Tips for removing rust around side panel windows
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Tips for removing rust around side panel windows
Bit of a rust novice.
Have acquired Eastwoods Rust Disolver as recommended on the wiki.
Any tips on getting windows in and out an dealing with the rust?
Have acquired Eastwoods Rust Disolver as recommended on the wiki.
Any tips on getting windows in and out an dealing with the rust?
2430
- amazingdave
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Hiya,
Any chance of a piccy of the offending window (especially the seal)? After market windows fitted to panel vans are often held in with a hard plastic "wedge" in the middle of the seal which needs removing to get the window out.
Factory fitted windows are harder to get out as they are more effectively bonded with a bead of sealant, which means they don't tend to attract the tin worm as badly....
Plastic windows are fitted in a variety of ways, some are clamped by screws on the inside behind plastic covers, some are bonded in like factory fitted windows...
The rust needs sorting in a nice warm, dry garage, I used the hammerite straight to rust primer (flesh coloured) on a van a few years ago and that worked well with undercoat and topcoat over the top. Let the paint harden well before refitting the window. Get some sikaflex for refitting the windows, very good marine grade adhesive sealant.
A heavy duty suction cup (dent puller) is handy for confidence with the window juggling.
Good luck!
Any chance of a piccy of the offending window (especially the seal)? After market windows fitted to panel vans are often held in with a hard plastic "wedge" in the middle of the seal which needs removing to get the window out.
Factory fitted windows are harder to get out as they are more effectively bonded with a bead of sealant, which means they don't tend to attract the tin worm as badly....
Plastic windows are fitted in a variety of ways, some are clamped by screws on the inside behind plastic covers, some are bonded in like factory fitted windows...
The rust needs sorting in a nice warm, dry garage, I used the hammerite straight to rust primer (flesh coloured) on a van a few years ago and that worked well with undercoat and topcoat over the top. Let the paint harden well before refitting the window. Get some sikaflex for refitting the windows, very good marine grade adhesive sealant.
A heavy duty suction cup (dent puller) is handy for confidence with the window juggling.
Good luck!
dg 1.9 14" syncro Fire engine/camper.
- andylekker
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hi, i have rust appearing below a couple of my side windows - not that bad yet and i would like to deal with it before it gets worse.
questions -
is it essential to remove the window to do a proper job? - the rust goes right up to the rubber so is probably under it too.
if i do remove the window can i re-use the rubber seal? - it looks in quite good condition, the rubber hasnt perished yet - they are certainly not the original seals.
ive read the wiki on removing windows etc - any other tips on the job that anyone would like to share with me?
many thanks
andrew
questions -
is it essential to remove the window to do a proper job? - the rust goes right up to the rubber so is probably under it too.
if i do remove the window can i re-use the rubber seal? - it looks in quite good condition, the rubber hasnt perished yet - they are certainly not the original seals.
ive read the wiki on removing windows etc - any other tips on the job that anyone would like to share with me?
many thanks
andrew
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Whatever you do, don't leave it for a couple of years like I did.
ended up taking most of the panel out when I grinded it.
Now on my second window and quite enjoying it, and not too bad for an office boy whose never been under a bonnet.
I would take the rubbers out etc and properly grind the rust down. I got a cracking anti rust paint from Frost (its on the wiki on the bit about repainting your van - its superb, miles better than other stuff I tried in general shops etc that don't work).
I bought new rubbers from sealsdirect.co.uk who sell it by the metre - loads cheaper than just Kampers - I bought the tool for fitting which I think you will need.
I would think to do it properly you should really do all of that.
I can send you detail of the anti rust paint and rubber sizes if you need it.
One problem I did have that I will put a post on is that I ended up with big wrinkles on the rubbers on the inside corners - not sure how to get round that one - not sure if you have to glue then down to the window.
ended up taking most of the panel out when I grinded it.
Now on my second window and quite enjoying it, and not too bad for an office boy whose never been under a bonnet.
I would take the rubbers out etc and properly grind the rust down. I got a cracking anti rust paint from Frost (its on the wiki on the bit about repainting your van - its superb, miles better than other stuff I tried in general shops etc that don't work).
I bought new rubbers from sealsdirect.co.uk who sell it by the metre - loads cheaper than just Kampers - I bought the tool for fitting which I think you will need.
I would think to do it properly you should really do all of that.
I can send you detail of the anti rust paint and rubber sizes if you need it.
One problem I did have that I will put a post on is that I ended up with big wrinkles on the rubbers on the inside corners - not sure how to get round that one - not sure if you have to glue then down to the window.
2430
Re: Tips for removing rust around side panel windows
Johhny G wrote:Bit of a rust novice.
Have acquired Eastwoods Rust Disolver as recommended on the wiki.
Any tips on getting windows in and out an dealing with the rust?
See crinkle window rubber post!
cheers
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88 High top 2.1 WBX
- andylekker
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Johhny G wrote:
I bought new rubbers from sealsdirect.co.uk who sell it by the metre - loads cheaper than just Kampers - I bought the tool for fitting which I think you will need.
thanks!
they look good - do you remember or does anyone know which ones are the correct fit? (and length?)
i need to do the sliding door window and the other side window behind the sliding door.
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I think the ones I got were 5mm window and 3mm panel.
They will help you
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/shop ... rtmentId=4
The products I bought were WR63, F572 and GT75
Not guaranteeing they would be right for you, but seemed to do the job (wrinkles apart)
They will help you
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/shop ... rtmentId=4
The products I bought were WR63, F572 and GT75
Not guaranteeing they would be right for you, but seemed to do the job (wrinkles apart)
2430
- DivingDaisee
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These guys have a some good intructions for taking out and putting back in the side windows...
Look under window seals!
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/bbCM ... 9#section6
Not sure about having the "butt joint"
at the top of the window though
Isn't it best to have this at the bottom to prevent rain water working it's way through
This site deals with boats alot so it may be to stop the sea/river water getting in. Any thoughts
For those searching for info about rubber window seals the afore mentioned wrinkled (crinkle) rubbers link is here - https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... ow+rubbers - took me some time to find it!
Which brings me to another question...Having the locking strip (aka filler strip) on the inside of the vehicle (as suggested in the wrinkle post) seems like a jolly good idea. Does anyone know of a reason why it shouldn't be done this way
Thanks
Look under window seals!
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/bbCM ... 9#section6
Not sure about having the "butt joint"




