometimes does this, and sometimes does not. It makes you get the clutch in to stop it. It does this about half of the time, dont know why, just does, something electrical I suspect, or a worn AFM.

[ELVIS]

cheers Si. replaced sender tonite just before i packed up so no really time/distance on it.
think im gonna get it taken to a tuning shop for CO/timing done and see what happens.

[Aidan]

205N is correct dizzy for a DJ, twin vacuum unit yes ?
over fuelling could be lack of vacuum to fuel regulator allowing overpressure of fuel side.
What's the idle speed ?
Is the throttle contact switch working correctly, ie continuity at idle and full revs only, open circuit rest of time ? If not then ecu doesn't bring in idle stab system, and peeps then turn up the wick to get them to idle on their own, and bypass the idle unit like you did when timing it often, but if stab valve not working might not bother
does it have ps or aircon ?

[ELVIS]

Hi Aiden!
Throttle contact switch was checked as per Bentleys. Have not got a tacho but engine speed sounds 'right' after i did all the stuff above.(doesn't race/fluctiate anymore) maybe 900rpm ish?)
Dizzy is a twin unit. Put a vacuum meter on the line that goes from throttle to dizzy (i am guessing the regulator uses same signal) and it was 20 ish . sound about right?

no PS/aircon

[Aidan]

I'd be suspecting AFM signal, maybe flatspots/track corrosion, ECU doesn't know it's getting the air in so can't fuel right ? Also if no temp1 signal it will run in limp mode, I'd also check the injectors for leaks and spray pattern, but I guess you did that when resealing the loose one.

AIDAN with an A ffs

[KarlT]

While we're on the subject of 'rich running'............

If your co2 levels are within limits (2.5?) is it impossible to be running too rich?

[KarlT]

Then do the funky timing/strobe thing! Line up my little white tipex line on the 10' BTDC in line with the split on the crankcase like you would a bug.

Hold on. You only line the notch & the join up on static setting. With a strob on tick-over you need to be 5d's ahead (11o'clockish).

That's right isn't it!