For those searching for info about rubber window seals the afore mentioned wrinkled (crinkle) rubbers link is here - https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... ow+rubbers - took me some time to find it!

Which brings me to another question...Having the locking strip (aka filler strip) on the inside of the vehicle (as suggested in the wrinkle post) seems like a jolly good idea. Does anyone know of a reason why it shouldn't be done this way

Thanks
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1966 Volkswagan Beetle 1300 (now 1600cc)
DivingDaisee,
You wrote.......
The rescue helicopters I worked on (in the mid '60's) had their passenger windows fitted with the locking strips inside. They had a loop of tough red coloured fabric around the strip near one end, the idea being that you could pull on the fabric loop and then quickly tug the locking strip out, to release the window in an emergency, (ditching for instance).
Apart from bored passengers pulling on the releases and causing the locking strips to begin to come away, no problems. Windows were perspex in alloy skin.
Mike
You wrote.......
Which brings me to another question...Having the locking strip (aka filler strip) on the inside of the vehicle (as suggested in the wrinkle post) seems like a jolly good idea. Does anyone know of a reason why it shouldn't be done this way
The rescue helicopters I worked on (in the mid '60's) had their passenger windows fitted with the locking strips inside. They had a loop of tough red coloured fabric around the strip near one end, the idea being that you could pull on the fabric loop and then quickly tug the locking strip out, to release the window in an emergency, (ditching for instance).
Apart from bored passengers pulling on the releases and causing the locking strips to begin to come away, no problems. Windows were perspex in alloy skin.
Mike
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